David, just to be clear. The decreases in the pattern [I]are[/I] the decreases that they’re talking about. After the 3x decreases, there should be instructions to “knit plain” or “knit even” in the armhole meaning without the armhole decreases. You should be doing just the one k2tog or p2tog at the armhole edge on each row.
Can you link to the pattern?
So - I’ve typed this out, before I begin so I get to the requisite number of sts, does this look right based on the pattern above?
Armhole edge = odd rows
Neck edge = even rows
1st row K2tog, K35, P6, C4F, P3, turn. 49
2nd row K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2 sts, P2tog. 48
3rd row K2tog, knit to last 15 sts, K2tog, P6, K4, P3. 46
4th row K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2 sts P2tog. 45
5th row K2tog K2tog, Kx, P6, C4F, P3 43
6th row P2tog K3, P4 K6, pur to last 2, P2tog 41
7th row K2tog K2tog, knit to last 15, K2tog, P6, K4, P3. 38
8th row P2tog K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2 sts P2tog. 36
9th row K2tog K2tog, Kx, P6, C4F, P3 34
10th row K2tog, Kx, P6, C4F, P3 33
11th row K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2, P2tog 32
12th row P2tog, K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2, P2tog. 30
13th row K2tog, K2tog, Kx, P6, C4F, P3 28
14th row K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2 sts, P2tog 27
Continue without shaping until armhole measures same as Back to beginning of shoulder shaping, working last row on wrong side
Armhole edge = odd rows
Neck edge = even rows
No they’re edges and there’s an edge on both the odd and even rows.
Starting with row 5 do not do a dec on the armhole edge, only the neck edge. If you continue to dec on the armhole it will look like the V neck and after 4 rows of decs it should be straight up - look at the picture. The neck decs will also only be every other row, and you have them on every row.
Lets try it another way -
1, rs - dec, work across
2, ws - work across, dec at end
3, rs - dec at beg, work across, dec, cable sts
4, ws - cable sts, purl, dec at end of row
5, rs - knit across, dec, cable sts,
6, ws - cable sts, purl
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until you have 36 sts. Then only dec at the neck edge every 4th row on the RS.
If you could link to the pattern, that would help us make sure you’re interpreting it correctly.
Here’s the pattern, scanned and shrunk to the the tiny size allowed here …
Ok thanks. See where it says to dec at armhole edge every row 3 times? Those are the only decs you do at the armhole edge; that will be on rows 1, 2, and 3, there is no dec at that edge on row 4 for your size. It’s okay if you do it just the first time, one stitch may not matter, but not after that.
Do not do the k2tog at the beg of rows 1 and 3, or the p2tog at end of row 2 after the first time. Just do the decs at the [I]neck edge only[/I], every other row, beginning with row 5. Then work the sts as they appear though, stockinette on the outer edges, dec on RS row, then the cable pattern at the neck.
I’m now hopelessly confused 
<chuckle> I wish I could draw it out for you… At least you’re still happy. Let’s try some detail for you.
row 1 - K2tog, K35, P6, C4F, P3, turn.
row 2 - K3, P4, K6, purl to last 2 sts, P2tog.
row 3 - K2tog, knit to last 15 sts, K2tog, P6, K4, P3.
row 4 - K3, P4, K6, purl to end of row
row 5 - knit to last 15 sts, k2tog, P6, C4F, P3, turn.
R6, K3, P4, K6, purl to end of row
R 7, knit to last 15 sts, K2tog, P6, K4, P3.
R 8, K3, P4, K6, purl to end of row.
Repeat rows 5 - 8 until you have the 36 sts, then do the dec every 4th row. By the time you get that far, it’ll be easier to see than trying to work it out on paper or in your head.
you know what? in some ways patterns would be easier if they were laid out on graph paper, yes?
gawd!
thanks to all for their help and support!!
:woohoo:
:yay:
:knitting:
You’re right and some patterns are charted, even for decreases. Believe me, the charts have their own problems. You could chart this pattern out if it would help you visualize the decreases on each edge, neck and armhole.
Many people do chart out the decreases on patterns that have cables and lace. It is easier to see that way. Glad the light dawned for you…
OK - so I’ve got down to 36 sts and I’m confused which decrease(s) to drop off so that “then in every full 4th row until 27 sts” is done correctly.
I arrived at 36 sts the row after the row with the CF4 instruction (so that’s rows 2).
It’s only the neck decreases you’re working with at this time you finished the armhole decs a while back. Instead of doing them every other row as you have been you do them every 4th row. So mark the last dec at the neck, then on the 4th row after that do another.
I’d just like to stand on a big pedestal and shout to the world that the experts on this forum are the world’s nicest people. In particular suzeeq whose worth her WEIGHT in gold!
To one and all, a Merry Christmas.
David from Sydney
xoxo
I couldn’t help with this so I knew Sue would have your answers.
So now I’ve cast off and have to do “the mirror image” for the other side of the vee neck.
The Pattern (verbatim):
1st row - P3, C4F, P6 knit to last 2, K2tog
2nd row - P2tog, purl to last 13, K6, P4, K3
3rd row - P3, K4, P6, sl 1, K1, peso, knit to last 2, K2tog
4th row - P2tog, purl to last 13, K6 P4, K3.
BUT I’m slightly confused exactly which decreases to knock off to make it the same (but mirror) as before, advice appreciated.
On the first 3 rows you would do the ones at the armhole edge and the one on Row 2 which is the neck edge - purl to last 15 sts, p2tog and work the cable stitches. The p2tog on R 4 is at the neck edge and you keep that there.
BTW, you can do all the decs on the RS row, no need to do purl decs at all. Reverse shaping just means to work the decs at the other edge, it doesn’t have to mean you work them on the other side (as in RS/WS).
Just a note from my personal experience that you might/might not find helpful. When I work two fronts (or sleeves, or pockets, or…) I work them at the same time. I cast on with 2 balls of yarn or work from both ends of one. Then when I work a decrease on one side, say for the armhole, I work the matching decrease when I work the other side. If I have a decrease at the arm and neck on the same row, I will be able to do the matching set on the second piece and don’t have to keep track of where I am and when did I do this way back on the first piece. Bonus: if I make a mistake and don’t catch it until later I at least have matching mistakes and sometimes they don’t really matter that much as long as the two pieces match. Here’s hoping you or someone might find this helpful. :clink:
Suz, thanks. Grumpy, good advice
Hey Grumpy - actually, the cable was the easiest part of the process really. Keeping the vee neck on track was much more difficult.
Where can I get this pattern?