Sock help

Quote:*When moving stitches, always slip as if to purl. Just like you did after casting on. DO NOT PURL the stitches, only insert the working needle AS IF you were going to purl.

On your next needle, (working yarn coming from last stitch of last needle), you need 32 24 20 stitches. This is needle #1.

*KEEP the working yarn before the first stitch on needle #1.

On your the other two needles, you need 16 12 10 stitches. These are needles #2 and #3.

This is the next step, dividing the stitches…the thing though is I don’t get where I am. I have them still divided 16, 16, 16. The trailing yarn is on the last needle to even out all the rows.

Which size are you doing? From what I can tell, your total number of stitches should be 64, 48, or 40 stitches.

48

There are 16 on each needle thus far

:doh: I can’t count today!!! I’ll blame it on that I haven’t gone to bed yet!

I am assuming that this is your first project done in the round, or at least your first sock, so please forgive me if parts of my explanation aren’t actually needed. {I’m also sleep-deprived, so don’t hesitate to holler and go :?? if I’m not making complete sense.}

Anyway, you are now ready to set the number of stitches on each needle needed for the pattern. When looking at your work {if you knit right-handed}, you should have a needle on your left which would be the next needle you would knit. The needle to your right would be the one you just knit on to, with the yarn hanging from the last stitch on your right hand needle, ready to start on the next needle. The other needle should be further away from you than the other two. When knitting in the round {circs or dpns}, you want your knitting to be going down and away from you.

Since the pattern calls for stitch counts of 24, 12, and 12, there are two ways you can accomplish this. The easiest for me would be just to knit and adjust the counts in my first row, but this only works if the row is plain. You knit the 16 stitches off of your left-hand needle on to your “spare” needle, and then the next 8 off of the following needle. Take your “new” spare needle, knit the next 8 stitches off of the needle you were just working with, and the first 4 stitches of the “last” needle. Knit the remaining 12 stitches on to your “spare” needle. This is hard to describe in words, but basically all you are doing is knitting the number of stitches you need on to your needles as you go, with needle #1 for the pattern being the first one that you knit onto and so forth.

If your stitch pattern isn’t plain, or you don’t want to knit the stitches to adjust them, you can slip stitches back and forth to make the correct counts. Slip your stitches as if to purl, which means that you stick the point of the being-slipped-to-needle into the stitch from right to left, and slip the stitch over. Hold your work with the yarn end in the middle towards you, and the rest of it hanging down and behind. Turn your work counter-clockwise to the point where the next two needles meet. Slip 8 stitches {one at a time} from your left needle to your right. Turn your work counter-clockwise once again to the next meeting point, and slip 4 stitches one at a time from your left needle to your right. Turn your work counter-clockwise again, and you should be back where you began, with your yarn end on the last stitch of the right hand needle. You can mark this point as the beginning of the round, and going clockwise from that point, you will have needle 1, 2, and 3.

Thanks Nicolethegeek!!! You’re a true lifesaver!!! :smiley:

Thanks Nicolethegeek!!! You’re a true lifesaver!!! :smiley:

Ok…I have it so that one needle has 24 sts, 12sts on the other 2 needles.

The next step says:

Work back and forth on needle #1.
Row 1 (on the right side of your work): Slip 1, Knit 1 Repeat between * across, turn work. (32 24 20 stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip one, purl across. (Slip ONLY the first stitch, purl the rest including the slipped stitches from row 1.)

Here is what my needle 1 looks like:
ssss|xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

from right to left
x=p,k,p etc
|=yarn trail
s=slipped stitches from the other needle

What do I do next?

Thanks!

What you’re doing is slipping every other stitch on the outside of the heel flap, and purling on the inside. This creates a cushiony, fairly thick heel for your sock that will resist wear.

So, your rows should look like this:

Row 1: slip, k, slip, k, slip, k…to end
Row 2: slip, purl, purl, purl to end
Row 3: same as row 1
Row 4: same as row 2
etc. until your heel flap is done

I made a mistake…my x’s mean p, p, k, k, etc

Is the heel flap going okay, then?

I’m in the same spot…

I’ve divided all of the sts so needle 1 has 24, 12 on the other 2 needles.

So I’m on needle 1, and there are 16 sts (ppkkppkkppkkppkk) from left to right when I knit. I moved the 8 sts from needle 2. so now the 24 sts looks like this (s=slipped) ppkkppkkppkkppkkssssssss from left to right. Between the first s and last k there is a yarn trail which is connected with yarn ball.

so I just p p k k p p k k the rest of the s’s?

Ahh, okay, I think I know what the problem is: you only knit the stitches on needle 1, the heel flap needle. Just keep going back and forth, ignoring the other two needles for now.

Does that help?

You are starting your heel flap and you need to have your stitches arranged so that you have 24 stitches on needle 1 (which it sounds like you do) and have the working yarn coming from the last stitch on the needle immediately to the right of needle 1. You will then start working only on needle 1. You will do rows 1 and 2, that you quoted earlier, for however many rows or inches the pattern tells you to do. Again, you are not working in the round anymore at this point. You are turning your work every time you get to the end of needle 1. It does not matter anymore what your stitch pattern has been up to this point, whether it’s been ribbing or what. You will start needle 1 with the row 1 instructions of slip 1, knit 1 across, then turn your work around and on the same stitches, slip 1, purl across.

I just re-read this, and am wondering…is the problem that your working yarn is not coming from the right stitch?? If so, all you need to do is keep slipping stitches around your dpns until it is in the right spot and you have your 24 stitches on needle 1. You do no harm by keeping on moving the stitches around until you have it right, as long as you are not actually working any of the stitches when you move them - just keep slipping the stitches purlwise until the stitches are arranged properly AND the working yarn is immediately next to the first stitch on needle 1. Otherwise you will not be able to proceed.

I still have the 8 sts that I got transferred…but I don’t know what to do.

Do I finish pp kk pp kk? And then start row one?

Yes! Exactly. You’ve moved stitches that haven’t been worked yet, so you need to work them first, then start the heel flap.

Thank you!!! Hahaha…I was just wondering :cheering:

Thank you!!! Hahaha…I was just wondering :cheering:

Ah, so that was the problem?!

:cheering: :cheering: :cheering:

ya :slight_smile: