Pattern Trouble

Okay I have tried this already got to row 6 and got frustrated cause apparently its not wide enough, and I also don’t know exactly when to purl, it confuses me with that. So if anyone can give me an easier explanation of this pattern it would be awesome.(I’m also only using 2 colors instead of 3 but that’s not a problem I understand how to do that part. I’m also planning on making it a bit longer cause I think its a little to short especially since my fiance is 6’3" haha)

[B]Throw measures approximately 51" x 59"[/B]

[B]Circular Knitting Needle:[/B] 6mm [US 10] -29". Yarn needle

[B]GAUGE:[/B] 1 Chevron = 4 1/4" across; 12 rows = 2 1/2" in pattern [B]CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size needle to obtain the gauge[/B]

With [B]A[/B], cast on 204 sts. Do not join, but work back and forth in rows as follows:

[B]Foundation Row (Wrong Side):[/B] * K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso; repeat from * across - 12 chevrons.

[B]Row 2:[/B] Knit

[B]Rows 3 and 4:[/B] with [B]B[/B], Knit.

[B]Rows 5 and 7:[/B] With [B]A[/B], * K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso; repeat from * across.

[B]Rows 6 and 8:[/B] With [B]A[/B], Purl.

[B]Rows 9 and 10:[/B] With [B]C[/B], Knit.

[B]Rows 11 and 14:[/B] With [B]A[/B], repeat Rows 5-8

Repeat rows 3-14 twenty two more times, then repeat Rows 3 and 4 with [B]B[/B] then Row 5 with [B]A[/B].
K3 Rows with [B]A[/B]. Bind off.

Weave in ends on wrong side with yarn needle.

ok I just sat here and re read the pattern, now i get the purl and knit part but I still don’t understand why my pattern is a little short, it will line up now but at the end it gets cut off… I guess for my first project its not going to be perfect but I’m still curious how I ran short when I followed the directions…

Is there a border? I’m stumped, it would appear what you’ve put down is just the chevron and K2tog as a start to any row is not something that is… usual and customary. I’m just thinking that the first few stitches on any row should be the border. Is there a link to this pattern or even a picture of it?

Check how you do YOs, they just add a stitch and don’t use one. Wrap the yarn around the needle, not wrap [B]and[/B] knit 1. So when you do Row 1 - K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso; - you’ll have a single stitch between the YOs, then 6 sts then the decrease.

If you do a K1 after the YOs, you use up a stitch and don’t have enough to do the right number of repeats.

The pattern count works for me.

204 stitches= 12 repeats of 17 stitches

K2tog-a decr of one so=1st
yo=1st (add one stitch by bring yarn forward under needle, over top & back to make next stitch)
sl 1, K1, psso-a decr of one so=1 st

One thing that helps me keep count is using waste yarn as markers. I put a strip of whatever extra yarn I have lying around at the beginning of a repeat. Work the stitch pattern. Then go back & check that I have correct number of loops on the needle. I do that for every repeat (you can reuse the yarn bits.) So if I do mess up my count, I catch it right away.

I will try to get you a picture, the pattern is just a free one I got from ACMoore so I will have to search for the picture.

here is the page for the pattern I’m doing.

and here is another link for it but you need Adobe to view it.

I don’t have a problem with YO’s I can do them ok :slight_smile:

Then you’re missing something somehow. There’s no border sts so you just work the pattern across all the sts. Do one repeat of the pattern - K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso - place a marker, do another repeat, place marker, etc all the way across. You should have 12 repeats. Also check that you cast on the correct number, that will throw you off.

Another thing you can do is a practice sample with some other yarn; cast on 34 or 51 sts for 2 or 3 repeats and see if you come out right with the smaller number. You get to the end of the row faster and may be able to tell where you get off count.

And… after you’ve done a row and don’t have enough sts, you can look at the beginning and [I]name[/I] your sts instead of counting them - dec, 6 knits, yo, k, yo, 6 knits, dec, etc. that can help you find what’s off.

I need border some how cause the Ktog was going to make me have a triangular blanket if I started out with it, so for the boarder how many stitches should I do? should it just be 1 or 2? cause it doesn’t tell me…that’s the only other question I have :slight_smile: the rest I pretty much have down.

The pattern will probably look good without a border. You have to knit a few inches to see it develop. But reading over that directions, the edge will look something like this.


it was going down hill if i started with the ktog. so I need to at least knit 1 before the ktog.

No it doesn’t. You have increases across the row that offset the k2togs so it comes out a square shape. A border wouldn’t have anything to do with preventing a triangle shape anyway, it’s the shaping in the row that determines the shape, not the edge sts.

Just follow the pattern as written and it will come out fine. As I said before, cast on 34 sts to try a few rows on a smaller number of stitches. You’ll see how it works out then.

I have a practiced piece and the edge comes out all funny from the k2tog the rows were slowly going in on the edge.

Making a border of k1 on each end is not going to make the edge straight, it’s how you do the increases and decreases. Did you make sure to do the 2 YOs on every row you did the k2tog? Do you have the same number of stitches you started with? You should, the decs (k2tog, skp) will be balanced by the 2 YOs every 17 sts.

You would knit “K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso, K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso, K2tog, K6, yo, K1, yo, K6, sl 1, K1, psso” across that row. So you have dec, k6, inc k1, inc, k6, dec, dec, k6, inc k1, inc, k6 dec on the row.

Sue is right. The pattern is written with no border and if you are doing the pattern as you should it will be square and not turn into a triangle. The stitch you lose with K2tog at the beginning of each zig-zag(including the one right at the edge) is replaced by the first YO and the stitch you lose by doing the slip one stitch, K1, pass the slipped stitch over is replaced by the other YO you do.

So each part of the pattern uses 17 stitches and when you finish each part of the pattern you will have 17 stitches on the right hand needle (RHN) as well. The stitch markers folks have mentioned are a good idea if you are having trouble. Work the first pattern repeat and place a marker on the RHN. Count the number of stitches on the RHN. Do you have 17? If so proceed, if not you missed something in that section. Use Sues idea of naming the steps over the stitches in a section if you don’t have 17 when you are done. Tink back and fix it. Keep working that way all the way across and do it all the time until you have your problem solved.

I was going to suggest Sue’s idea of a small swatch of this pattern over 34 stitches, too. Work on just the 34 over at least one whole pattern repeat until you can get it to work out perfectly. Be sure you have 34 after every row, even use a marker between the two repeats and watch the 17 carefully. Did you say you can get it to work out right on a small sample, but messes up when you tackle the afghan? If so it is a matter of care and vigilance. It can be a pain in the neck when you have this many stitches that are worked in a pattern stitch, but each repeat needs each stitch in the right place all the time, or it won’t give a very satisfying result.

I hope you get it worked out. It sounds like you are making progress in addressing the problem. This will be a wonderful gift from the heart for your boy friend. :thumbsup:

ok it seems to be going ok now :slight_smile: turned out I was messing up my yo and getting an extra stitch.

Good to hear you’ve got it figured out.