O.K. I’m trying to convert a Roman Strip Pattern to knit on circulars. Basically, the Pattern is:
K YO, K around
K around
K2tog around YO, k2tog around YO, K2tog around
K
K
Now, for knitting on straight needles, the second YO,K2tog row would be worked from the wrong side, resulting in a ‘purlish’ row on the right side.
I’ve tried to do a YO, p2tog - but I must not be doing it right. I end up doing a 360° wrap, which sometimes results in an extra loop or extra stitch.
Any advice? On either doing the YO, p2tog correctly, or another type of decrease that would twist the stitches so they look right?
Jill, I am not familiar with this particular pattern, so I went and looked for an on-line site that gave directions for the pattern. Here is what I found:
This is supposed to be worked on an even number of stitches.
Row 1: k1, *yo, k1; rep from * across to last st, k1
Row 2: k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 3: k1, *k2tog; rep from * across to last st, k1
Rows 4 and 5: k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * across to last st, k1
Rows 6 and 7: k
You give this:
K YO, K around
K around
K2tog around YO, k2tog around YO, K2tog around
K
K
Is this your effort at writing the same directions (with a couple of minor changes) for use in the round? That is what I think that may be. You’re going in the right direction but there are a couple things you may have wrong.
First I can say that the first directions give a seam stitch at the beginning and end of each row. You don’t need that when working in the round (and some directions may not even give it for flat knitting).
I just rewrote some cable patterns for myself and they all worked just right. I have heard that some pattern stitches don’t work out correctly in the round. I don’t know about that, it could be true. You’ll have to experiment with this pattern to see if it works in the round.
This is how it should read (I think)to work it in the round. I am skipping the first row of knitting you gave so that there are only 7 rows in the repeat, like it was given where I found it. It needs to be worked over an even number of stitches.
Rnd 1: *YO, K1; rep from * around
Rnd 2: Knit around
Rnd 3: *K2tog; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: * P2tog, YO: rep from * around
Rnd 5: *YO, K2tog; rep from * around
Rnd 6: Purl around
Rnd 7: Knit around
I think that is right. If the directions you gave and the ones above are for the same pattern, and I think they are, then I think Row 1 of the first directions and your row 2 are both the right side of the work.
It’s complicated to think about. When you work in the round there are no wrong side rows, but if you are working from directions that have right and wrong side rows, you work the right side rows just as given and the wrong side rows must be read from the end to the beginning (instead of beginning to end) That’s because in flat knitting you have purl side rows that are knit in the opposite direction (if you were looking at the work from the front you would be working from left to right) and in the round you knit all rounds right to left so you have to reverse what were the wrong side rows. In flat knitting if you want a knit on the front but are working a wrong side row you need to purl it, and vise versa. So to work from flat directions you have to do the opposite of what is given. So it is a brain twister.
Try it the way I’ve given it and see if it works. Let me know how it goes and if it doesn’t work maybe we can figure out why not.
MErigold - O.k. So I tried one pattern. Got the p2tog, YO, but on the next row of knitting, the YO is slanting in the wrong direction, making the stitch hard to do. I ended up knitting that row through the back loops. I’m going to try the next time to see if I can wrap so that I can knit normally in teh next row.
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]Smith & Merigold, (Florist for the [I]Sopranos[/I]?)
I found this to be a most interesting discussion. Because we (right hand knitters) read from left to right but knit from right to left then the WS straight needle pattern has to be mirrored from (RS) Left to right to (RS) right to left order as well as translating purls to knits.
So, to help me understand, I’ve edited the following quotes to include directional arrows before the row/round numbers. [/COLOR][/FONT]
[quote=“MerigoldinWA,post:2,topic:55072”]
Jill, I am not familiar with this particular pattern, so I went and looked for an on-line site that gave directions for the pattern. Here is what I found:
This is supposed to be worked on an even number of stitches.
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 1: k1, *yo, k1; rep from * across to last st, k1
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]–>[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 2: k1, purl to last st, k1
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 3: k1, *k2tog; rep from * across to last st, k1
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]–>[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 4: k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * across to last st, k1
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 5: k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * across to last st, k1
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]–>[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 6: k
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Row 7: k
[[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"] [I]Edited to show stitching direction viewed from RS of work-Jack[/I] [/COLOR][/FONT]]
You give this:
Is this your effort at writing the same directions (with a couple of minor changes) for use in the round? That is what I think that may be. You’re going in the right direction but there are a couple things you may have wrong.
…
This is how it should read (I think)to work it in the round. I am skipping the first row of knitting you gave so that there are only 7 rows in the repeat, like it was given where I found it. It needs to be worked over an even number of stitches. [FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]** [[I]See above edit - Jack[/I]] [/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 1: *YO, K1; rep from * around
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 2: Knit around
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 3: *K2tog; rep from * around.
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 4: * P2tog, YO: rep from * around
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 5: *YO, K2tog; rep from * around
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 6: Purl around
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]<–[/COLOR][/FONT] Rnd 7: Knit around
I think that is right. If the directions you gave and the ones above are for the same pattern, and I think they are, then I think Row 1 of the first directions and your row 2 are both the right side of the work.
[/QUOTE]
[FONT=“Comic Sans MS”][COLOR="#300090"]So, I’m asking, would this require combinded knitting or purling when converted from straight to circular?
I’ve been experimenting with actually trying to do the Roman Stripe pattern, what I had written before was academic because I hadn’t actually worked the stitch flat or round. :oops: I probably should have, but it takes so long to do.
I worked the pattern stitch and it is pretty cool. I did it flat and following my directions for working it in the round kind of work, but this may be one of those stitches that can’t be done in the round.
I started off with 18 stitches, 6 on each needle. It works fine on rounds 1-3. On round 4 when I got to the end I needed to add one more yarn over at the end of the round, but I don’t know how to add one at the end of a round. :?? So I just left it without it and since round 5 begins with a YO you get one there (But round 5 is supposed to begin with a YO so that is where I lost my 1 st that I mention in a bit. You need a YO right at the end of rnd 4 and at the beg of rnd 5.) But things started getting out of kilter. Round 5 needs to be worked as I gave it with the YO, then the K2tog. I didn’t have any trouble with stitches sitting wrong for me to work on this row. They were fine on that count, but when I would come to the end of a needle there was one stitch left at the end where I needed to K2tog. So I just moved it to the next needle and then did the k2tog. That worked but things started snowballing. When I finished the round I had lost 3 sts off needle 1, needle 2 was okay, needle 3 had gained 2. Overall I had lost 1 stitch somehow (that is because I lost a YO as I mentioned above). I was working on dpns, if you were working on a long circular maybe it would be okay, although they still might be off at the join. Are you using a circular needle? How is it working out at the join with it? It may work fine.
The way the stitch turned out looks right though. If you haven’t done it, I suggest you work some of this flat to help you see better what you are trying to accomplish. I worked the pattern flat and then worked it flat again, one row at a time and kept my circular one on the same row/round so I could compare them.
To do the purl 2tog, YO you have the yarn in front to purl and then starting with the yarn in front move it over the top of the right hand needle and continue arcing around under the needle until you are in front again.
You do have to do a YO at the beginning of rounds 1 and 5, but that is doable.
I wondered if you could do a double yarn over at the join between rounds 4 and 5 where you need one YO at the end of the round and 1 at the beginning of the round. You could fool around with that, but I doubt if it would work. It would probably make an overly large hole, and just be weird.
About your pattern saying you need 8 rows and the one I found saying 7…in the flat I think you need 8 to bring it back to a right side row to begin row 1 on. If you are working in the round you could do it with 7 or 8 since all rows are right side. If you want it to look just like the flat pattern you would add an 8th round and it would need to be purled.
I am not a genius knitter, somebody may have a good word for you on this, but this is the best I can do. Let me know how it goes.
No, you don’t need to do combined knitting to make it work. The knitting is regular, you just read WS rows backwards and as opposites. Here is an example of a few rows of a cable I “converted”. Luckily most cables don’t twist every row and they are on the RS of the work so that makes them a bit easier. I’ll give row 1 flat and then right under it round 1 for circular work so they are easier to compare.
Row 3 (WS): P1, k6, p1, [k1, p1] 4 times, k6, p1.
Round 3: K1, p6, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1, p6, p1.
{I actually wrote this for myself as:K1, p6, [k1, p1] 5 times, p5, k1, to make it easier to read, but it is the same thing.}
Row 4 (RS): K1tbl, p5, T4Rtbl, k1, k1tbl, k1, T4Ltbl, p5, K1tbl.
Rond 4: exactly as given
That gives you an idea of how you do it backwards and opposite of what is given.
Jack, thanks for the arrows, I hadn’t thought of it in those terms, but will in the future. The visualization really helps.
Meri - I don’t think DPs will work - as you discovered. Defnitely on Circs, but I’m still not sure if I can ever get it right. That whole YO row and the following K row does take a lot of time, BUT I like the PATTERN (stomping and banging fists).
As long as I have a marker at the beginning of the round, it works out fine b/c you can have a YO at the end or beginning of the round and the marker will keep it separate.
So I do have to do a ‘whole 360’ around the needle in order to do a YO/purl. This might help.
Thanks for spending so much time helping me work out my problem. I’ll let you know how the next round works out.
