Tension issues


I have come across a problem I never had before and the mind boggles as to how to solve it. I am knitting Ursula by Kate Davies and the swatch requires 30 sts and 38 rows on 4 inches.
I first swatched with 2.75 mm as indicated by pattern and got 4inches on 38 rows but 3.15 inches on 30 sts.

So I moved up a needle size, so now on 3mm I get
4.5 inches on rounds count but 3.75 inches on sts count.

I think I should go with 2.75 mm and perhaps knit one size up but keep the length of the the size I was going for, would that be the right thing to do?

Really not sure and hope i can get can help.

Thank you

If making a larger size will work, then you can do that, but it’s more important to match the stitch gauge than the rows. You should also make a swatch that’s larger than 4", so casting on 36 sts and measuring across the 30" in the middle after you’ve washed and dried it will be more accurate. With your stitch gauge being so much smaller, the fabric may be denser than needed in the pattern, though it’s possible the yarn will relax after blocking and you’ll be closer to the gauge for the stitches.

Thanks Suseeq
Both my swatches measure 6 inches, they have both been washed and blocked and dried and they were steeked at the back ( as the swatch needs to knitted in the round)It has a total of 67 sts and I am using the same yarn as recommended with pattern, which is jamieson and smith 3 ply.

I have decided to make another swatch on 3.25mm to try and match count closer but worried that ths might be too big at this point, especially on row count.

Next time you can fake an in the round swatch without cutting… CO about 10-12 sts more than you need, knit the first row then slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle, leave the yarn loose across the back and knit another row.

I meant to mention that the row gauge can be fudged easier because most patterns will have you knit to a certain legth - x inches, not y rows. So you just knit to the measurement given regardless of the number of rows.

Yes, the stitch gauge is more important to achieve. The 3.25mm is worth a try even if the number of rounds is off. You can always adjust the pattern, perhaps by deleting a repeat of the thistles motif.

I just had a thought - did you do the swatch in one color, or in the color pattern? The colorwork is going to make a little tighter gauge than a single color. Also, it wasn’t really necessary to do the gauge in the round as everything but the sleeves is knit flat, and even they might be. You might want to do a flat swatch then, knit on RS, purl on WS to see how that affects your gauge.

Thank you. 3.25 mm is now hitting the prescribed tension for sts gauge. Too big or row gauge but that should be ok.
The swatch gets knitted in the round as does the cardigan, it is then steeked on sleeves and front openings. Many of Kate’s designs are knitted in this way. It was knitted in colourwork.

Oh, yes sometimes with colorwork you do knit a tube and steek it. Good luck on this project, it looks pretty nice.