Pattern translation 2!

#1

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
PATTERN FROM: http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/freeKnittingPatternTwinLeafBeadedScarf.asp

Pattern:
* CO 22 sts
* Row 1 P10, PB, k1, PB, k1, P10.
* ** all following WS rows P10, k2, P10.
* Row 2 K6, DD, yo, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, yo, SK2P, k6.
* Row 4 K4, DD, k1, [yo, k1] twice, p2, k1, [yo, k1] twice, SK2P, k4.
* Row 6 K2, DD, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, SK2P, k2.
* Row 8 PB, DD, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, PB, SK2P.
* ** Repeat rows 1-8 until desired length. Bind Off.

My Translation:
Cast On 22 stitches

Row 1: PurlX10, knitX2, PurlX10.

Row 2: KnitX6, Double Decrease, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, purlX2, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, SK2P, knitX6.

Row 4: KnitX4, Double Decrease, knitX1, [yarn over, knitX1]X2, purlX2, knitX1, [yarn over, knitX1]X2, SK2P, knitX4.

Row 6: KnitX2, Double Decrease, knitX2, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, knitX2, purlX2, knitX2, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, knitX2, SK2P, knitX2.

Row 8: Double Decrease, knitX3, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, knitX3, purlX2, knitX3, yarn over, knitX1, yarn over, knitX3, SK2P.

Repeat rows 1-8 until desired length. Bind Off.

ADAPTIONS/NOTES OF PATTERN:
I have removed the ‘place bead’ as I will put no beads on this pattern.
Yarn over =wrap wool around needle
Double Decrease = transfer 2 stitches directly on other needle, <k1>, put the 2 slipped stitches over the <k1,k st-2 sts dec>.
SK2P= slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the one that has knitted 2 together.

STITCH TOTAL (R=row):
R1:22
R2:23
R4:23
R6:23
R8:23

Just to check my understanding, a double decrease =2 stitches, SK2P=1 stitch.

QUESTIONS/QUERIES
On this pattern, I have noticed a couple of things that have confused me. They have been noted by the <…> as brackets. I know k1 =knit one, but in a decrease, do you knit the next stitch on? Can someone describe a double decrease in english and in VERY simple terms please?
Also, what has happened to row 3, 5 and 7?
~Phoenix~
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#2

I’m pasting from the pattern:

[ul]
[li]CO 22 sts[/li][li]Row 1 P10, PB, k1, PB, k1, P10.[/li][li][COLOR=Red]** all following WS rows P10, k2, P10.[/COLOR][/li][li]Row 2 K6, DD, yo, k1, yo, p2, yo, k1, yo, SK2P, k6.[/li][li]Row 4 K4, DD, k1, [yo, k1] twice, p2, k1, [yo, k1] twice, SK2P, k4.[/li][li]Row 6 K2, DD, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, SK2P, k2.[/li][li]Row 8 PB, DD, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, PB, SK2P.[/li][li]** Repeat rows 1-8 until desired length. Bind Off.[/ul]The line I put in [COLOR=Red]red[COLOR=Black] shows you what to do with rows 3, 5, 7 etc. [/li]
The double decrease (DD) takes 3 stitches and makes them into 1 stitch, just as the SK2P does. They’re just done a bit differently in order to change the way the completed stitch leans. For both decreases, you need to slip the stitches knitwise, in other words, put your right needle into the stitch as if to knit it, but don’t knit it, just slide it off the left needle. This changes the orientation of the stitch- turns it around on the needle.

In the double decrease, you’ll slip 2 stitches together knitwise, which will both change the orientation of the stitches and change the order- the left one will now be on the right. Then you’ll knit the next stitch on your left needle, then once it is on your right needle, you’ll pass the 2 slipped stitches over it and off the right needle- turning 3 stitches into 1.

Did that answer all your questions?
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#3

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
Abbily -yes! I think that it now makes sense. I think that you have put it a lot more sensibly than I thought. Thankyou so much!!!
~Phoenix~[/COLOR][/I][/B][/FONT]

#4

No problem. :slight_smile: Good luck!

#5

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
Abbily - An update on my progress with the lace pattern, it is working and looks quite good on my small metal needles (first bought set, secondhand from a charity shop, and bent as I was working on my first project -they are almost circular needles now!!!:roflhard:).

Anyway, my work -looks good on the tight needles, am hoping to transfer/knit into my brittany wooden needles (bigger size) to see how it is. I will hopefully put attachments on here so that you can see any problems before I use the yellow (?baby/lightweight) version for the full scarf.

(Reason for the yellow wool: it was lying around in my carrier bag of wool for many years. I used to make friendship bracelets before I got into knitting. Yellow as a colour also doesnt suit me, so I cant make anything for myself. A pale yellow scarf would be an awesome present for someone else. Hence the reason for attempting/doing a pretty lace style pattern). Hopefully the yellow wool will provide a better definition to the lace than the thicker purple test wool.

~Phoenix~[/COLOR][/I][/B][/FONT]

#6

Phoenix, I can’t wait to see your scarf! :slight_smile:

#7

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
Hehe! Abbily -I’m still on the purple swatch/test thing. But when I have finished it I should take pics and put it up. Hehe!

On a completely separate topic, but it just fits…
I have made a simple scarf out of the most softest, thickest and most gorgeous colour blue wool. Its extra wide and is so great. (Thick wooden needles that look like they are about to start a fire hehe! -Yet another Brittany brand!) It is about 3 balls of 100g wool. I am thinking of putting an extra ball of wool on it as it seems too small length wise. Its like a scarf/shawl combi. So lovely.
Can you frog just the cast off row?
~Phoenix~[/COLOR][/I][/B][/FONT]

#8

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
I have noticed that the ends of the scarf create a sort of shale effect. It looks good and I really like it. But -is it meant to do that? Or have I just made it look really nice through sheer begginers luck/fluke?
~Phoenix~
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#9

Absolutely! Just do it all backwards, carefully picking up all the stitches as you go along. You might want to frog back one more row, just to make sure you have enough tail for joining the new yarn. Don’t worry too much about the orientation of the stitches as you’re picking them up, just make sure to get them all on the needle. Then once you’re knitting them, make sure they are oriented correctly before you knit each stitch- if you don’t, the world will not end, but you may see a tiny twist in the stitches. :slight_smile:

#10

Feather and fan does have a nice scalloped edge, it’s just the nature of the pattern. :slight_smile:

#11

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
Abbily -That sounds great. I can continue with my midnight blue scarf so it is thick and long! (pictures myself wearing the scarf with a still-to-do material coat, sitting inside with a cup of tea). Its great that fan and feather does that for both experienced knitters and a newbie… means I’m doing some of the pattern right!!! :woot:

Abbily -what are you working on at the moment?

~Phoenix~
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#12

I’m working on “falling in love” socks, a bevin tank, a cabled sweater that started out as a pull-over, but I’ve decided to make it a cardigan instead so it’s on hold while I figure that out. Next in line are several gifts- a mohair scarf, two hats, a pair of slipper socks and several other scarves.

That first link will only work for you if you’re on ravelry- and if you’re not, you should be. :slight_smile: It’s a great resource.

#13

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey All,
I have heard about Ravelry, there are loads of lovely patterns I want to try, but many of them look like they are for advanced knitters with strange and bizarre methods of knitting that I can barely imagine, let alone do!
Is it really that scary for a beginner knitter?
~Phoenix~
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#14

Yeah, some patterns really are scary for a beginner- but what I’ve learned is, once you have the basic things down, just jump into something you like. :slight_smile: It’s really hard to visualize when you’re reading knitting patterns, but most of the time they work out if you just do it. And if you need help, we’re always here! :slight_smile: Post your questions here like you have been, or you’re welcome to pm me anytime. I get on here a lot. :slight_smile:

#15

As long as you know how to purl, knit, decrease and increase you can do any pattern. They’re all just variations of those basic techniques. Just take a pattern one stitch at a time, one row at a time.

#16

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”] Hey All,
Another couple of swatch pictures. This time doing the Purl stitch correctly Focus on the pinker bit.
I have decided that my aluminium needles (size 12/2.75mmish) are too small and give bad definition to the lace and my wooden (size 10.75/7.00mmish) are too big and give too much definition.

What would you think would be a good size for this pattern? I should be using erm… fingering/baby wool type.
~Phoenix~
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#17

That’s a big jump from 2.75mm to 7 mm. Something in the range of 4 to 6mm would be okay.

#18

[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”] Hey All,
I have bought 4.00mm needles (birch), I will see how they are for pattern defination! Thanks for your assistance.
~Phoenix~
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