Street Cap k1xp1 120 st -- How to choose decrease st's

I have made many caps and end with the k10 k2tog - k9 k2tog etc, etc ad nausium. Thought I would change to another pattern, but…

How do I find another type of decrease that looks smoother and not so puckery on top? How do I calculate pattern of decreases using 120 CO? FYI k1p1 rib for 2"; then st st for 4.5 inches using guage of 5.5. I’m looking to make smooth transition.

I’m ready to start decreases, but don’t know how to calculate or how to make sure the decreases end properly on each row using some yet to be determined pattern. Looking for suggestions.

Thank You all for your help in the past and again with this issue :shrug: .

Well 120 is divisible by 10 so you could still do k10, k2tog, etc… To make it rounder on top w/o the puckers I usually put two rows even between decreases for the first 3 decreases then start putting one row till I get to about k3 or k2, k2tog then I do it every row. Keep in mind that you are adding to the height of the hat when you add rows between.

This could vary somewhat based on yarn, needle size, tension etc, but it should help.


Thanks for the addition of 2 lines between rows to stop the pucker. That will work and is a great idea, but I’m looking for another type of decrease not the k2tog. Have never used any other and am looking for one that looks smooth without puckering. I think whatever I use the two line between will help smooth.

What decrease would you use other than k2tog. I dont have any experience with other decreases and how they look.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated,


I believe that k2tog is the smoothest and all the left-leaning decreases are more rough. Would doing a centered double decrease be what you’re looking for?



It sounds like a double decrease would look the way I’m thinking. Last night I tried 2 ssk side by side. the right side looks ragged but the left looks nice, so I assume the double is one that would work.

How do I do a centered double decrease that looks good on both sides? I’m taking the decreases apart and waiting for your direction.


what if you did the SSk and K2Tog side by side
they will slant towards each other

I think this is right


I’m sure at least one of these is centered, maybe both: slip 2 kwise, k1, pass the 2 sl st. over

or, slip 1 kwise, k2tog, psso

Try googling double decrease… I also think Sara’s blog Let me Explaiknit has a good post or two about the mechanics etc. of how the different decreases work in depth.
Remember a centered double decrease is not the same as two separate decreases. A double decrease, as you see above, turns 3 stitches into 1 (decreasing two stitches in the one stitch… if that makes sense). Again, Sara’s blog explains things really well.

If 2 ssk side by side looks good on one side, how about a ssk next to a k2tog? Maybe the k2tog on the right, and the ssk on the left side? This would just be two single decreases, though.

I say try a swatch with different decreases - maybe a baby hat or one of chunky/bulky wool?


Jan, Ingrid, Sara,

I appreciate the time you all spend/spent helping me with the decrease issue.

Jan - your double rows between really made the difference -tks

Ingrid - your suggestion of ssk & k2tog did it (cept I put them backward) -tks

Sara - Using your suggestion of Sarah’s blog, that explained what Ingrid and you’all told me and much more. I’m sipping tea and reading it after I write this and before I begin another cap - tks

I have finished the cap (all of your suggestions were on point) but I need to frog it all, since it is too big for my daughter. 120 CO #5 USA looked right but was too big for her… It fits me perfectly-who’da thunkit! I try to knit new athletic caps yearly and this year #1 daughter is compeating in triathalons, while my youngest son wrestles in college. I can du it up in 1.5 nights so it is not a problem and I really enjoy knitting. Again

Thank YOU all.

FYI I cant read patterns very well at all, just does not work in my head. I guess it is a brain dead-thing, I keep trying.