Swatches - another question added

When you make a swatch, do you bind it off, break it from the rest of the yarn and then measure? Or can I just make the swatch, pull it off the needle and measure, and then frog it so I can reuse the yarn?

ETA: I just finished my swatch. It’s still unwashed & unblocked, but it’s measuring 4 x 4.5 and it’s supposed to be 4x4. How will that effect (affect?) my tank top?

I frog it and reuse it. But, maybe I’m not supposed to do that…I never thought about it before. :??

Well I’ve done a billion projects (ok, maybe 20 or more) and never even done a swatch before!!! lol But I’m getting ready to start on my first shirt and want to make sure I’m w/in gauge.

well from what I read the optimal swatch is at least 6" square, bound off, blocked, dried, and measured in the middle of the swatch.

I’ll leave it up to you. Prolly depends on how critical it is that it fit: a scarf isn’t ctitical but a sweater is.

Good luck. I just made a sweater/coat that is exactly to gauge and the blasted thing is too big for me!!! :crying:

Unless it’s a yarn that must, must be washed and blocked, I reuse it. I haven’t found that binding off makes much of a difference. Most of the time, if I’m familiar with the yarn, my sleeve is my swatch. :oops:

Since I’ve never used this yarn b4, I guess I’ll do the swatch the right way. TY, everyone!!!

you need to measure the stitches in the middle of the swatch. Lay a ruler on the swatch and count the stitches that fall within 2 inches. For example,
if the guage is 13 stitches in a 4x4 swatch then there should be 6.5 stitches/two inches or 3.25 stitches/inch.

Try to lay the swatch naturally, not pulled in any way, and measure as honestly as possible. (half a stitch, quarter stitch?)

The stitches/row is the most important part. If the number of rows is more or less, then you can add a few more/less rows–this is the length of the sleeve/front/back of the garment and can easily be adjusted.

here is an article for you