reverse shaping?

Hi Knitters,

I’m working on a toddler cardigan and I’m about halfway done. It’s my first project. Now I’m on the right front side and the instruction reads:

LEFT FRONT Transfer sts for Left Front from holder to needle. Join yarn and work as for Right Front, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

I’m kind of confused by the reverse shaping. I understand what the concept means, but I’m not sure how to apply it.

Here’s the instruction for the Right Front that I would be reverse shaping:

Next Row (Buttonhole Row): Sl 1, k 2, yarn over, k2 together, k to end of row. Work even for 9 rows, then repeat Buttonhole Row. Work one WS row.

Neck Shaping Next Row (RS): Bind off 13 (16, 17, 19) sts, k to end of row. Work even for 2 rows. Bind off. BACK Transfer sts for Back from holder to needle. Join yarn and work even until Back measures 9½ (10, 11, 12) in. [24 (25.5, 28, 30.5) cm] from beg. Bind off.

What is it I should reverse, and exactly how? Also, when reversing, do I turn every WS into a RS?

Thanks so much if anyone can help!

Next Row (Buttonhole Row): You can skip the buttonhole directions if you’ve already made them on the right front. If not, you would make the buttonhole toward the end of the row on the left front.

Yes, for these directions, bind off at the neck edge on the WS row.
Neck Shaping Next Row (WS): Bind off 13 (16, 17, 19) sts, work to end of row. Work even for 2 rows. Bind off.

Sometimes it’s easier to work both fronts (or both sleeves) at the same time. The shaping is more obvious that way and for the sleeves, it ensures that shaping occur on the same rows.

I get confused when i work both at the same time, instead i keep a row by row detail of what i did for one side (number of rows worked and where the decreases occur) referring to this when I work the opposite side. We all do what works best for us. My problem has always been keeping track of the number of rows worked. I have tried all kinds of row counters but find the old fashion paper and pencil works best for me. Everyone have a great day!

hi, thanks very much for your replies! I’m going to try that out.

I have one more question (or three): I skipped the buttons, but don’t I still have to make that slip stitch? And since I have to reverse it, would I make the slip stitch at the end rather than the beginning of the row? That’s what I did just now. However, I had an issue with this slipped stitch on the next row. I wasn’t sure how to work it. I knit it as normal but it just looked strange.

What pattern are you following? Can you give us a pattern name or a link to it?
Is the sweater in garter stitch, that is, knit every row? If so, slip the first stitch at the beginning of the WS row the same way that you did on the right front, RS row. If you slipped knitwise on the right front, then slip knitwise on the left front.

It’s the Lionbrand Tie Hoodie free pattern:

It’s in garter stitch. The first time round I slipped the stitch as to knit.

I just found out by the way that to slip the stitch at the end of the row you must first bring the yarn in front, as to purl, and then slip the stitch. But you’re saying that I would still slip this stitch at the beginning of the row?

What does the slip stitch even do? I don’t get it :-[

Thanks again :slight_smile:

OK, then to be consistent, slip the stitch as if to knit on the left front. In this case slip at the beginning of the WS row (not the armhole side). Since the front bands will show, it’ll leave a neater edge and it’ll match the right side.
The armhole edges will become part of the sleeve seam so they won’t show on the finished hoodie.

If you want a really smooth chained edge, slip purlwise as in this video:

Save this for the next project. Right now, you want the two edges to look the same or at least similar.