This is where the noobs ask ?s, right? :P

Below is some backstory, but feel free to skip down to the basic question at the end, which I’ll make bold.

Ok, so I taught myself to knit last weekend. I thought I was making a scarf at first, but somehow it wound up being about 4.5 feet across, so I’m calling it a blanket now. :slight_smile:

When my project was about an inch in length, I saw that I had messed up some early rows. At this point, I didn’t want to unravel all that I had done, as it had taken quite awhile to get to where I was, and I decided I’d rather have a few screwups than start all the way over. I’m using size 5 needles, so it’s a really tight weave and 282 stitches across (I counted later :P). Also, I started out with straight needles and the process of tightly winding the project around the needles as I knitted (to keep it from being too long for the needles) was also making things take awhile. (I just went and picked up circular needles today, so it’s much easier going now).

Now that I’m further along, and don’t seem to have screwed up in about 15 rows :woot: , I’m wondering about the following:

[B]Once finished with my project, can I tink from the starting end to undo all the early rows with mistakes? If it makes a difference, I’m just using the basic knit stitch all the way through. [/B]

[B]Thanks in advance for your help![/B]

Wow, I hope you’re using thin yarn, a medium one is going to be densely knit on size 5s. And however did you get that many sts on straight needles - good thing you discovered circs. You can actually make a scarf, just knit for about 6-8" and then stop.

But to answer your question - yes, you can undo the cast on or cut a stitch in it, and rip out the rows you want to do over, though you may have to pull the yarn through the edge sts I think. It may be easier to cut a stitch at about the point where things started to go right for you, put the sts on the needle and reknit it the other way. When you start knitting again, make sure the bumpy side faces you so you get the garter stitch looking right where you begin again. Or if it’s only an inch, just undo one more row (after you cut the first part off) and do a bind off on that edge too.

LOL, no, I’m actually using a medium yarn, and yes, it’s very dense. And I had the same thought about just changing the width to the length and making it a scarf, but by the time I had the thought, I was attached to the blanket idea.

Thanks for the information about undoing the start!

I just started exploring info about different ways to cast on. I used the single cast on “the blanket.” In viewing the knit cast on, I’m starting to realize I’m not using the knit stitch at all. I really have no idea what I’m doing, LOL. I don’t think it’s a purl stitch either. Both sides of what I’ve knitted seem to appear the same to me. What I’ve been doing is entering the pre-existing loop from “the top” or right to left if you think about it that way, and I’ve been putting the needle behind the other needle. Then, I wrap the yarn counter clockwise around the needle before pulling it through the pre-existing loop. Anyone happen to know what stitch that is? :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m attaching a pic from awhile back in case anyone happens to be able to visually identify it.

Hrmm… looked at some pics of different stitch types before posting it and mine looks like moss stitch, I think. (knit, purl, knit, purl, etc…) But, I’m just doing the same thing over and over on every row, so I don’t get it…

Right that’s what happens when you knit every row, you get garter stitch, a stich [I]pattern[/I]. What most people think of as ‘knit’ is called stockinette stitch which results when you knit one row and purl the next row, then alternate them. The back of a knit st looks like a purl since it makes a bump and the back of a purl stitch looks like a knit stitch, the V. If you pull your work down from the needle you’ll see the knit Vs between the purl bumps.

When you get bored with garter stitch, you can alternate a purl row between knit rows. I’d suggest you always knit the first and last 5 or 6 sts on the purl row though or the edges will curl up. When you switch from knit to purl, move the yarn between the needles instead of over them. Moss stitch is when you k1 p1 then in the next row, knit the st that looks like a purl and purl the st that looks like a knit. There’s videos for that and ribbing on the Tips page under Basic stitches.

Oh, and for future reference this yarn would use a US 8 (5mm, is that where you’re getting the 5 from) or a larger needle for a blanket.

Thanks so much for all the info suzeeq! I saw some patterns that had knit stitches at the end of the purl rows, but had no idea why, so that’s good to know.

The needles are US size 5, 3.75 mm. And yeah, I really wish I had started with larger needles so this wasn’t taking quite so long. I’ll know for next time!

Oh! And speaking of different needle sizes, I’m thinking of getting a set of circular needles with interchangeable cables. If anyone has some that they’re particularly fond of, I’m open to suggestions!

Also, any thoughts on needle materials? Metal vs. wood?

You can get the Knitpicks Try it set, there’s 3 needle sizes in the 3 different materials - metal, wood, acrylic. That will give you an idea which you prefer. I don’t have a set, I started buying needles 40 years ago and I don’t use needles smaller than 9s so most of one would be a waste for me. I find I like different material with different yarn, wood is good for slippery yarns because it ‘grabs’ the sts, metal is slicker and generally good all around but especially for ‘sticky’ yarns, and acrylic or plastic is in between.

My Knitpicks nickel plated circulars are all I use anymore. :thumbsup:

“What I’ve been doing is entering the pre-existing loop from “the top” or right to left if you think about it that way, and I’ve been putting the needle behind the other needle. Then, I wrap the yarn counter clockwise around the needle before pulling it through the pre-existing loop. Anyone happen to know what stitch that is?”

It sounds like a twisted knit stitch. Take a look at the video for knit st under the Free Videos tab at the top of the page. Usually your right needle should go into the stitch from [I]left to right[/I]. It won’t show in garter st where you knit every row but if you knit one row and purl one row alternately (stockinette st), you’ll see the twist. The twisted knit st is also tighter on the needle than a knit st.

The blanket is looking good in a good multi-color yarn. I wouldn’t worry too much about errors at the beginning right now.

I have the Knitpicks Harmony Wood needles and love mine. For the future: a fingering weight yarn would go with needles size 1 to maybe a 3. Baby sport goes from a 3 to maybe a 7 tops. Sport weight is a 3 to maybe a 7. Worsted weight is a 7 to maybe a 9. I suspect that’s what your current yarn is. A bulky is about a 8-10 1/2. Anything above that is superbulky and would best be knit on size 11, 13, or above. Look at the yarn label. It will give you a weight and a suggested needle size. It will have a number inside a ball of yarn. #1 or 2 for fingering, #3 for baby and sport weights, #4 for worsted weight, #5 for bulky, and #6 for superbulky.

:grphug: Thanks so much to everyone! Y’all are a super helpful bunch! I’m sure the information about the twisted knit stitch will save me some confusion and wasted time in the future!

Bulky’s a bit tight on 8 or 9s. Better with 10½ or 11.