Pattern for bottom up Raglan. Apparently, the number of rows it takes to create the raglan armhole shaping is supposed to be the same on the back and sleeves (and maybe the front?) so stitches will line up for seaming. Just completed knitting the back. From the “cast off” row to the neckband, it took 79 (decrease) rows to reach the goal number of neckband stitches. Looking ahead at the sleeve pattern instructions, I calculate that it will take only 65 rows to reach the sleeve’s goal number of stitches (using the same decrease instructions as the back). How do I “make up” 14 rows? Is there a way to create some extra rows as I am decreasing stitches on the sleeve without the shape going wonky? The pattern calls for a p2tog at each end on RS and then knit even across WS. So it’s decreasing 2 stitches every other row. Thank you for any help!
Raglan Sweater pattern flaw?
Welcome to the forum!
What is the name and designer of your pattern?
Thank you!
The pattern is from Aran Sweater Market (ClanArans.com). I am working on the O’Connor Raglan Kit size 48. My first attempt at a sweater. Perhaps I bit off more than I can chew!
Really good looking sweater as are all these clan patterns. Certainly not an easy sweater to knit.
It looks like there might well be a section at the top of the sleeve that is worked without decreases (the 14 row difference). You can see it especially on the left shoulder where the raglan seam makes a bend toward the neck.
If you’d like to give us the stitch numbers and the pattern instructions for the decreases, we’ll be happy to look at them. Don’t give us a large portion of the directions due to designer copyright.
Unfortunately, the company selling these patterns and kits doesn’t support them which is really unforgiveable.
Does the pattern have a schematic of any kind? Sometimes that’s helpful in working things out. I agree with salmonmac that it’s good looking sweater and not a simple knit.
Your explanation makes could be the perfect answer!
I have written on the pattern so much that it may not be legible to anyone else so, here’s the pertinent part of the instructions:
BACK (after casting off 8 sts at beginning of last 2 rows, we have 137sts.)
Begin raglan shaping:
1 P1 Tw2 P2tog pattern to the last 5 sts. P2tog Tw2 P1
2 K1 P2 K1 pattern to the last 4 sts. K1 P2 K1
Repeat these 2 rows until 69 sts. remain.
Continue Raglan on both back and front of work thus:
1 P1 Tw2 P2tog pattern to the last 5 sts. P2tog Tw2 P1
2 K1 P2 K2tog pattern to the last 5 sts. K2tog P2 K1
Repeat these 2 rows until 47 sts remain.
Leave these sts on a holder
SLEEVE (after casting off 8 sts at beginning of last 2 rows, we have 80 sts):
Work raglan to match back leaving 14 sts at top of sleeve.
Sew raglans down to armhole starting at the top of sweater, except for back of left-hand seam.
Since the instructions didn’t call for the 14 remaining sleeve stitches to be placed on a holder, perhaps your theory of repeating those stitches until the row numbers coincide is correct!
Hi. Unfortunately, all I have is the photo above and written instructions. I fell in love with the design and was given the pattern for Christmas. Might have been a bit ambitious for me.
I agree with your math, you’ll reach the required number of sts for the back or front in 79 rows. For the sleeve you can dec as for the beginning decreases for the back (decrease 2sts every other row for 65 rows) then work without any decreases until you’ve worked 79 rows total, matching the back.
You can try writing to the company. They may have improved with time and support their patterns.
Thank you! I will give this a try. I appreciate your working out the calculations and happy to learn that I wasn’t missing something major.
I seem to recall that when my daughter gifted me with the pattern she mentioned that there was a Reddit thread about these patterns being difficult to decipher and the company’s lack of interest in addressing questions. Maybe it’s their way of getting people to purchase their already made sweaters. 
Hello
If you’ve already completed the back then I’d say you have not bitten off more than you can chew. This is a really difficult pattern with complex stitch patterns to keep track of and you have obviously accomplished it, proving you are perfectly capable.
The problem is with the pattern not being supported well by the designer/publisher.
If it was me I’d put in a life line 2 or 3 rows before the cast off for underarm. I don’t like a life line in a cast off row and prefer it a little away. I’d also choose a row which was the simplest more straight forward row to work to put the life line in, ie not a cable cross and perhaps not directly after a cable cross when there is some tension in the fabric. I’d go even lower than the 2 or 3 rows if it meant a “simple” row to place the life line. Then, importantly, write down exactly which row number the life line is in and which row of the pattern repeat this relates to.
Do you know how to place a life line?
With the life line in place you can have some confidence that you won’t lose the whole sleeve if the decreases and row count doesn’t wok out and needs rethinking.
Hi there
Thank you for your encouraging words.
I am quite familiar with life lines. Made use of one 5 or 6 times while knitting the back. And you are right, picking the most simple of the rows is key. There are some rows where a cable needle is used 22 times! I found that where the “diamond” shapes intersect was the best choice, and always after knitting on the RS (WS is always a “knit even” row so no chance of the life line getting tangled in cabling). A life saver for sure!
Your suggestion of using one on the sleeve before beginning decrease (and making note of where in the pattern) is a good one. I will definitely do that.
Great advice. Thank you.