Me too - that’s what I’m using!
Another magic looper here! I ML everything even when I have the correct cable size, lol!
DONE!
The gray/tan threads are 10 row markers.
The red thread in the seed stitch area is marking row 100.
The red threads in the buttonband are marking where the buttons will be sewn, and correspondingly, on the Right Side, the EXACT ROW on which to work buttonholes.
I am going to make 5 buttonholes.
Rows 55, 77, 99, 121, and 143. They are 5" apart.
I’m doing 5 because I want my coat to close farther down.
Where the 4th button would be is just too high up I think.
I will leave all of these threads in the LEFT FRONT until I am ready to block the FRONTS and BACK.
The row markers ensure that the RIGHT FRONT will be a mirror image of the LEFT FRONT. And the BACK raglan armhole shaping will be a mirror image of the FRONTS.
BTW: the neck shaping for the LEFT FRONT has about 11 short rows. The directions say, for example: work across the row up to the last 6 st/wrap&turn/knit back. Well, I tried the wrap & turn on all the RS rows, but I didn’t like the appearance of the final row 11 wherein you are supposed to clean up all the wraps. So I unraveled all 11 rows…back to Row 146 last plain row worked…and I worked that first short row like this: work across the row up to the last 6 st/turn/knit back. In other words, I didn’t wrap. I just turned around and knit back…no wraps. I must tell you, there are no holes. You have to be sure to snug the stitches…but it works! I can’t claim the idea. Elsebeth Lavold says this in one of her recent books. I think I was knitting VIVECA. She says if you keep the stitches snug, you won’t have holes! I was working short rows for the shoulder shaping of VIVECA. Like it’s not a big deal. Not too many short rows involved anyways.
My first attempt using the W&T for SYLVI tonight, I was trying to remember Cat Bordhi’s video on short rows wrap&turn method that hides the wrap on the pickup wraps row…but I couldn’t. It was just a horrid mess. And I do think this neckline area will be[B] very visible[/B]…[U]and it must be perfect[/U]. No messy row eleven for the ‘clean up wraps’ if you decide to do the wraps. Look up Cat Bordhi’s video. Her method is really cool. I just didn’t want to go in and look it up. I woulda if PLAN B didn’t work either.
So my PLAN B for the neckline shaping worked out just fine. Just thought I’d mention it.
My coat seems like it will hit me just above the knee. If it stretches as some claim SYLVI does, then it might could come down below my knee.
I am good with that. I have a ‘mid-calf’ coat already.
“GROVE”…knit last Spring. Malabrigo Merino, color: natural.
Mastering short rows: wrap & turn and concealing the wraps by CAT BORHDI. Excellent videos!
PART ONE:
PART TWO:
Oh, this video on Wrap and Turn is so very very interesting. Thank you Artlady, once again. Has Cat Bordhi made any knitting videos yet? It is obvious that she has an intimate knowledge of how stitches are formed, understands the knitting process extremely well. Kudos to her for sharing her knowledge! (even though I agree that her presentation can be a bit annoying…it’s worth suffering through it for the knowledge she imparts).
Your coat is coming along beautifully. What an artistic achievment this will be when done!
Hi D…I am finally here…I am still waiting on yarn…but following you closely here…and may I say…I want to be like you !!! See you on Rav, too!
hugs, Lorna
Woodi~ Just GOOGLE the Cat Bordhi name. She has lots of short, informational knitting videos for free on YOUTUBE! Whoot!
I spent a long time the other night, watching and listening to her videos on YouTube! When you watch one video, several other offerings are listed on the right hand side of the screen.
It is mesmorizing. I felt like Tarzan, swinging from vine to vine in the jungle!
I just couldn’t help myself! :teehee:
I actually downloaded my favorites to my RealPlayer Library.
I think if I’m offline, (off-the-grid in the mountains), I could play them using my RealPlayer software, couldn’t I?
I like her because she’s so slow and methodical in her teaching. It is those annoying analogies and stories that she includes in her dialog that REALLY DRIVE THE LESSON HOME!
She has a gift!
So, Artlady, is the back next for you? Or the right front? Did you decide about putting a flower motif on the RF?
I am taking a break from Sylvi (I wanted you to get ahead of me and it looks like it worked!) and working on Dashing. I should be done by tomorrow night so I can start the LF! :happydance:
Just jumping in for a moment to tell you about the yarn over short row. This is a method someone showed me recently and there are no wraps to hide. Essentially, you make a yo after you turn and then when you knit back, you correct the mount of the yo on the needle and knit it together with the stitch. It looks much tidier to me than the regular w&t method.
There’s a good explanation of it here:
http://nonaknits.typepad.com/nonaknits/2005/04/yarn_over_short.html
OK–Jumping back out to LurkLand now. 
[B]Thanks Marria!!![/B] That was a great link! THREE types of yarn overs techniques! I am gonna give it a try with the neckline short row shaping for my RF! :happydance:
[B]Laikabear~ [/B]I’m working on the RF now while I have my “Fronts” mojo rollin’. The BACK will be my special treat, a reward for suffering through the SLEEVES and CUFFS, and the endless seed stitch of the FRONTS! :roflhard:
I dunno what happened to my vine, leaves, and flower for the RF. It’s not too late to frog back. I am only on row 9 of the RF. BTW, the short rows to correct that buttonhole band BUMP are worked on rows 4, 8, 12, 16 on the RF.
I’ve been totally sleep deprived since last Thursday when the dog fight occurred. I mean, I normally sleep SOUNDLY and without disturbance from 3am til 9 am…but I do need those undisturbed 6 hours. I sleep like a log. But, Blue’s recovery has thrown that off by a mile. The drain is out now, so last night I went to bed at 11pm (!), put a blanket on the floor, and tied him to the leg of our bed. I slept straight through from 11pm til 5 am. So here I am, in my office, talking to you, with Blue tied to the arm of my chair on that blanket! He likes to be where I’m at, and he busts out of the kitchen barricades all the time now since he’s feeling more houndy. 
Now that I got my 6 hrs sleep, I havemore mental energy to go out to my knitting place and tackle the RF flower issue! I just totally forgot about it I think! :??
Over at Rav: I stumbled upon a cabled pullover hoodie (designed by the SYLVI designer) called Green Cables #28 Vogue Fall 2008 issue that I would love to do next! It has a GROUP, too. In rummaging around in my Stash Notebook at Rav, I couldn’t see any yarn on hand that will work. It takes about 1400 yds of bulky (3st=1"). And although I have enough of the Rowan POLAR (winter white) for it, I’m not feelin’ a hooded pullover in winter white. I’m envisioning a saturated color, like dk gold, dk green, tobacco brown!
Anyway, I’m on the Stash Train…and should continue to visit YARN JAIL and parole yarn who’ve served their time for my 2009 projects…:roflhard:…so maybe later Green Gables! 2010 is right around the corner!
I made a buttonhole ‘swatch’ as an experiment for buttonhole modifications, and also, to see if my 1.75” button would fit through a buttonhole that is essentially just one yarnover in width. (it does)
I cast on 12 stitches to add 6 seed stitches on the other side of the buttonhole band.
So here are some photos that demonstrate the 3 buttonhole placement options.
The bottommost buttonhole on the swatch is the p3/k1/ssk/yo (per pattern) buttonhole.
The middle (2nd) buttonhole is p2/ssk/yo/k1/p1.
The top (3rd) buttonhole is p2/yo/ssk/k1/p1.
Buttonholes #2 & #3 just trade where the yo is.
Also featured are photos that show how the button looks when buttoned into the 3 buttonhole positions.
I’m liking buttonhole#2 the best. I don’t like my buttonhole to be inside the field of seed stitch.
I prefer it within the buttonhole band itself. Just personal preference.
Above: Swatch showing 3 buttonhole positions
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#1
(per pattern: p3/k1/ssk/yo)
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#2
(p2/ssk/yo/k1/p1)
Above: Buttoned into buttonhole style#3
(p2/yo/ssk/k1/p1)
I prefer the middle one as well. makes a better fit for the button.
I am well on my way to my first sleeve. Unfortunately my computer is still being repaired and I only have the laptop an d cannot post pics, but soon.
I did a seed stitch cuff, slightly different from ArtLadys. I cast on 41 stitches using the cable cast on, which gives a nice firm edge, and did 16 rows of seed stitch using a size 11 needle. Then I switched to size 10 and knit one row followed by a purl row. This created a turning ridge for the cuff. I then continued the seed stitch pattern.
Today I was thinking about the “order” of things and wondering if there is a benefit to doing the back first. The back is the pattern and while there may be a bit of wiggle room I would hate to do the front sides and then have trouble matching the back length wise…
That’s a good point, Ginny.
Your point is something to consider, for those whose row gauge is way off, which is usually shorter row gauge, not taller.
It could go two ways:
[B]a)[/B] Knit the BACK first, and surprise! It’s 5" shorter than the schematics. So you knit the FRONTS to match if 5" shorter is ok with you. Or, frog the BACK down to the bottom edge and re-work it for more length after you’ve knit the FRONTS to determine just how many additional rows you need to add to make the coat the right length for you.
-OR-
[B]
b)[/B] You knit the LEFT FRONT first, and surprise! It is 5" shorter than the schematics. So you un-do it down to the armhole shaping, and add inches to the body. Then add the same inches to the BACK charts.
I think :think: those are the two scenarios that could present themselves when trying to decide what to start first, FRONTS or BACK.
But I am tired right now, and need a nap! I might not be thinking it through right. :??
I’ve got that one in my queue. I fell in love with that pattern the second I saw it in the magazine.
Well, I did some math… :thud:
I am getting 21 sts to 4", not 16. Therefore, instead of the 39" listed in the schematics, my coat’s length will be 29" if I don’t make any modifications… That’s a big difference!
Measuring down over my back, 39" hits around knee length (same as on the model). 29" actually hits mid butt. Um, NO! I’m thinking 35" would be nice. To add 6" to my 29", I will need to add 32 rows. Where in the fronts would you add rows, if you were going to do so? What about the backs?
I’m going to deal with this dilemma by casting on for a sock.
:teehee:
No, seriously! What should I do?
PS, I am glad to hear Blue is hanging in there and feeling houndy again! I did some volunteer work in NC with the bear hunting dogs and I saw some horrific injuries and incredible recoveries. There is no tougher beast than a hound dog!
You need to do some serious measuring in the armhole region. My coat came up short overall, and I’m sure my armhole region was also shorter, but for a shortie like me it didn’t matter. My armpits are begin choked.
For yourself, the entire coat from hem to neck needs to be addressed.
Write out a line by line, play by play of the instructions for your LEFT FRONT size. See how many rows that will involve when you have accomplished all your decreases and such. I think my LF from hem to neck was 146 rows plus 11 short rows for the neckline shaping…total 157.
If “xx” stitches are involved from the armholes up to the neck…then you can calculate how much too short the armholes will be. Filter in the right amt of extra rows in there.
Then put the rest of the rows interspersed from the hem to the armholes.
When you’re done with that LEFT FRONT, and do a mock try-on. If it seems to be fine in the armpits, and hits your leg where you like, you are ‘good to go’ for adding those extra rows in the BACK.
Warning: if you added 12 extra rows to the armholes and 20 rows from the hem to armpit, do the same for the BACK. 12 for the raglan area, 20 for the body.
Some gals over at the Rav SYLVI group are doing this. For the BACK, there are places that you can add 2 extra rows at a time without disturbing the peace! For example…this is just an example…when you’ve knit RS row 31 and WS 32…BEFORE literally going up the chart to rows 33 & 34, repeat rows 31 & 32. Call them 31a & 32a. Chart rows that are vines are easiest, but some gals were also adding rows to the leaf rows.
It will be challenging, but not impossible. Good for you that you did that math and checked your lengths compared to your bod! 
Oh, I remember now…why I decided to make plain seed stitch FRONTS: I am going to make some sort of patch pocket. It sounds horrid, but I won’t use them if they look cheesy.
And IF cheese is all I can get…then I will knit some flower petals and leaves and i-cord vines and tack them onto the fronts like this lady did:
The knitter’s Rav name is livnletlrn.
These photos were on her blog that she linked in the Sylvi Group under the FO’s. These flowers, vines and leaves were definitely knit separately and tacked on later. I’ve done the same thing with a couple of my own knits.
OK, so I was confused. I thought it wasn’t okay to add rows in the armhole area. Was that just for the sleeves? I thought you had to match up any extra rows in that area with sleeves, fronts AND back!
If I can add some rows in the armhole area and some below, I can just do the same number above and below on both the fronts and the back.
I really like that blue Sylvi. It’s my favorite so far. I like the design on both the front and the cuff, and I didn’t realize it was put on after! So we can do both our fronts plain, and then tack on extras later if we want. :woohoo:
I noticed she did buttonhole version #3. It looks fine on the jacket in the photos, but in looking at your sample I definitely liked #2 better. I think I’d like it with the button band a little wider, even. But I don’t want to go crazy :hair: with mods. I’m not very experienced and I think that the closer I stick to the pattern, the better off I’ll be.