Short rows for neck shaping video

#1

Not too long ago a video was posted which showed something to do with short row decreases for neck shaping. I remember saying I must try this on my next project, but I have forgotten exactly what is was.

I know it’s not the sloped bind off technique to avoid the stair step shaping.

It was more like, instead of binding off at the neck edge a series of short rows, or maybe decreases and short rows, are worked up to the shoulder and then on the last row all the stitches are worked and bound off. It made a lovely neat finish.

Does anyone recognise this?
I’d love to see the video.
Also is this technique for just back neck or can it be used for a front round neck where there are some rows worked straight up to the shoulder after the shaping?

#2

I don’t know if this is the same video that you saw but it is one technique for a smooth neckline or armhole.

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#3

Thank you salmonmac.
This is very similar but not quite it.
I am not sure the turns were done in the same way or different, the main difference in my memory is that the final row is bound off rather than leaving live stitches.
I can imagine binding off from the first shoulder, down the neck edge, and across the centre stitches but then when the second side of the neck is worked I get lost with what would happen next.
Would the last row bind off the second shoulder, bind off down the neck edge…and then just stop?? It seems an ugly place to stop at one side of the centre stitches so I think this isn’t right.

#4

I think I’ve confused 2 or more threads and videos and combined them in my head - not surprising considering the effect of the medication I am taking.

I went through every thread and found the one with short rows where I commented how nice it was but it turns out it is for a sleeve cap (I’ll try it on my current project as I’d forgotten this related to sleeves!)

In my confused head a similar video showed neck shaping which I think was for a back neck. Some shaping and binding off to finish.

@GrumpyGramma do you know a similar tutorial for neck shaping?

Thanks for any help or ideas

#5

I’m sorry, I don’t. I watched the video linked above and don’t see why the method couldn’t be used for front or back neck shaping. Maybe something will come to mind to distract me from what I should be doing (other than knitting :wink: ) later. My brain doesn’t function well until later in the day and then it’s still iffy.

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#6

Ah, thanks for looking back at it.
I think I’m probably remembering it incorrectly anyway - well that’s the thing with techniques that aren’t already known isn’t it?

I’ll get a life line in and watch the two videos again.

Perhaps the one salmonmac posted is better for me as it has the neck example and once those stitches are there I could join the front and back and work a round before the bind off.
I think I was planning to bind off before the couple of collar rows/rounds to give some stability to the neck line but maybe I don’t need to.

Thanks again, both of you. I really appreciate it.

#7

I was thinking same for some time. Knitting short row decrease on left side than cut the yarn without cast off, attach yarn on right side from shoulder side not neck side, do same short row decreases than cast off all around neckline.
I did it once before but i was continued to make few k1p1 rows than cast off.

Not sure did i explain correctly. It is hard to me explain with grammar correct sentences.

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#8

@ZKOhio Your explanation is better than I could do and English is my first and only language. It makes sense to me!

#9

Thank you gma

#10

Oh thank you!
That’s marvelous.
Your explanation is great.

The only thing I think I’m not sure of is if you mean left as you look at the RS of the work, which is the right shoulder (as you wear it). It probably doesn’t make any difference.
I think if I switch left and right it makes more sense to me so the centre stitches would be worked on the RS, then short rows on the WS up to that shoulder, rejoin as you say on the other shoulder edge, work up and end with the bind off on the RS - Really this is just me thinking out loud and twisting it around as there’s no harm casting off on the wrong side.
I suppose which ever way I can understand it is the way to try it.

The last sweater I made was a big floppy comfortable one, the neck was huge, off the shoulder, before picking up and knitting the neck band. This is what is in my mind about binding off at the neck edge before finishing. This top is very stretchy rib and I’m expecting to need to restrain the stretch in certain areas.

Thanks again.

#11

I did it on this sweater but only few short rows as suppose to be boat neckline or w/e is called. As i said before hard to explain what i mean but you get me wright. Was it left side RS or WS just try the way you explain

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#12

Oh yes this beautiful sweater.

Right side wrong side or ioide down. I’m half way through.
Wrote my rows out and rubbed out the numbers and arrows about 10 times before I got started!
I realised another thing is the need to resolve the wraps before binding off. It is probably possible to do both on the same row but for the sake of taking one step at a time I put in a row for it.

I have done a wrap and turn although not sure I have wrapped correctly or exactly which way to work them together, it’s 2 x 2 rib so the yarn is going back and forth and did I wrap the right way for each stitch…well we shall see. If it’s wrong I’ll just try again.

#13

If you need a review on w&t -

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#14

Thank you!
I watched the other video which has the first stitch passed after turning and this video doesn’t. I assume it is knitter preference but not sure of the benefit.
I’m going to work the row where the wraps are picked up and worked tomorrow, so we’ll see.

#15

I am not having success.
I have tried the smooth neck shaping from this video but it produces a lot of new stitches which means I can’t stay in pattern. Although she says you can work any pattern but I don’t see how that can happen if more stitches are added.

I have not been successful with German short rows or wrap and turn because I don’t know how to work the purl on the RS. All the tutorials I have seen show how to work purl on the WS in order to make the RS neat but I need to work purl on the RS.
I tried japanese short rows too which I thought must be workable but it didn’t work out well.

If anyone can tell me how to wrap and turn for a purl on the RS I think this could work.

If I am to wrap a purl should the yarn be in front, then slip the purl, wrap taking yarn to back, slip purl back, turn work and then move the yarn to wherever it needs to be for the stitch I’m about to work?
And how should the wrap and purl be worked on the RS to resolve the wrap?

I’ve worked the neck with wrap and turn but resolved all the wraps knit wise on the RS and I don’t really like it.

I’ve worked a swatch about a zillion times determined that I can work this out but failed. I also tried lots German short rows, Japanese and heaps of extreme leaning decreases which I thought might be an alternative to short rows and I thought it looked promising so kept trying but ultimately having a decrease all along the neckline was a bit too tight, non-stretchy.

#16

In each row you’re turning before you get to the extra sts from the previous rows. These look like shadow wrap short rows. You’re not working to the end of the row but turning before the end. If I get a chance, I’ll try it on a swatch.

#17

Just prior to the turn a stitch is lifted from the stitch below and worked. Working it puts it on the right needle and then the worknis turned. So there’s an extra stitch on the needle to be worked back in the WS which she says is a rest row. Then the next short row makes another extra stitch and so on.

I’m sure it is a lovely technique for some patterns.

#18

The new stitches are ‘twin stitches’ and are worked together with the stitch that you have on the needle already. If you look at the video again at 2:35ish she explains this. When you come to the ‘twin stitch’ just knit or purl both together - k2tog or p2tog. After doing the lifted increase, treat the two as one stitch.

GSR - Purls on the RS are done exactly as they are on the WS. After you work the purl, turn the work, move the yarn to the side facing, slip the stitch purlwise to the right needle and make the ds. When it’s time to resolve the double stitch you knit or purl as required for your pattern, either as a p2tog for both legs or as a k2tog for both legs
.
W&T - I don’t use W&T often. When I do I’m not aware of any difference working purls on the RS from on the WS. The video I posted above covers both knits and purls and how to resolve the wrap. Picking up purl stitch wraps is at about 2:20. She explains that it’s done the same whether on the RS or the WS.

Ultimately when working short rows the turn technique is the same on either side of the work. When to move the yarn for W&T is largely personal preference. I prefer the way Suzanne does it.

#19

I feel like I’m trying to reinvent knitting which can’t be right.

She never resolves those extra stitches.
I’ve tried as you said and worked them together and can’t even get a knit to sit right never mind a purl.
I end up with a whole load of mess on the RS.

I’m going to retry everything but like I say I feel like I’m reinventing knitting instead of working a known technique which works.

#20

OK, I tried the method I posted with a swatch. As I mentioned, you never get to the extra sts because you are always turning by some number of sts before the doubled stitch. You don’t have to work them in pattern. Yes, you have extra sts but they are then part of the future neckband or collar.
That said, this is not my favorite method for a smooth neckline. I prefer to use a sloped bind off with this addition to eliminate the gap at the center neckline bind off. The sloped bind off lets you easily pick up sts for the neckband with a sturdy seam.