So here is my left front, finished yesterday. This went surprisingly fast.
I made it plain, without the buttonband, for I want to do those “chrocheted loops over buttons” thingies.
Hi Anna~ Looks positively wonderful! :cheering: You have a very pretty seed stitch!
So I am way far behind everyone because of work, school, kids and the flu, but that’s ok 
I did get to work on Sylvi yesterday quite a bit though.
Anna - your seed stitch is perfect. It looks great. I like the idea of the button loops.
Karina - you are brave I bet yours will come out beautiful.
Not to worry evona, I too am dismally behind as well. I planned on spending most of the weekend on it, as it was my Firehouse weekend. Unfortunately we had one call after another and I didn’t even get much sleepl.
I’m behind, too. Or not ahead, anyway 
I have two cuffs knit, and one sleeve knit up about 25 rows.
[B]ArtLady[/B] - Can you help talk me through the sleeve, since you’re my (runty) height?? (5’ 0") - did you say you didn’t add any rows to compensate for row gauge in the ‘shoulder shaping’ area? Does that mean you knit from that armpit “bind off 7” to the shoulder [U]just as written[/U] for your pattern size?
I am getting about 20 rows per 4" as I knit the sleeve in the round, so I guess that would effect the shoulder shaping quite a bit, as the chart says that portion (top of the sleeve) would be 11.25" from the one dot to the top? Mine would be 9" ?? But it works out okay to have a slightly shorter cap/connecting area and to do the length adjustments elsewhere?
Also, did you say you did all the length adjustment before the increase part, then knit the increase part as written?
If I measure … (boy is measuring your arm awkward!)
my neck to shoulder: 5 inches
shoulder to elbow: 12 inches (down outside of arm to outside of elbow bend)
outer elbow bend to wrist bone: 9"
shoulder to wrist with arm hanging straight: 21" (phew, that SHOULD match, right?)
wrist at heel of hand to armpit: ~19"
I need to figure out when to start the increases on me, and whether or not to try to adjust the rows for the connecting zone.
sorry I don’t know all the right terms. I had to look up raglan when people kept talking about it ~blush~ I thought it was a style of sweater until now. But I get it now, shoulders that go up to the neck to fit in to the body, rather than connecting at the shoulder.
See my answers above in [COLOR=Blue]BLUE[/COLOR] caps.
For short-armed me, I did do the caps just as written, with the exception of adding two additional ‘even rows’ just after the BIND OFF 7.
Remember, I made about 4 sleeves to come up with 2 good sleeves!
Our row gauge did affect the sleeve cap length, but for us, that should be OK. It was for me!
However, I still needed to take away quite a few inches between the cuff and where the increases begin. As soon as my increases were worked, I was ready to do one round even and then work the BIND OFF 7.
Let me know if you need any further clarification. No question is bothersome. Please don’t be shy.
Hi there all Sylvi Knitters! :waving:
No one should ever feel they are behind! Everyone knits at their own pace, and as their personal life allows! So, keep knitting away! You are right ON TIME! I admire all of you!
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I have worked Chart Rows 1-74 for the BACK. Made one modification regarding those dang bobbles.
I did not make them as a part of the row. I just did seed stitch over all the bobble areas. After I was done with all the rows that woulda had bobbles, I made 3 darling bobbles independently, using Nickie Epstein’s bobble pattern from “Knitted Embellishments”. I secured the 3 bobbles through the coat using their two tails. I tied them into bows on the back, just until after blocking the BACK. I will remove them before blocking the BACK. Then I will attach them permanently.
Why did I make mine independently? Because I didn’t like the loosey-goosey appearance of the ‘knitted-in’ bobbles, and I didn’t like how the bobbles were affecting the surrounding area. By making them separately, I could use a US10.5 needle, and make them nice and neat and tidy.
Here they are:
And here is how they are temporarily bow-tied in the back:
Here are Chart Rows 1-74:
My coat isn’t this yellow, but the evening lighting affects the camera.
Here is how I am keeping track of sections of 10 seed stitches on each side of the complex, centered cable region.
Critical to keep track! Count stitches on both the RS and the WS. Unexpected things happen along both RS and WS rows.
On the WS, you don’t always just knit the knits, and purl the purls. So take care!
ArtLady, I am in awe of your skills. Awe. :notworthy:
:notworthy:
I’m not participating in this KAL, however i have been watching daily.
OMG Artlady, when I saw your pic, my jaw hit the desk. I want to be like you when I grow up.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.:notworthy:
Thanks for the bobble tip Artlady! I think I will be doing my bobbles like that too. I like the way your bobbles came out much better.
And thanks everyone for the inspiring pick me and letting me know I am not behind 
I’m watching and learning, too … along with the 5,000 other KHers reading these posts! You are all making such beautiful coats!!
When time comes for you to do your bobbles: if you have a hard time finding a suitable bobble formula, please message me (PM) and I will send you a good bobble formula. 
Here is a photo of an adorable pocket that knitwitmom shared in the Ravelry SYLVI group!
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/knitwitmom/sylvi
Here is how she did it (I modified her wording for clarity):
[COLOR=Blue]I cast on 6 stitches for the pocket’s top ‘rim’.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue] I used the same instructions for the left front edge (k3, p2, k1) until it was long enough for me to pick up 18 stitches along the edge like you do for the sleeve cuff. BO.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]Then pick up 18 stitches from the pocket rim and knit down from there. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]I did the bobbles on rows 10 and 12 .[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]Begin decreasing to round the bottom corners of the pocket (1 stitch each edge) on rows 24 and 25. BO.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]For the flowers, I used the small flower pattern but used a size 8 needle so that the flowers would be a bit smaller to fit on the pocket.
[/COLOR]
[FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]I’ll make my bobbles separately. I’ll also tinker with a different pocket top rim. I don’t think I’ll personally make a rim separately that needs binding off, and then picking up stitches to knit down for the actual pocket. I’ll make my pocket as a whole unit, and wider.
[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]But we do get the idea! However you make your pocket, adding the flower and bobbles is adorable, isn’t it? [/SIZE][/FONT]
I found a hat to go with it!
That is looking fabulous, Artlady! I prefer the look of your bobbles too. I finally cast on for my left front last night, but I think I am going to frog back a little and add some extra short rows due to the button band growth issue.
FYI: There is an error in the chart for the BACK. It is a small error, and you’d all prolly catch it like I did.
RS CHART ROW #123…the ssk decrease is missing from the end of the row. I mean, the chart symbol [COLOR=Blue][B][/B][/COLOR] for the ssk is missing. But you can tell by the next rows above that you should work the ssk at the end of row 123, just as you worked the K2Tog at the beginning of the row for the raglan shaping.
I’d get out your charts right now and take care of it.
I have a sleeve measurement question …
looking at the increases for my size (L), it looks like they cover 25 rows, which at 4 rows per inch (pattern gauge) would be 6.25 inches in length. Then you do the BO and start the shoulder shaping, which looks like for the L is 46 rows and 11.5 inches.
Now since I’m getting 5 rows per inch, I would only get 5" of length thru the increases and 9.2" for the shoulder shaping.
If I knit 11 inches pre-increase (as the pattern states) then at the end of increasing I would have 11 + 5 = 16" sleeve to under my arm. Then adding the additional 9.2" shoulder shaping, the sleeve length from neck to wrist would end up being ~27.5"
When I measured my arm, from wrist to armpit was about 19" if I went snug up to my armpit. Measuring from neck over shoulder down to wrist was about 23"
would a 27.5" sleeve from shoulder to cuff be too long?
But if I were to shorten it before the increases, that would make the armpit a lot lower (closer to the elbow) - already (by my calculations, I have only knit about 8") it’s 3" down from my armpit.
I’ve never knit a coat or sweater, so I have no idea where the roominess falls. Does my projected measurements (16" to armpit, plus shoulder shaping for a 27.5" total length arm) sound like they’ll fit okay when it’s all put together?
I hope you could follow all that. I’m trying to calculate things in a spreadsheet but I keep getting mixed up with all the different measurements and the two gauge columns and some parts of the pattern being in inches and some being in rows …
If your neck to wrist measurement is 23", and if the sleeve itself measures 27.5"…the cuff will fall just below the middle of your fingers. And, allowing for the fact that they say this coat stretches southward, those sleeves could end up longer than that when worn. The short answer: yes, 27.5" is too long.
I know you are thinking that by shortening the sleeve in the pre-increase region will pull down the armpit area.
Not so. It will pull UP the cuff from mid-finger area.
Why?
The raglan area is attached to the coat. The 9.2" length of the raglan area dictates where the armpit is located.
The shorter pre-increase region cannot pull the armpit down. The raglan area, which includes the BO7 row, determines where the armpit is. The only thing that will draw up the BO7 is by removing rows from the raglan area.
You stated a measurement of 23" from neck to wrist. I hope you measured from neck over shoulder down the outside of the arm to wrist.
Do you want your sleeve to stop at your wrist bone? cover your wrist bone?, extend 1"? 2"? past your wrist bone…this is the length your sleeve should be.
I went for 2" past wrist bone. Not one smidge more.
Shorten your sleeves pre-increase. If the directions state work begin increases when the sleeve is 11.5"…then you will start your increases sooner.
Thank you SO much - It helps me to understand the why as well as the what 
and what you said makes so much sense!
I will have my daughter help me re-measure my neck-shoulder-arm-wrist, just to be sure.
So what I want is the {neck-over-shoulder-past-elbow-to-outer-wrist-plus-1"-or-2"} measurement minus the {9.2" shoulder and 5" increases} (14.2")? – right?
Slugmom~
I dug out my notes for the Left Sleeve and here is what I wrote:
PU39 along top of cuff; join in the round, place marker.
Continue seed rounds til entire sleeve incl cuff measures 10". (40 rounds)
Rnd 41: begin increases each side of marker
Add’l inc rnds: every 6th rnd 4x’s more: Rnds 47, 53, 59, 65 (49 st)
Continue even til 15" (67 rnds total)
[B]SHAPE CAP[/B] BEGINS as follows:
Rnd 68: BO7 (42st)
Rows 69-75: even
Row 76: begin cap decreases> dec 1 st ea end. (40st)
Add’l dec rows>every 4th row 8x’s: Rows 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108 (24st)
Add’l dec rows> EOR 7x’s: Rows 110, 112, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122 (10st)
Put 10 st on waste yarn.
I always write out/lay out, a ‘work order’ (like the above) prior to knitting the sleeve. As I knit along, I circle rows/rnds as I accomplish them.
By using the yarn row markers I always know what row I’m on.
No guesswork. I’m bad at clicking my row counter. I try to use it, but when in doubt, I can always fall back on my yarn row markers to tell me where I am REALLY at.