Raglan pattern on sirdar 1815

I am knitting a cardigan on Sirdar pattern 1815.

I am now in the part of shaping the neck and raglans. The pattern knits back and fronts in one piece and then picks up the sleeves.

I am struggling with the raglan part. I have tried writing it out to get a pattern to follow but just making a mess of it. Can someone give me some tips/help please?

The pattern shows the first 6 rows for this and then says to

work 13 rows dec 1 st at neck edges as before in next and every following 4th row AT SAME TIME dec 1 st at raglan seams as before in next and every foll alt row.

The last row which is making the raglan is
Patt12, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt29, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2 tog, patt12 (111 stitches)

I have to get down to 47 sts.

Thanks for any help

1 Like

Hi and welcome!

Call the next row, row 1. Decrease at the neck edge on rows 1,5,9,13,17 and so on. Decrease at the raglans on rows 1,3,5,7,9,11 etc. Continue with both kinds of decreases until you get to 47sts.
Really sweet pattern.

If I can add a humble suggestion, as I am definitely no expert, based on what Salmonmac said, you could use pen and paper to mark each of the rows and indicate beside each row what you have to do. As you do it, tick off the row. If you are doing both types of decreases you will see two ticks, if only one type, just one. I keep a book expressly for this purpose. I have a top down knit sweater I’ve made a few times now, but I still use my book to write up all the increases and decreases for each row… It helps keep me sane…:wink:. Trying to use two row counters is too complicated for my small brain…:rofl::rofl::rofl:. Hope I haven’t caused more confusion…

2 Likes

Hi salmonmac and Spurs

Thank you for your help - much appreciated! Going to give it another go.

Take care and stay safe

1 Like

Hi bigpastamomma, how did you get on with this? I’m at this stage now and I don’t know where to start. I have 111 stitches and have to get down to 47. Libby

You need to follow the decreases for the neck edge and the raglan decreases as you work across the rows.

“Call the next row, row 1. Decrease at the neck edge on rows 1,5,9,13,17 and so on. Decrease at the raglans on rows 1,3,5,7,9,11 etc. Continue with both kinds of decreases until you get to 47sts.”
If that isn’t clear just let us know. Good luck with it!

Hi I’m too stuck on this part I get the whole alternative rows but am I using the “patt12, s1,k1” etc throughout until I reach 47 sts? Obviously alternating between rows for neck edge and raglan seams. Hope this makes sense?

Welcome to KH!
Patt12, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt29, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2 tog, patt12 (111 stitches)
This row?
If so you’re working the decreases at the neck edge every 4 rows and the raglan decreases every other row. Those raglan decreases are really going to decrease the stitch count quickly since there are 8 decreases every other row at the raglan seams. With the neck decreases every 4th row that part of the sweater should won’t take very many repeats.
The stitch count between decreases will change of course but you should be able to follow the line of raglan decreases. A marker either side of the k1 may also help as a reminder.

Hi, which ones are the neck decreases and which ones are the raglan decreases

The raglan decreases have been made from the beginning of the armhole shaping. Since the back and fronts are knit as one piece there should be a point where the back is separated from the fronts. The raglan decreases should start soon after that division and be on the armhole edge.

The neck edge is going to be at the split between the fronts. It’s where buttonbands will be placed on either side of the front opening.


This page has a nice diagram.
For this row, for example, the decreases are at the 4 raglans:
Patt12, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt29, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, patt 23, s1, k1, psso, k1, k2 tog, patt12

1 Like