Stitch markers

So, my mom gave me a big gift certificate to a local bead store that I never ended up using and I realized today that I could use it to get materials for stitch markers.

So I was wondering, what should I know about making my own markers? how big should the rings be? what works best?

I made my first set of stitch markers a few weeks ago for the Winter Wonderland Swap. It took me a few tries, but I got the hang of it. I think the size of ring you want depends on what size needles you plan to use. There is a great post started by the artlady1981 called custom stitch markers.

She gives great tips and ideas and even a tutorial on how to make them.

Pretty good instructions here:

I hope I don’t offend anyone b/c that’s not my intention, but could someone explain the need for these kind of stitch markers? Maybe it’s b/c I’m still a new knitter, but I’ve just used contrasting yarn tied around the needle.

Because they’re pretty. :slight_smile:

and sometimes it’s nice to have a stitch marker that’s a little heavier.

i have not ventured out and bought/made any fancy stitch markers but i have seen some on etsy that are lettered, which i think would be nice for patterns that need mulitple markers for different parts of the pattern

Newbie, some types of knitting, lace knitting, for example, requires several differently marked markers. There are different types, from the little plastic ones, to beaded whole rings, to some that look like hooks. If you want to get really fancy, you can make them with Swarovski crystals from a bead shop. I priced doing that yesterday, and it’s much less expensive than I thought.

For anyone who wants to mail order the components to make your own, try this site, they’re wonderful and have great customer service. When I told the woman what I wanted to make, she got all enthused and told me about her latest knitting project.

In my current project I used a piece of contrasting yarn at the start of the round but woven in and out of the fabric. Since I was knitting cables in the round I would flip the end of the tail to the front side on the “front” row, and flip it to the back, with both tails to the back, on the “back” rows. This helped me to keep track of when I needed to cross my cables because I never cross on a back row, but sometimes the back row looks like a front crossing row, but the real front rows don’t look like crossing rows unless they are. This way if I left my knitting for a while I could tell at a glance if I was on a front or back row. Every 2 inches or so I pulled the contrast strand out and laid it across to start over so that it didn’t get woven in so far that it would be hard to pull out. I hope this all makes sense to someone besides me.