SOS first time knitter stuck on end of pattern

so im pretty sure you all know about the buttercup beret.
ive been knitting for a month or so, and this is my first hat. maybe i was in over my head i realize its not perfect.

but i really need help im stuck on the last row of the chart.

i dont understand how she got from 10 stitches to 4 outta knowhere.

i really dont understand how to end this and break off the yarn i really dont get that.

i would appreciate all help.

=] a girls gotta learn somehow
so i hope my questions dont sound too dense

Can you post a link to the pattern?

its a PDF you have to download

http://www.sweetsassafras.org/2008/01/10/buttercup-beret-free-knitting-pattern

=]

sure will

OK, so let me answer your second question first. You asked about breaking off the yarn and ending the pattern.

According to the pattern, you’ll have 16 stitches left when it’s time to do that. By “break”, all it means is that you cut the yarn. You can then thread it onto a yarn needle, and then you thread it through the 16 stitches and pull it tight to cinch it up. If you look closely at the photo on the page where you got the pattern, you’ll see that there is a tiny hole in the very center of the hat–that’s where the yarn was pulled tight. You can then bring the yarn through the hole, and weave it in on the inside of the hat. When you cut the yarn to do this, make sure you make it long enough to weave through the loops and weave it in.

For your other question–I am assuming when you say 10 stitches to 4, that you mean for one repeat of the pattern on the chart and that you are referring to row 51. Although as I look at the chart, it looks like you go from 12 stitches to 6.

The reason so many stitches disappear is because within one pattern repeat you do three double decreases (the sl 1, k2 tog, psso). So each time you do that, you go from 3 stitches to 1.

Hope that helps!

Thank you so much for the breaking off help! I really appreciate it

But to do with going from ten to 4. your saying its 12 but if you line them up you end up with four and your supose to end up with 16 now yes 4 times 4 equals 16 but i really dont get how she suddenly got to four.

I guess getting help on the internet is hard for a visual learner.

I have messed this pattern up so many times i probably just messed it up again which is really frustrating.

i’m not about to do this again if im wrong
=[

It can be hard to explain things in words that would be easy to show someone! :eyes:

OK, I looked at the chart, and it looks like you repeat each row four times. So I am a bit confused as to why the last row shows six stitches. I am sure there is someone here though that can explain that.

But even so, the same idea applies. You’ve got double decreases which can decrease the number of stitches really quickly.

I wonder if there is some ghetto little quick fix

haha this was my first time with cables and there pretty janky

thank you so much for your help

yeah i dont get it.

not even my neighbor whos been knitting for 66 years can figure this out

I’m guessing sooner or later, someone on Knitting Help will come to the rescue! :slight_smile: There are a lot of great people who know a lot about knitting here.

I really hope so!

SOS PEOPLE!

i have a camera is people need pics or videos of my disaster

Actually, if you could post a close up picture of the part of your hat you are having trouble with, that might help the people here to help you figure out what’s going on.

Hi, I’ve looked at the pattern and done quite a bit of thinking and figuring. I don’t think you have done anything wrong, Destinylove. According to the way I read the chart that when you finish round 50 you have 10 stitches in each segment, and there are 4 of them for a total of 40 stitches. They will all be K1, P1 all the way around at that point. Then on the next round you are supposed to work 3 tog, P1, work 3 tog, P1 and that is all it shows, but that only handles 8 of the 10 stitches and it doesn’t tell you what to do with the last 2 exactly.

What it may mean for you to do is work 3 tog, P1 all the way around ignoring the dividing lines between the sections. If you did that it would turn out even and you would end up with K1, P1 all the way around presenting itself to you on the next round. But… you would not have 16 stitches but 20.

I think that is what I would do (unless you want to contact the designer, for which there is a link at the pattern site). After round 51 you would have 2 choices of what to do next. Either decide 20 is close enough to 16 that it will be fine to end it there, in which case you would end off as Marria described above. Or… work one more round either knitting 2 together all the way around or purling 2 together all the way around, which ever you think would look the most like what needs to be there. Then you would have 10 stitches and you could cut and run the yarn throught the stitches a couple of times at that point.

Either way I think would work fine. It is just a matter of choice. You’ve accomplished a lot if this is your first project.

Wow you really just helped me out.
Finally someone sees the weirdness.

It is my first project but dont bust my ego too much my cables are way off and i did the pattern backwards cause i could knit the way it showed. Thanks tho=]

What would the difference look like?

I think I’m going to just with a lot.

Is it alright to sew it together
cause i bought a tapestry needle at the store and some cotton thread stuff.

No one at joannes was a knitter so i got no help.

and considering I’m very young haha i just kind of picked whatever.

or do i need to do the whole threading it with the yarn?

wow i feel dumb i cant figure this out.

ive done this hat and taken it out a billion times.
but i really enjoy this so ill stick it out.

Hey Destiny-don’t give up on it. This is a challenging pattern for your first one, so don’t feel bad that you’re having some struggles with it! Every project is a learning experience for me! So don’t feel dumb! If you stick with it, you’ll someday be able to make this pattern again and it will be a piece of cake.

As for seaming it up, when you say it’s cotton thread you got, are you talking about sewing thread? If so, I wouldn’t use that, because it can rub against your stitches and eventually break them, and you don’t want that after all your hard work! If it’s embroidery floss, then you could use that, but most people just use the yarn they were working with to seam up their work.

One of the best ways to seam is with mattress stitch, because it makes the seam invisible. There’s a video that shows you how to do that in the videos section of this website. (Go to the Knitting Tips section and then scroll down to the Finishing section. You’ll see the link in smaller font there.

This site also shows the mattress stitch, plus some other methods of seaming:
http://www.vogueknitting.com/node/330

So it sounds like you didn’t do this in the round so that it ends up like a hat without needing to sew it. In a lot of ways that would have made it harder to do. But you have gotten to the end anyway. So good for you.

I can’t remember if you are the one who said they could take pictures and show them or not, but seeing what you’ve got could help us answer some of your questions. I’m wondering what you mean by saying you did the pattern backwards. And I’m not sure what you are referring to when you ask:

What would the difference look like?

Yeah, you can sew it up as Marria said, using the same yarn you knit with. Your first hat may not turn out perfect, but you no doubt learned a lot in the effort. And the next will be better.

This hat was designed to be working in the round, with no seam needed. Charts are also easier to read when done in the round. When you work back and forth you have to read the first row going right to left and the next row going left to right and keep alternating like that. Another thing when you work in the round the right side of the hat always faces you and if the chart says to knit a stitch you knit it and if it says a stitch is a purl you purl it. But working back and forth you have to adapt. When you are working on the right side of the hat you read the chart just as it is, but if you are working with the inside of the hat facing you when the stitch says it is a knit you need to purl it (so that it ends up being a knit on the outside of the hat) and when it says to purl it you have to knit it. It is a little tricky to keep you mind going right—at least for me. LOL

I think the hat said to work on double pointed needles, but I could be forgetting what it said. Hats are easier in the round as far as I’m concerned, but you would need some different needles. Knitting in the round isn’t hard, but it helps to see it done. There are videos that show how to do it on this site. I believe it is under “advanced techniques”, but don’t let that scare you off. I taught my husband to knit and for his first project he made a hat in the round (of course I was on hand to help, but the videos can play that part). You can knit a hat in the round with a 16" circular and then switch to one of the next methods when you get to the top. These other methods are using 2 circulars, double pointed needles, and Magic Loop. All three of the last methods can be used to work the whole hat.

Hang in there, you will be a great knitter some day (and not that far off).

Sorry it took me so long to get back Ive been really busy.

But yes I did knit this in a round i just didn’t quite know how to sew the ends i did my best haha which means i just kinda made it up. I chock it up to experience and will try harder next time. Man the feeling when you finish your first item is amazing

thanks for all your help

even though it didnt come out to be as big as i expected im going to try another pattern thats more slouchy

=] thanks gusy