Picking Up Arm Hole Stitches

I’m at the stage of picking up the arm hole stitches to knit the sleeves (knitted from the top down) however, the pattern simply states

“Start at the bottom edge and pick up 28 sts from one end and 28 sts from the other = 56 sts. Work stockinette st in the round.”

I have doubled the stitch count from the pattern (so for me I need to pick up 56 stitches, 112 in total)

However no matter which way I try, I either have too many stitches, or not enough. I have tried various golden ratio amounts, and it’s the same problem. Even picking up the stitches from the work (which to me that’s what the pattern says as it doesn’t say “Pick up and knit”

What might be a good method or a way around this? Although the photos aren’t helpful, it’s a drop shoulder cardigan, which comes down very low. There’s no decreasing on the armholes, just the neckline.

Pattern Link - Novita Taiga Cardigan

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I would use pu&k, but that’s me. How far off is your stitch count? On the first round you you can work increases or decreases to adjust to the correct number of stitches. It would be good to try to keep the count on the front and back edges the same.

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Did you double the stitch count to make it bigger?
I’m just thinking that doubling the stitch count doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve doubled the row count (length) and these stitches around the arm need to equal, in width, the height of the arm hole.
I think you need to know how big your arm hole is and then work out how many stitches fit into this size.

If you go back to your gauge swatch, or use the cardigan fabric to measure by, you can see how many stitches per 10 cm.

As there is no shaping it will be relatively easy to calculate.
Does that make sense?

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If I was to pick up every stitch, I would need to decrease about 14. That might be doable, the pattern says to decrease 1 stitch after 3cm, I need to decrease 2 stitches after that, I could start before…hmm I’ll have to do some maths

Ahh my mistake, no. Yarn substitution. I’m using a much fine yarn than was used in the pattern. For the needle size and yarn, my gauge is double the stitches for the correct sizing. The arm hole is 20cm, however that’s straight up and down.

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Right OK. You might sill want to check the stitch count against your row gauge though, unless both your stutch and row gauge were the same as the pattern stated.

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The pattern row gauge is 18sts mine is 32sts so It would make sense I would have less than 56 sts. The main thing is trying to work out if I’m meant to pick up every stitch or skip certain sts with the golden ratio, I guess that would depend on how the sts are picked up?

Do you have 32 sts per 10 cm?
If so, what is the measurement from underarm to shoulder in cm and how many rows did you work for this?

So I have 30sts and 32rows. From the under arm to the top of the shoulder is 20cm which was over 64 rows. The finial measurement is approx 22 - 23cm, the extra few cm accounts for the bind off (on every other row) for the shoulder seam

What happens when you pick up 3sts for every 4 rows? Is it just the stitch count that isn’t what you would like or does the sleeve top pull at the armhole or puff and ripple? I wouldn’t be so concerned about stitch count over structure of the join of sleeve to armhole opening.

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I agree! My first major project and I dive right in with buying a pure silk cardigan, unravelling it, reusing the yarn and going with a pattern that’s vague! It’s worth it!

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So a ratio of 3sts for every 4 (which is what I did for the border all the way across the front edge which is perfect) I’m left with too many sts. I haven’t actually tried working the sts to pick them up I’ve been counting them to see what I’m left with. As for puffing and rippling that wouldn’t happen till I’ve finished the cardigan, I’m using pure silk yarn which I’ve unravelled, so of course it’s very limp till it’s seen water (I’ve been spray blocking certain sections which are too limp with no tension in the yarn itself)

Even though it says to pick up 27 sts, it should be alright to differ from that? As long as it’s even etc

Yes, don’t be bound by the stitch numbers here. If your front border worked out to the pattern stitch number that’s fantastic (mine almost never does). If 3sts for 4rows worked there it will work here regardless of the pattern number or compensation for yarn weight. All you really care about is having a well-fitting sleeve without tightness or buckle.

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I agree! Looking at the photo I believe the top of the sleeve (picked up from the arm hole) is meant to be the same diameter as the arm hole for a seamless transition in terms of fit. I am very small myself so I don’t want it too baggy around the arms but I don’t want it too tight as it will pucker and look out of shape when it’s worn. I think it might be a case of picking up sts, working them and seeing about the sizing.

I was aiming to stay close to the pattern due to the finished sizing of it. I do intend on making the length shorter, again to fit me…so many extra sts won’t matter too much as I’ll be starting decreasing early (before the 3cm that’s stated in the pattern) so the cuff isn’t too wide on me

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Keep us updated on your progress. I hope it goes well!

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I will thankyou! The decrease on the sleeve is very detailed, I may be able to work out how many sts I need roughly from that, although it gives a sleeve length I might be able to work it out, I’ll add some photos to the post aswell. After another search on the pattern I did see that someone else has knitted it up and his sleeves are very lovely…I’ve messaged him asking what he did.

The saving grace is, it’s a very relaxed fit all over. If I’m ever feeling brave I may re write the pattern so it’s knitted in separate pieces, with a higher shoulder and more tailored, it would be lovely knitted in linen.

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For a 20 cm arm hole the stitch count (based on your gauge of 30 sts per 10cm) would be 60 sts (total 120), and for the 22 cm armhole it would be 66 sts (total 132) which is more than doubling the stitches the pattern gives and it is also quite a lot more than you will get on working 3 stitches for every 4 rows (which will be around 48 sts or total 96).
Based on your gauge you’d be picking up in almost very row (60 out of the 64 rows or if you include the extra 2 cm on having at the shoulder 66 sts over total rows which might also be 66).

However I agree that if a ratio of 3 sts to 4 rows has worked well elsewhere on your project then it should also work here.

Good luck!

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Exactly this, it’s a choice of picking up every stitch (as you said, being 66 stitches on one side) or the golden ratio of 3sts to every 4. I have just tried that and my stitch count is 53, it seemed to work well and look to be the right size (after 5 rounds it went wrong so it got frogged) the border ratio has worked well so you and other people are correct with sticking with it. I think I’d rather it be smaller and stretch out, then too big and stretch out even more.

My main worry is it being even on the seam. I also think I didn’t pick the sts up in the right place as the end sts weren’t happy!

I am using a needle that’s a fraction too big for this yarn, but that’s intentional for a slightly looser fabric so I can wear it when it’s warmer rather then being just a winter knit!

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You might try a smaller needle just for the pick up row as that first row tends to have more yarn in it.
There’s a method where you can add in a finer thread along with your yarn on the pick up and knit part and then use the thread to guide you in tightening up the pick up row after you have worked several rows away from it. I don’t know what this is called and can’t remember who made the video I saw it on (so I’m jot much help!) . The additional thread is a visual guide so you can ease out each extra bit of yarn towards the tail end. Then the extra thread can be removed.
I have done this in one of my sweaters and then totally forgot about it for another and wish I’d remembered as it does result in a neater join.

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Ahhh that’s very clever!! If I can find it I’ll do a form post for it. I often wonder if knitting today, is more about the hacks to make it easier than anything else :laughing: