Is there a video online somewhere, where shows how to do an Invisible Bind off? I need good instructions and those online with just pictures confuses me. Please help.
If no video, please can someone explain it to me in great detail. I’m so confused what to do aver the 3rd stitch where the yarn is purled:
I’m not too clear on this:
"Take your needle behind the knit stitch, then between the knit stitch and purl stitch… "
I’m not familiar with the invisible bind off. Can you give us more of the directions?
I’ve never heard of it, either–at least not by that name. If you can post the directions, though, we probably can help.
According to my book, it’s the same as tubular. Here’s a video.
I found the instructions info here: http://bramblestitches.typepad.com/bramblestitches/2006/06/index.html
I can’t see the pictures enough to understand what the instructions are telling me. I’ll try the tubular video, thank you, but she has 2 types of yarn there. Do I disregard the orange yarn she’s got there? It’s kinda confusing me.
Thanks for all the help!
It looks like this bind-off goes by a lot of different names. After doing a little research, I’m pretty sure that Amy’s knit-one purl-one bind-off is the same thing as invisible/tubular (scroll down a little). Another name seems to be kitchener bind-off. It seems like most of the tutorials are for k1p1 ribbing, but there is a way to do k2p2 as well.
As for that other video, I think she’s just doing it in a contrasting color as part of the design. Just pretend she’s using the same color. Seeing her use the two different colors will probably help you keep track of which strand is the working yarn, though, which should make it easier to follow. 
Amy’s knit-one purl-one bind-off doesn’t explain what to do after the first 2 stitches. Does anybody know? At the end of part one it just ends, then continues on Part 2 with what seems like brand new stitches to work on.
It looks like you work those two beginning stitches again when you start the pattern.
What’s really cool is Amy’s note about how you can separate the knit and purl stitches onto two needles and just work kitchener stitch. No wonder it’s also called kitchener bind off! That might be an easier way to do it. Kitchener is on this page. Scroll down to the section on seaming.
This is all very confusing. I understand some of the instructions to Tubular, Knit 1 Purl 1, and Invisible Cast off, but they all have variations from each other and are not the same.
Which should I use for socks so that the cast off will not leave a huge noticable bind off? I also don’t want them to be that stretchy, just a tad.
Hm. Sorry I didn’t realize they were showing different variations. It’s a bind-off that I’ve been meaning to learn anyway, so let me try it out and get back to you – probably won’t be until later today, though. (I know this is a highly regarded bind-off for ribbing so now that we’ve figured out some alternate names for it, maybe others will be able to help too.)
There are lots of resources that give suggestions for stetchy bind-offs for socks, but it sounds like the typical ones are too stretchy for you. I’ll have to defer to others with more experience on that question. I’ve personally been using EZ’s sewn cast off for socks after I saw it recommended by several people online, but then I recently read somewhere that it’s not good for rib because it doesn’t match well. :shrug: I didn’t think it looked too bad, although now that I look at it again, I guess it does seem pretty conspicuous…
Maybe if you go back to your original post and change your subject line to something about sock bind-offs, more sock-knitters will notice it and be able to offer advice. I have a feeling that a lot of people are just not familar with the term “invisible bind off.”
Isn’t she just doing kitchener stitch? That is when you have stitches on two needles and you want to knit them together. The one tutorial was for when you wanted to knit to pieces together but they are all ready in bind off. Am I correct?
No, she’s doing a single bind off edge, not joining two pieces together. But a version of the bind off involves a technique separating the knits and purls onto two needles and then using kitchener – I guess you could say it’s like you’re kitchenering the edge to itself.
I want thank you sooo incredibly much for all your help.
If you do find answers please let me know. I did the Amy’s knit-one purl-one bind-off you recommended, and it binded off the sock ok…it looks ok too, can be kinda strange (not like the photo in the tutorial all nice and neat with the 1x1 ribbing), but I think I am just a beginner at this bind off.
No, she’s doing a single bind off edge, not joining two pieces together. But a version of the bind off involves a technique separating the knits and purls onto two needles and then using kitchener – I guess you could say it’s like you’re kitchenering the edge to itself.[/quote]
There’s a kitchener BO for ribbing I found in a book. I copied the page, will have to look at it and see if I can describe it. It may well be a tubular BO, I’m not familiar with that one either.
sue
Hey, was it the Big Book of Knitting? I borrowed that one once and I seem to remember them calling the kitchener what seemed to be tubular in another book. I sure wish they’d standardize these names…
I think it was the Big Book of Knitting. They have a Kitchener CO too. I dug up the pages and for k1,p1 ribbing you set up the BO by slipping the p stitches on the last 2 rows.
Then with the stitches still on the needle, you insert the tapestry/darning needle into the edge st like you were knitting the st. If a k st is the next one, insert the needle through both stitches at the same time. Let the st or both sts drop off and pull the yarn tight. Insert the tap needle into the p st as if to knit and pull tight, leaving the p st on the needle. Insert the tap needle from R to L through the previous k stitch you slipped off the needle and through the next k st and pull yarn tight. Then insert tap needle through the p st from right to left, pull the yarn tight and lit the p and k stitches drop off the needle.
Now, for knitting in the round (socks) you do slipped stitches on the last 2 rounds - in the first of these rounds, k the k sts/sl the p sts; the second rnd you work the p sts/sl the k sts wyib.
Start with a p st and tap needle. Inser the tap needle in p st from left to righ and pull tight, leaving this st on the needle. Ins tap needle through the last k st on on the R needle and at the same time, through the next k st on the L needle from right to left and pull yarn through. Leave the st on the R needle. Insert the tap needle into the p st again from right to left and let the p and the k st drop off the L needle.
Cont doing this until the end of the round. After the last p st is BO pull the yarn end to the inside and sew it in.
They recomment that the yarn end be about 3 times the width of the BO because you can’t add more if you run out before you finish.
Hope that helps and if you’re visually challenged :D, there are pictures in the book.
sue
I bet it’ll even out after you’ve washed it. Plus, I know we all like fancy socks (okay, at least some of us, do), but are people really going to be looking that closely at something that’s as far away as your feet? Probably not.
Just wanted to add that I tried out the bind-off on some socks that had k1p1 ribbing on the cuff and it worked great. Amy’s videos made it very easy to learn. The hardest part was not making it too loose. I think this is going to be my new default for socks. It looks neater than EZ’s and isn’t any more difficult.
Totally tubular, dude! :teehee:
I bet it’ll even out after you’ve washed it. Plus, I know we all like fancy socks (okay, at least some of us, do), but are people really going to be looking that closely at something that’s as far away as your feet? Probably not.[/quote]
Thanks for all your help! You mentioned if after I wash it…will that soften the yarn? I would like the yarn to be soft to slip on the sock, right now after finishing the bind off, it is a bit of a struggle to slip on.