When you make the next stitch with the yarn in front, it automatically goes to the back and makes the YO. You can just wrap the yarn - bring to the front, then to the back and work the next st, but it’s the same thing.
Thanks for the replies! That is the Bernat pattern with the green blanket I had my mom come over to show me what it should look like (but she knits the other way). What I ended up doing, because she could at least tell me that I needed to make an increase with the YO, was to do an M1 in the ladder between stitches. In the swatch, it seems to be working up ok like that, and it is pretty easy, considering I’m going to have to do that a zillion times
Thanks again, ladies! I’m happy I found this forum! :happydance:
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Welcome to the forum! I am also an advanced crocheter that recently learned to knit. :guyknitting:
Well, the M1 increase is functionally equivalent to a YO (that should have been done) between the same stitches in the previous row, but since the row is complete on either side (yarn is tighter) the M1 make a smaller hole than a YO would. It also means your increase is one row earlier and on the opposite side of your work when compared to using YO in the current row. These are probably minor details.
To do the YO, hold your left needle between your thumb and ring finger then use your middle finger to push the yarn forward (as if to purl) but dip your right needle down over the yarn in front of your work then pull the yarn over the right-hand needle and to the back to work the next k3.
Very much like the video Jan linked to but followed by a k instead of the p that Amy does in the video.
I consider continental (German/European) style to be a more equal division of labor between one’s two hands when knitting (or purling.)
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I just had a silly thought about a “left-hand” liberation movement having protest marches and “glove” burnings.[/SIZE]
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It won’t be as open because the m1 is a smaller hole, but if that’s how you want to do it.
Artlady, it’s no typo, after you k3, the next instruction is “Sl1K. K2tog. psso.” a decrease. And it’s not physically impossible, even for continental knitters. You K 4 for the edge, then yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k1 and repeat from the yo to make the chevron/ripple pattern. Bernat is a canadian company and uses british terms in their pattern.
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Ah, yes, the other two peoples separated by a “common” language.
Thanks, Sue.
I would guess that I was editing in my elaborations when you posted, because I thought I had said the same thing about an M1 hole being smaller than a YO.
Well, you said it better (and with fewer words). [/color]
I found another pair of needles and grabbed another ball of yarn, and tried the YO from the video (which is FAB), and I think I do like the look of it more, but I need to make a couple more reps of the pattern to really see. I also like that it is actually less work, once I stop trying to make it more complicated than it really is
ETA: Man am I ever glad I thought of practicing on a swatch until I figured out the pattern first!
Practicing with some other yarn is always a good thing to do, especially if the st pattern has something new in it. Or even just to see what it’s supposed to look like. Knitting the pattern on only 20-30 sts it’s a lot easier to see than when you cast on for the whole thing and it takes a while to see the pattern emerge.
I knit Continental, and it sounds like Jack does too. The way I think of the YO between knits is just to bring the yarn to the front like you would if you were going to purl the next stitch and then I give the yarn a little nudge with my left middle finger to bring it into a vertical position next to the last stitch loop on the right hand needle. Then I use my right index finger to hold the yarn to the top of the right hand needle. The yarn ends up behind the left needle again so that you can knit the next stitch. Keep holding the yarn to the top of the needle until you make the first knit, so it doesn’t get in the way.
I think you will be happier with a YO on your blanket than a M1. The YO is part of the charm of the blanket.
And by working on a smaller sample, you get familiar with the pattern. So when you start on the larger project, you don’t have near as much frustration.
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Doesn’t everyone know yet that I’m a master crocheter that recently turn to knit? Yarn in the left hand is “old hat” to a crocheter. I kept it there when re-learning to knit because I didn’t know it was un-American… :roflhard: [/color]
[color=#300090]:oops: I just reviewed all the M1 variation videos and see that an M1 in the ladder between (**M1F or make one front) works the knit into the back of the loop (inducing a twist in the stitch). I was mistakenly thinking of the **[U]Decorative Increase[/U] (linked to the continental style KH video by Amy) which isn’t twisted.
So the **Decorative Increase is equivalent to a YO… blah (what I struck through in my quote applies to a decorative increase) An M1 gives the stitch a twist which closes the hole even more (or completely?).
[SIZE=“1”]** Amy says, “The names M1A, M1T, KRL, KLL, M1B, and M1F are my own names, and not standard by any means.”
M1L (make one left) she calls M1F (make one front) I would call it (Make one, Left twist)
The M1R (make one right) she calls M1B (make one back) and I would call it (make one, right twist).
Then what Amy calls a decorative increase is just making one between without any twist at all. Perhaps that why I thought it was call an M1.
What she calls an M1A (make one away) and M1T (make one towards) look like a simple loop CO between stitches with the working tail either pointing away for to the front which depends on the way the CO loop is twisted.[/SIZE]
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