Picking up Mistaken Rib pattern after previous row decreases

Hi all,
I am having real challenges maintaining my Mistaken Rib pattern in the rows after decreases have been made. The Mistaken Rib pattern is a 2 row repeat: Row 1 is K2 P2 all the way to the end Row 2 is P1, K2,P2 all the way to the last 3 stitches, then K2, P1. All is fine until the decrease which happen in the underarm section of the top down shell. I am finding it very difficult to “continue in pattern” after dealing with the decrease from the previous row. Any thoughts or tips and tricks? This is the Top Down Tee by Rebecca Airmet.

Any suggestions are welcome-

I find that the easiest way to see mistake rib is to look for the stockinette and reverse stockinette columns viewed from the public or outside of the tee.
One column has the Vs or knit sts on the public side. There’s a column of garter and then a column of bumps or purl sts on the public side followed by a column of garter. Once you can see these columns you have a guide to continue the mistake rib.
V-garter-P bump-garter-V-garter-P bump-garter-V
V-garter-P bump-garter-V-garter-P bump-garter-V
V-garter-P bump-garter-V-garter-P bump-garter-V

Salmonmac,
I don’t understand - the mistake rib is based on K2, P2 but you answer appears to reference K1, P1 - what am I missing?

When you work the K2P2 and then offset it on the next row (the P1 followed by K2P2) you interrupt the rib pattern so that you don’t get a pure K2P2 rib. Instead there’s a pattern of 4sts but only 2 of the columns align. There’s a column of Vs every 4sts seen from one side and a column of purls (easier to see if you flip to the wrong side where they appear as Vs).

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Okay, I get that - my question, though is how to keep the Mistake Rib in pattern AFTER decreasing in the previous row. It’s very difficult to know how to compensate for the K3tog decrease and still stay in pattern.

Yes, that’s often a problem. You can either subtract the 3 sts involved in the decrease from the written pattern row or make the decrease then look at the next line of Vs and count back naming the sts to figure out which stitch comes next.
So if the row starts K2P2K2P2 subtracting the first 3sts would tell you that the next stitch is a P1.
If you look at the same row K2P2K2P2 the first 3sts are taken up in the decrease, the next stitch is a P1 and the next is part of the column of Vs. Count back from the V to get to the P1.
Either was works. It’s just which you prefer.

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Salmonmac,
Thank you - I’ll give that a go! (Fingers crossed!)

Claudia

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If it still isn’t working, maybe posting a photo of the stitches will help along with the next pattern row.

When I have a pattern I need to continue after decreases I use stitch markers. I set them in a few stitches away from the total number I’m going to decrease at either end and then work forwards or backwards from that point.

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I think I have decided I need to rip out the rows of displaced pattern, but, for the life of me, I cannot bring myself to do it because I am afraid I wont be able to figure out how to put the live stitches back on the circular needle. The Mistake rib is straightforward when actually knitting it, but undoing it is another thing altogether.

By the way, this is the front, which looks worse than the back…
Help!IMG_1545

The part that’s in register looks beautiful, more like brioche than mistake rib. It’s worth taking the sts out.

You might try this variation on inserting a lifeline. It’ll be a little trickier for you since you don’t have pure knit and purl columns. You’ll need to spread out the 3sts between the knits in order to make sure you’ve got them all and then count the total to double check. This way no stitches leave the needle without a lifeline to hold onto.

(See especially 2:30min)

Have you tried charting the pattern?

Something like this:

PPKKPPKKPPKKPPKK
PKKPPKKPPKKPPKKP
PPKKPPK - - PKKPPKK
PKKPPKK - - KKPPKKP
PPKKPPK - - PKKPPKK
PKKPPK - - - - KPPKKP
PPKKPP - - - - KKPPKK

And here is a video about inserting your needle before ripping back.

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When I get frog anxiety I out a life line in earlier than I need it, a row or 2 before, this is partly because I worry about missing some stitches or putting my life line out of row (I have done this). I don’t mind so much being out of row if it is earlier than what I want to undo. Its my lack of skill of doing a life line correctly.
Then I tink back the last row or 2. Yes it sounds like a lot but I have discovered tinking can be very useful. As I go along I learn more about the stitches because I’m reading the fabric, and in a way it helps me move forward in a more experienced and knowledgeable way when I start knitting again.

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Creations,
I appreciate your thoughtful suggestion. With 160 stitches per round and probably 10 rounds, I just cannot face tinking it all.

I am going to gingerly try inserting the life line using the video instructions Salmonmac has suggested. I will keep you all posted!

Oh I didn’t mean tink 10 rounds, I aim for one or two rows higher than where I need.

But, you will get the life line in the correct place. I’m sure it’s only me who gets them out of line anyway!

It’s worth the effort. Good luck

Creations,
After trying to insert a lifeline 3 times, I have given up and am tinking back to where the decrease row is and will try to do it correctly this time. I am pretty certain I can figure out what went wrong by paying close attention to that row when I tink it.

I have tinked 5 rows so far. The prospect of 5-6 more is not so bad. What would be a bummer is if I tink all the way back and CAN’T figure out how to do it right…

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Ugh, this is so painful but it’s better than losing stitches. If you’re in doubt about where to pick up the pattern, post a photo and we’ll try to help. Jo_Hamlett’s suggestion of a marker a repeat or two into the row is a good way count backwards, naming the sts until you get to the first stitch on the needle or to the decrease. Then you know what stitch to start with.
Adding llifelines as you knit, every couple of inches is much easier. You’re just threading through the sts on the needle.


Hope this goes well. We’ve all (sadly) been is similar situations.

Some joyful music and a meditative mind helps on these long tinking sessions.
I always tell myself I would not mind knitting forward another 5 rows so why mind knitting backwards 5 rows… it helps me anyway.

I like all the ideas given by everyone so far on how to get back into the stitch pattern after the decreases.
A couple of things popped into my mind last night after I had gone to bed!
They may or may not help, worth saying them just in case

  1. When you decrease there is a stitch that has been worked sitting on the right needle. Don’t forget this stitch when counting out the stitch pattern.
    (A few times I have done a decrease then slipped the stitch back onto the left needle whilst I work out the pattern, name each stitch, then slip it to the right needle as it doesn’t need working again, but as I do I say aloud what stitch it is)
  2. You could place a marker where the decreases have been made and mark this marker with the number of stitches decreased so that you can glare at it and call out the names of those absent stitches before moving to the next live stitch. A piece of yarn as a marker with a long tail and 3 knots in the tail can denote 3 dec stitches for example. You can touch each knot and say the name of the stitch. Or a single removable marker on the needle with 3 removable markers hanging off it to denote 3 stitches removed).

If it’s any help I got stuck for several days on a lace pattern panel where I repeatedly counted to 3 instead of 4. I couldn’t believe I couldn’t count to 4!! I got there in the end.
With all, the lovely pieces you’ve knitted we all know you can over come this glitch.

Creations and Salmonmac,
You are the kindest, most thoughtful people ever! I will try all suggestions, put in a lifeline and keep my fingers crossed.

Thank you!

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We will too! It’s going to be a terrific looking top.