I think you could undo the toes, rip back to where the toe decreases started, then knit another inch or two straight before starting the toe deceases again. I’ll bet if the sock was a little bit longer the toe would feel okay.
I learned this the hard way … with socks I never take the toe down to the # of stitches the pattern says…in fact I barely taper mine. My last pair I did take down to 8 stitches on each needle and had to unknit my kitchener stitch and open the toe up to about 12 socks on each needle and redo my kitchener. One of these days I knit a pair of socks and not have to rework them 5 times.
Sounds like you’ve been given some good advice. I would undo the toe, rip back and go from there. I tend to start my decreases about 1 3/4 before the end of my big toe, but my other toes are quite slanted. Are his smaller toes slanted? Are they more rounded? Is his toe next to his big toe longer than his big toe? All things to take into consideration.
Nana, take a look at the thread in General Knitting “Pointy Toes (A Sock Rant)” that’s been running the last couple of days. I posted some information on “Joan’s Favorite Toe”, a very comfortable and roomy toe!
Yes, this toe is roomier than the regular “decrease every other round” toe because it is shaped more like a normal foot than the standard toe decreases.
You can frog back and rework the toe on your sock. You will start the toe decrease when the foot of your sock reaches about the base of the big toe, no more than 1/4" past. If your stitch gauge is on the larger side, the toe will be about 2" long from the first decrease to the tip. If your stitch gauge is on the smaller side, the toe will be about 1 5/8" long from the first decrease to the tip.