Scoks DPNS and Magic Loop

Morning everyone,

Todays dliemna is the sock… as has been my first problem and still a problem. More the techniques. I figured out the DPNS finally, then decided I wanted to do the 2 sock method on on needle. That was crazy, I got the yarn all set as I seen in a picture tutorial, but as I did the first half of the stitches on the one needle, I didnt know what to do next, the 2nd half of the same sock or the first half of the second sock. I cant seem to get how to join it for the round. I cant seem to get the stitch on the cable to be able to take the extra cast on stitch and crossing over that. I watched Amys video on magic loop and I dont see any join. ANd when I see that it is just a tighten, still not seeing where its joining the area.
So I quess thats my first issue… making it join…
Then on making 2 socks on one needle…am I going around the entire sock, THEN going to the 2nd.?
I tried to watch Cat B.s Video, but cant seem to find a video on the 2 socks on one method.
I cant get to any source for books right now with holdiay and limited travel options.

i was then frustrated and going to go to the 2 needle circles, but then means getting more supplies, since I just got the 3 circular needles that is 48 inches.

I also read talk of having 2 loops for the Magic loop method. I dont seem to see 2 loops forming… I get one big loop. And when I get those stitches pulled on the cable, it seems stretched… I dont know maybe I am just doing it all wrong.

Any other videos out there that are not already on google search or this website that could help.

I am going to send a link I found or a picture of double socks I found just have to make sure its right before I send it so I dont lose all I typed.
Thanks thinking going back to the DPNS>. seems so easy after all this other attempts

Hope this shows right, I cant seem to get a link in here from my favorites so I iploaded the file. If it doesnt work I will send it again.
Lets see if I got this to work.

So my question is this… I did all it said… After I finish the first half of the stitches… then what? It does not seem that needles place right … its empty… what gets pulled to the empty cable needle… the rest of the sock or the next half of the 2nd.?


Hope this link will help someone

IMHO if you haven’t made a single sock yet I suggest you do that first. It’ll really help if you know the mechanics of a single before you try doing two at once as well as learning a new technique. :shrug:

[color="#330099"]Jan, what’s wrong with doing your first pair of sock, two at a time? :wink:

Jan knows me, I’m a joker and I like a challenge. So for me starting out on my first pair of sock (with out a pattern in hand even) was just another challenge to be met and won.

I bought two circular needles of the same size and brand. Now I wish I had bought different brands or types so they would look different. But you are planning on using ML and only one long circular. That would seem a bit easier.

Cheri, are you the sensible type or the reckless and adventurous type?

If you are willing to take chances, make mistakes, get frustrated, learn from you mistakes, and even start over, then continue on undaunted.

Join, if you’ve done the DPNs then you have done a join. So where are you in the list of steps on that page you linked? :think:

I’ll take it from the top, just to give you another point of view and suggestions.

First, you need two sources of yarn, that can be either two ends (one from the center and one from the outside) from the same ball or skein (no hanks here please, wind a hank down to two balls).

Put one working yarn on your left and the other on your right. How you do that depends on your choices in the first step. I am using two ends from the same skein. So I have my skein in a canvas shopping bag. I’ve carefully pulled loose several yards from the outside end and wound it into a center pull ball that is tucked beside the skein.

Answer to your second question: You will be working half of sock 1, switching yarn and working both halves of sock 2, then switching back to your first yarn to work the second half of sock 1.

Next, you cast on half your stitches for your first sock then drop that yarn and with the other working yarn cast on all stitches for your second sock. I think that answers your second question. (no joins or loops yet either). I might take a rubber band and wrap it around the end nearest the first sock (that has only half of its stitches cast on) just to make it easy to tell them apart.

Third step, move all CO stitches to the cord and divide & gentily bend the cord so so half stitches for sock 2 are on one side of the bend and half are on the other side. Grab the cord at the bend and pull it out between (the middle two stitches) into a loop. This is loop one*. (*Part answer of question 3, two loops used in ML)

I suggest using a contrasting yarn or thread tied in a loop as a stitch marker. I use one stitch marker/loop between the first two stitches of sock 1 and two maker loops between the first two stitches of sock 2.

You should be at step 3 on you linked page. (note photo is above the text for step 3)

Step 4) Now you need to cast on the second half of the fist sock. go back to the yarn hanging from those CO stitches of sock one and use that yarn to CO the remaining half of the stitches needed.

Now, if what you’ve got matches the picture after step four you are ready to pull the second point (I marked with a rubber band) of your circulars out (making your second loop*) and start your first half-row on sock one with a join.

Here is another page about ML (magic loop) and it may show you what you’ve missed about moving the stitches to the cable cord (I use the word cord so as not to confuse it with using a separate “cable” needle) and pull the second point out to start knitting on the front. This makes the second loop of ML.
See this page:
( )

A join is just using the working yarn to knit (or purl) into the first stitch you CO for the sock you are working on. (Answer to first question).

Nothing special about a join, it is just a stitch into the first CO stitch. Well maybe pulling it tight to prevent a wide gap between the second half of this round and the first half.

But you’ve done DPNs so you know how to join, right? :??

Now continue on with your pattern, round 1… (divided into a fist half “row 1” and a second half called “row 2.”)

Row 1, sock 1 (this is the first half of round 1 in your sock pattern):
Join with knit or purl stitch as given in pattern, place one maker, then continue in pattern until you are halfway through round 1.

Drop that yarn and pickup the yarn hanging off the back cord for sock 2.

Row 1, sock 2 (repeat the first half or round 1 from your pattern for sock2):
Join with knit or purl stitch as given in pattern, place two makers, then continue in pattern until you are halfway through your round 1.

Now you can see the start of each round and tell sock 1 (one marker) from sock 2 (two markers). This is very important if you are interrupted, or any time after you’ve had to pack your knitting away (like for travel).

Before you join with a stitch into the first CO stitch, first make sure all your stitches for the sock are lined up straight and the CO edges are toward the middle of your magic loop.

(Looking back, you said you’ve done DPNs so this is also something you should already know.) :slight_smile:

Good luck! Crossed Fingers

Ha! Nothing, Jack, but I do think if you learn how the sock is constructed and learn ML first it won’t seem quite so daunting when you get to heel. That can be confusing for new sock knitters doing one at a time. :teehee:

Yes, well even with knitting two-at-at-a-time you still knit heels one at a time. :wink:

But yes, I must confess that when I started the heel extension and flap (I started toe up) I had a moment where I miscounted and thought the pattern was wrong and had an error. :doh: But I trusted the pattern, read the next row and re-read the first row (I had just got to the end of) and saw where I had mis-counted (not counting the SSK [2togTBL]) stitch).

Yes, I did print a pattern (Mash-up Magic toe-up socks or MUMTUS) before I had knitted my first round.

I have to say I agree with Jan…Learn how to make 1 sock and then try 2 at a time. I made the mistake of trying 2 at a time (on the same needle) my 1st time and I was so frustrated.

I wasn’t going to let socks get the best of me, so here is what I did in the end. I made both socks at the same time using ML, only I knit them on 2 seperate needles. I would knit a couple of inches on 1 then work the other. When I got to the heel, I worked 1 then the other and so on. Now that I finished my 1 pair of socks (2x2 ribbed knee highs, another bad idea) I really don’t feel like make any more. Maybe I’ll try again later.

Best of luck to you. :knitting:

WHEW… thanks Jack for that detailed thread. I so appreciate the time you spent and everyone spends answering my questions…

To answer… I am the adventerous type that gets very bored very soon, which was one of the reasons I wanted to try 2 socks at once.

Ive been or taught myself to knit over the last 2 months and have dove into every website I can find, videos, all of Amy’s, only to find a new question and dang it … another nice project to desire. I think I have a project desire for the next 2 years now.

I started with wanting to do socks, take a class maybe get a book, then when I started grrrr even the rib stitch gave me issues. And I realized I just cant do some projects with my chatty son around. I lose count to easy.

I am the type of person that has to know ALL the mechanics available so I can then decide what works for me.

The DPNS drove me insane, but learning the Magic Loop made DPNS very easy after I got the triangle locked in. And when I started to think of those little size 3 needles and just yarn holders… and dropping a stitch is not gonna send me to purgatory, since I can fix it, I relaxed a lot.

My daughter who is 19 is learning as well… and we get very excited when that AAAAA HA moment comes and we finally get it. Took me 4 days of looking at some videos to get long tail… just could not get the CO method… and those 4 days of insanity allowed me to cut 4 days off her own frustration… so in tis ramble… sometimes I need to see ALL the methods to understand the process.

LOL… I get the sock. Not even worried about the heel part. Yet. Just finding the best way to get there. And I know that once I finish one sock… and if it is as frustrating as some say. I may have one sock forever. LOL

I get so bored that I have to have many things going at one time so I can change… chaos is my friend… oh well. I have the detailed project I do when no one is around. (Found a cable scarf patter), I have the mindless hat on circles with rounds of mindless Knit I can do on the phone. I have the grannie squares for a crochet afgan for the road… LOL… and some wash cloth I am making to practice counting a rib, and learning to see those stitches.

So with all that rambling… I will end and talk of my progress in another post… thanks again

Okay… so once again thanks for the information and links. I am going to print this really big and take one step at a time. Needless to say… my project went back to DPNS… but I am only on row one… and its still sitting for a few days as my head clears and my dreams takes apart what I learn and processes the information.

I managed to cast on and get the cable needle to look exactly like the picture. I had 2 balls in small plastic containers set to the right and left of my work.

I managed to get the first half of the first sock done… that was a CO of half the stitches as the pattern said. This is were the problem occured… it did not seem my circle was connected to the other half of the sock… and if that is not an issue… then I didnt really know what to do next. So this thread helped a lot.

I have not gotten my aaaahhhaa moment…I will let you know when I do.

This all started when I was making wrist warmers with no fingers but maybe a thumb hole for my niece… and bought these hugh needles, made them flat. Was my first project… and it seemed after making the first set and then doing it by my own pattern. Sewing up the 2nd glove and it being to big that I had to do something different. But besides that, when I got to a new set for my other niece, I was like, why cant I knit both at the same time on this long needle. save time (if time is even saved) and get them the same length.

Well I have learned a lot since then. like counting rows… go figure, and seeing what an actual knit and purl looks like… so when I loose count such as on that rib I can pick it up again.

But thanks so much… I am just one of those folks that need many different people, videos. books etc to get a point that is not going to have just ONE little thing said to make it work.

I appreciate you all

I use 2 circular needles to do socks most of the time. I bought enough so that I can have two going at the same time. :teehee:

If you haven’t seen this pattern you might want to take a look. She has one sock on dpns as well as two toe up socks on one circular needle…(ML). Her photos are very detailed and this might help. I don’t know what I didn’t think of it before.

You’re welcome.

Cheri, bless your heart, you sound like you could be my twin sister. :slight_smile: I’m a bit ADD with my knitting so I understand the need to try everything right now! :wink: And having many WIPs (filling every set of needles, even).

Well you cast on from one point (call it needle two) but sock one will have both halves closest to the needle points. That means sock to is “magically” sitting in between the first half and second half of sock 1.

With a straight needle ti would look like …

I know, that “n” doesn’t look much like the loop but I only have 26 characters to choose from.

Looped it will look like …
/===2222==1111===> (#2 back needle)
===2222==1111===> (#1 front needle)

If you number the stitches in order cast on …
(I will use numbers then letters for all 16 stiches, A is one more than 9, F will be 15 and G will be 16
/===[COLOR=“Blue”]9ABC[/COLOR]==[COLOR=“DarkRed”]DEFG[/COLOR]===> (#2 back needle)
===[COLOR=“Blue”]8765[/COLOR]==[COLOR=“DarkRed”]4321[/COLOR]===> (#1 front needle)

Now with only 8 stitches per sock in my example, I must be knitting tiny socks. The idea is the same for larger stitch counts.

With just 8 sts they would be about the size to slip on a pencil.

Oh! :slight_smile: I just invented knitted pencil grips. :roll: