Sweater help.

Hi. I am working on a sweater for my husand and really need some help, I have only knitted 1 other sweater with raglan sleeves and it was knit frm the top down. I need help understand what the left and right raglan and neck parts mean.
This is the pattern

If anyone can help translate this it would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Nice looking jacket. What part of the pattern are you working on?

I need help with the raglan and neck shaping for the left and right side. I’m confused by how it is written.

I’m doing this all as seamless as possible. I casted on all sts for the left panel, right panel and back. I have gotten to the step to where I need to do the raglan for all pieces, however as I am trying to make this as seamless as possible I am wondering if I can get help figuring out how to do the raglan decreases with (hopefully) live stitches for the sleeve to be knit on. This is from the bottom up.

Ah, I see. You’ll have to bind off sts for the underarms and then cast on sts for the sleeves (maybe including the sleeve bind offs at the underarms). A provisional cast on would work best since you’ll need to pick up those live sts to knit the sleeves down to the cuffs.
Once you have all the sts on a needle (front, sleeve, back, sleeve and front) place markers at the joins between sections and follow the pattern of decreases. You should check the frequency of decreases for main body and sleeves before doing this but it should work out. I have to admit I’m just thinking this out. I’ve never done it this way.

That is how I was thinking of how to do it, but wanted to see if someone else had any other ideas or was thinking the same thing. As far as the raglan decreases go and placement of the sleeve, I am doing the men’s medium- 48" chest, so should I bind off 46 stitches on each side for the sleeves then do a provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a holder until ready to knit the sleeves? I am having trouble also, figuring out how many to bind off on the right, left and the back on each side. IN the original pattern since it is done in pieces and seamed up, it says to decrease the front left and right panels on each side. Should I just keep the bind off for the sleeve, cast on stitches then after putting the live stitches to a holder- knit the amount for the right panel, k2tog before marker, pm, ssk, knit sleeve sts, k2tog before marker, pm, ssk, knit back sts, k2tog before marker, pm, ssk, k sleeve sts to last 2 k2tog, pm, ssk, k the left panel? Or do I still need to do the bind offs on the button band sides of the left and right as per the pattern? Sorry if that is confusing.

This is bottom up, right? The bind off for the back is 5sts at each side at the armhole. The bind off for the fronts is 5sts each front at the armhole. You would therefore bind off 10 sts on each side at the armholes.

So you would have the right front-10sts bound off-back-10sts bound off-left front. On the next row do the provisional cast on of 46sts at the 2 gaps.

(You don’t have to seam this sweater so you could consider binding off 8sts at the gaps if you took the lack of seam sts into consideration when you cast on for the entire sweater.)

Yes, it is bottom up. I thought the 5 stitches were for the armhole, but because it is supposed to be all separate panels I wasn’t 100% positive on that.
Sorry for asking, maybe this is stupid, the 2 gaps you’re referring to are the arm holes, right? I understood everything until the 8 stitches and gaps.

Yes, the gaps are the sts bound off for the armholes. They are the equivalent of the notches that you see in the schematics where 5sts are bound off on each side of the back or on one side of each front.
Ask away, It’s better to put several heads together on this than to knit without some planning. See if it makes sense to you.

Ok, thank you. One more question before I start the decreases though. From what I am reading, for the left and right raglan/neck shaping, it has the right side with 2 extra stitches instead of being equal to the left.
Right side
Continue in St st, dec 1 st at raglan edge every row 0 (0, ** 2**, 4, 6, 8) times, every other row 12 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15) times, AT THE SAME TIME, when raglan measures 8 (8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2) in. (20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm), end with a RS row.

Left side
Bind off 5 sts for raglan edge, k to end of row 15 (18, 20, 23, 25, 28) sts. Continue in St st, dec 1 st at raglan edge every row 0 (0, 4, 6, 10, 12) times, every other row 12 (14, 13, 13, 11, 11) times, AT THE SAME TIME, when raglan measures 8 (8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2) in. (20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm), end with a RS row.

I tried to bold the parts I am referring to. Are they supposed to be uneven or are they supposed to be even?

It is also uneven where it has the numbers after “every other row”

Yes, maybe they got confused with making corrections to the various parts. I don’t see a reason that the 2 fronts should differ. Since the Left Front agrees with the Back raglan shaping, I would go with that for the Right Front (4dec every row and 13 dec every other row.) The sleeves are also different but that may seam up ok.

Ok, thank you very much. As per this comment, I am slightly confused as I was supposed to bind of 10 on each side for the arm holes are you suggesting to bind off 8 instead of 10 or is there somewhere else I’d need to bind the extra 8 off?

I was just thinking that if you considered the extra 2 seam sts when you cast on (cast on 2 fewer sts at each side because you don’t have a seam), then you would only need to bind off 8 at the armhole gaps.

If you just cast on the given numbers in the pattern for back + fronts, then go ahead and bind off 10 at the gaps.

Oh okay. I hadn’t taken the seams into consideration so I did the full amount for the cast on. Thank you for your help, it’s very appreciated. Hopefully I won’t need any more help. :smile:

If any of us can be of help we’ll be happy to. Enjoy knitting this jacket!

btw, I sent an email to Lion Brand about the differences in the raglan shaping. I’ll report back when I hear from them.

Oh good, I had sent an email to Lion Brand once I seen the differences a few days ago, so hopefully they edit this to be corrected. Once again, thank you.

I am confused by a couple other parts in this pattern and also, how to make it work with my making it almost seemless, barring the pockets.
So the first part that is confusing me, since the numbers for left and right raglan& beck shaping don’t match up, is that I don’t know if I should do the 9 inches of raglan and then bind off the last 3 stitches on the sides as per the pattern OR if I should continue the raglan until 10 inches have been done, as per the back…?
The second part is, if I am calculating this right , I should have 52 stitches after the raglan if I continue for 10 inches on R & L sides. I only need 50 sitches so I can do a live cast on for the hood instead of binding off and picking up again. I am not 100% sure if I have calculated this right though.

Can your husband try this sweater on to check the length at the armholes? Maybe that will help you figure out the best length although an inch is not so much of a difference. If not, the longer length might be better since this is a loose sweater anyway.
Even if you’re picking up the same number of sts for the hood, I would still bind off. That seam gives some stability to the neck. Ultimately, it’s your choice however, so you can change the pattern as you wish.

Lion Brand sent a nice reply and they are correcting the pattern soon:

http://www.lionbrand.com/lby_freedownload/download/link/product_id/101121/