Pattern Help - Work Even vs Work Straight?

How-to Questions
1

Hi there,

I’m fairly new to knitting but I’m finding my way around. I’m following a pattern that states as follows:

" *Dec 1 st at each edge of next RS row, work 3
rows even, dec 1 st at each edge of next RS row,
work 1 row even rep from * to * another 7 times.
*Then dec 1 st at each edge of next RS row, work 3
rows straight rep from * to * another 5 times."

I know that when it says to “work 3 rows even” it means to knit those 3 rows in the normal stitch pattern without any decreases or increases. However it has thrown me off where it states to “work 3 rows straight”

Do “work even” and “work straight” just mean the same thing?

Thanks in advance! :smiley:

2

That is confusing. Yes, they mean the same thing. Why the designer chose to mix the terms in one place is a mystery.
What is the name of your pattern?

3

Thank you for your help :slight_smile:

The pattern is over on this website: Openwork Jumper in Bergere de France Cabourg - 18 - Downloadable PDF | LoveCrafts

I’ve attached a screenshot of the first page to make it easier for you to see :slight_smile:

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4

I’m still really stuck with this unfortunately :confused:

Would someone be able to draw up a pattern diagram of what I need to knit for the ‘decrease’ section.
I am following the instruction for making a Large sized sweater.

I have gotten as far as doing the 2 rows with the cast offed stitches but don’t know how to proceed. I have attached a diagram of what I have done so far for the first to rows of the arm hole to make sure I haven’t done these wrong.

My problem is, no matter how I decipher the pattern instructions I can’t seem to get the yarn overs to line up (like in the lace diagram in the original pattern) which is essential for getting the lace ‘zig zag’ to continue properly.

I really am confused :confused:

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5

The best way to approach this is to “read” your knitting. You’re doing that already by being able to tell that the yo’s aren’t aligned. Look at any yarn over near the beginning of the row and two rows below and figure out where that aligns to the current sts on the needle. Then you can count backwards to the beginning of the row to determine how to start out. A yo won’t use up a stitch so you just need to count what I presume are 2 sts for each decrease.

6

I might have figured it out. The main thing confusing me is:

On the first 2 rows of raglan is says to work the first & last 3 stitches as st st (so knit for the RS rows).

Do I just do this for those first 2 rows or do I keep doing this for the ‘work even’ rows between the decrease rows?

7

Keep the first and last 3 sts in st st along the raglan. If you look at the photo, you can see the raglan line in st st. It’ll also make seaming, if this is seamed, easier.

8

Brilliant, thank you , that has really helped :smiley:

So just to check, for the next RS after the decrease, my stitches should look something like:

K3 | K2 yfwd, k2tog K1 | K3

9

Yes to the first and last 3 in st st.
If the sts between those edges line up correctly with previous rows, then that should be correct.

10

Thank you for your help!

I’m still struggling to get my yarn overs to line up based on the pattern, not sure what I’m doing wrong :confused:
Think I’m just going to have to go away and have a think about what’s best to do. Might have to try printing off the lace pattern and marking off the changes on the border to see what’s left to knit in the middle :confused:

Thank you for your help though, you’ve helped to clear a few things up :smiley:

11

Printing out the chart and crossing off the decreased sts should work. Remember too that if you can’t work a k2tog or ssk, don’t work it’s accompanying yarn over. You don’t want to work a decrease and then add in a yarn over since that will maintain the stitch count, not give you a decrease.

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