Patons fairtytale baby hat, mitterns and bootee set

hi every one here is a new patten that i am starting and i do not understand most well maybe all:

patons fairttale dk
2 x 50 grams balls
pair of 4mm (uk8) needles
1 button

Tension
22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm(stocking stitch) on 4 mm needles or size needed to achieve stared tension.

check your tension before starting. if there are too many stitche to 10 cm, yhour tension is too tight and you should change to a larger size needle. if there are too few, your tension is loose and you should change to a smaller size needle. it is essential to work to the stated tension and we cannot accept tesponsiblity for the finished product if any other yarn than the enclose yarn is used.

abbreviations
[B]K[/B]=knit: P=purl; cm=centimetres; mm=millimetres; st(s)=stitch(es);
top=togetrher; foll=folowing; alt=aternate; sl1k=slip 1 st knitways; psso=pass splpped st over; rs= right side; rep=repeat; dec= decreas(ing); rem=remaining; yon= yarn over needle; beg= beginning

hat
cast on 81 sts. (this i understand)
ROW 1
(rs) - k1,*p1,k1, rep from * to end . ( do not know what * means) not in the instructions
Row 2
p1, *k1, rep from * to end .
these 2 rows form rib.
working a further 16 rows in rib, endoing with rs facing for next row.
next row - knit
next row - purl
thise 2 rows form stocking st. ( what is this )
work a futher 30 rows in stocking st, ending with rs facing for next row

i will jus t put this up for now . will put the rest up when i finish work

In patterns it’s common to use * to mark the section that will be repeated. You’re doing k1, p1 ribbing, but since it’s over an odd number of sts there’s an extra one. So with Row 1, you start with a knit st and repeat p1, k1 across the row. You left out part of row 2, which should be P1, then repeat k1, p1 across the row. Repeat these 2 rows until you have 18 rows. Then you knit the next row and purl the row after that. Alternating knit and purl rows gives you stocking st, the same as stockinette.

yes you were righti did leave someo of it out i was rushing to daY TO get to work i was going to put up the rest of it but it wouldtalk too long for now m i am going to scan it into the computer and just copy and paste it which would be easier.
i have tried to start this a few times and the needle keeps falling out of my hand

HERE IS A COPY AND PASTE JOB:

Patons Fairytale DK 2 X 50gram balls
Pair of 4mm (UK8) needles .1 Button
Tension
22 sts and 30 rows to lOcm (stocking stitch) on 4mm needles or size needed to achieve stated tension.
Check your tension before starting. If there are too many stitches to lOcm, your tension is too tight and you should change to a larger size needle. If there are too few, your tension is loose and you should change to a smaller size needle. It is essential to work to the stated tension and we cannot accept responsibility for the finished product if any other yarn than the enclosed yarn
is used.
Abbreviations
K=knit; P=purl; cm=centimetres; mm=millimetres; st(s)= stitch(es); tog=together; foll=following; alt=alternate; sl1K=slip 1 st knitways; psso=pass slipped st over; RS=right side; rep=repeat; dec=decreas(ing); rem=remaining; yon=yarn over needle; beg=beginning
HAT
Cast on 81 sts.
Row 1 (RS) - Kl, * Pl, Kl, rep from * to end.
Row 2 - Pl, * Kl, Pl, rep from * to end. These 2 rows form rib.
Work a further 16 rows in rib, ending with RS facing for next row.
Next row - Knit.
Next row - Purl.
These 2 rows form stocking st.
Work a further 30 rows in stocking st, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape crown
Row 1 - Kl, * K2tOg, K8, rep from * to end. 73 sts.
Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
Row 3 - Kl, * K2tOg, K7, rep from * to end. 65 sts.
Row 5 - Kl, *K2tOg, K6, rep from * to end. 57 sts.
Cont to dec this way until 17 sts rem, ending with RS faci ng for next row.
Next row - Kl, (K2tOg) 8 times.
9 sts.
Break yarn and thread through rem sts.
Right ear flap and strap Cast on 15 sts.
Work 6 rows in rib, ending with RS facing for next row.
Next row (RS) - K2tOg, rib to last 2 sts, K2tog. 13 sts.
Work 3 rows in rib.
Rep last 4 rows once more, ending with RS facing
for next row. 11 sts.
Next row (RS) - K2tOg, rib to last 2 sts, K2tOg. 9 sts.
Work 1 row rib.
Rep last 2 rows twice more. 5 sts.
Work 12 rows straight, ending with RS facing for next row.
Next row (Buttonhole row) - Kl, Pl, yon, SL1K, K 1, psso, K 1.
Work 4 rows in rib. Cast off .
Left ear flap and strap
Work as given for right ear flap and strap omitting buttonhole.
Make up
Join back seam. Attach earflaps. Sew on button. Do not press.
MITTENS
Cast on 28 sts. Work 24 rows in rib.
Work 26 rows in stocking st, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape top
Row 1 (RS) - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K8, K2tOg, Kl) twice.
24 sts.
Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
Row 3 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K6, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 20 sts.
Row 5 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K4, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 16 sts.
Cast off.
Make up
Work 12 rows straight, ending with RS facing for next row.
Next row (Buttonhole row) - Kl, Pl, yon, SL1K, K 1, psso, K 1.
Work 4 rows in rib. Cast off .
Left ear flap and strap
Work as given for right ear flap and strap omitting buttonhole.
Make up
Join back seam. Attach earflaps. Sew on button. Do not press.
MITTENS
Cast on 28 sts. Work 24 rows in rib.
Work 26 rows in stocking st, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape top
Row 1 (RS) - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K8, K2tOg, Kl) twice.
24 sts.
Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
Row 3 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K6, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 20 sts.
Row 5 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K4, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 16 sts.
Cast off.
Make up
Work 12 rows straight, ending with RS facing for next row.
Next row (Buttonhole row) - Kl, Pl, yon, SL1K, K 1, psso, K 1.
Work 4 rows in rib. Cast off .
Left ear flap and strap
Work as given for right ear flap and strap omitting buttonhole.
Make up
Join back seam. Attach earflaps. Sew on button. Do not press.
MITTENS
Cast on 28 sts. Work 24 rows in rib.
Work 26 rows in stocking st, ending with RS facing for next row.
Shape top
Row 1 (RS) - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K8, K2tOg, Kl) twice.
24 sts.
Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
Row 3 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K6, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 20 sts.
Row 5 - (Kl, SL1K, Kl, psso, K4, K2tOg, Kl) twice. 16 sts.
Cast off.
Make up
THIS IS THE WHOLE JOB FOR YOU TO SEE
THANK YOU JAMES

What do you need to know?

does (rs) mean right hand stitch and when you cast on with the 81 stitches does it mean 80 plus the frst slip knot that you would make

No, rs/RS means right side and is the side of the item that faces out. The ws/WS is wrong side and is the side that’s worn on the inside.

Yes, you always count the slip knot as a cast on stitch.

i have started this pattern but i never seem to get very far with it.

  1. it keeps falling of the needle

  2. the yarn is splitting into three seperate yarns very confusing. and hard to get the needles in between to make the stitch

  3. i am not sure if i am doing the stitching correctly. i know it is knit, peurl ,knit etc. but am not sure what it should look like when i do it like where the yarn should be .
    i did go out and buy the knitter’s bibble by claire crompton so that has been some help

am going to keep trying

so when i cast on the needlle to be cast should be in my right hand and the yarn in my left hand

[B][B]thank you for your help [/B][/B[B]]and for being so patient[/B]

Which thing are you making the hat or the mittens? If you are making the hat perhaps you have too many stitches for the length of your needle. A circular needle will accommodate more stitches safely without them wanting to fall off so easily. Most any length of circular would do, just use the two ends like you would 2 separate needles and work your piece flat without joining to work in the round or anything.

I also know that learners sometimes try to work with the stitches too close to the end of the needle and they will lose stitches that way. Push them back from the end a little and don’t have a bunch all crowded up near the end, that makes it harder to work.

It sounds like you may have a hard yarn to deal with. The yarn splitting is probably not anything you are doing wrong, but the yarn itself. Just work slowly and carefully making sure you have the whole strand of yarn and are not dividing it as you knit. You could consider different yarn.

i am not sure if i am doing the stitching correctly. i know it is knit, peurl ,knit etc. but am not sure what it should look like when i do it like where the yarn should be .
The yarn should always be coming from the piece of knitting on the right hand needle (when you turn to begin a new row it will be coming from the needle in your left hand but as soon as you do the first stitch it will be coming from the right hand needle). When you do a knit stitch the yarn must be in back of the right needle. If you are doing a whole row it stays there all the time and if you are doing the ribbing it must be in the back for each knit stitch. For the purl stitch the yarn must be in front of the right hand needle. If you are doing a whole row it stays there all the time, and if you are doing ribbing, for the purls the yarn must be in front.

So for the ribbing you have to move the yarn back and forth all the time. For a knit the yarn has to be in back and then move it between the needle tips to the front before you purl. Then do the purl with the yarn in front, and then move it to the back again between the needle tips before you do the knit stitch.

so when i cast on the needlle to be cast should be in my right hand and the yarn in my left hand
It depends on what kind of cast on you are doing. If you are doing a common long tail cast on, yes, the needle you are putting stitches on is held in your right hand. But there are other kinds of cast ons where the needle you put stitches on would be in the left hand, like the cable cast on or the knitted cast on. The long tail is the most basic and commonly used cast on that you need to know. I hope you are not attempting to use a backward loop cast on. They are not the best. Find the long tail in your book or on the videos here and learn it.

By the way there are videos here, if you didn’t know, that are very useful and are free. Go up to the top bar and run your cursor over “View Videos” and a menu will drop down for the choices.

yes i did try that and i got the hang of it but for the yarn it came with the pattern. another problem arose it keeps knotting and i will have a look at the videos

once again thatnks for your help

after i left this message i checked the video for cast on and i was using backward loop cast on did not even know it

hi i finished my rib. i used a 2.75mm needle.
i have now started the next part of the the hat .which is the stocking stitch. but i do not understand this part below :

Row 1 - Kl, * K2tOg, K8, rep from * to end. 73 sts.
Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
Row 3 - Kl, * K2tOg, K7, rep from * to end. 65 sts.
Row 5 - Kl, *K2tOg, K6, rep from * to end. 57 sts.
Cont to dec this way until 17 sts rem, ending with RS faci ng for next row.
Next row - Kl, (K2tOg) 8 times.

Your Os are big, maybe the type style is strange - it’s turning the '1’s into 'l’s. What you’re doing is decreasing to shape the top.

R 1 - k1, *k2tog, k8, repeat that part (without the k1) to the end of the row and you have 73 sts left.
R 2,4, 6 purl each row
R 3 - k1 *k2tog, k7, repeat from the decreases and there will be 65 sts.
On R 5 you k2tog, k6 after the first k1, R 7 will be k2tog, k5 and you just keep knitting one less st between the decreases until there’s 17 sts left, end on a purl row and on the last row, k1, then the rest of the sts will be k2tog.

This part is about how to shape the top of the hat, where it gets smaller and smaller. Before you begin this part you have done the ribbing and then 30 more rows of stockinette stitch (knit a row, purl a row). You will begin this shaping part with the smooth side of the stockinette facing up as you begin the row.

First row says:

Row 1 - Kl, * K2tOg, K8, rep from * to end. 73 sts.
So you knit one stitch and then knit the next two stitches together (k2tog). To do that you simply insert your right hand needle into the second stitch on the left needle like you were going to knit it and on through the 1st stitch as well then you knit them together just like they were one stitch. So that where you had 2 on the left needle, you will end up with 1 on the right hand needle. After you do the k2tog then you knit the next 8 stitches. Now the directions tell you to keep repeating that part just after the first * until you get to the end of the row. So you will k2tog again and knit 8 stitches again. Keep doing that until you get to the end of the row.

Next instructions are:

Row 2 and every foil alt row - Purl.
So that wrong side row all you have to do is purl back doing nothing extra or hard. You will do that on all the wrong side rows, which will be every other row, or all even numbered rows. But don’t try to count, just purl if the wrong side is facing up as you begin a row.

Next row:

Row 3 - Kl, * K2tOg, K7, rep from * to end. 65 sts.
This row is just like the row 1 but you only put 7 knit stitches between each k2tog. So K1, then k2tog, then knit the next 7. Repeat the k2tog, knit 7 across the whole row.

Row 4: Purl.

Row 5 - Kl, *K2tOg, K6, rep from * to end. 57 sts.
Just like rows 1 and 3 but with only 6 knit stitches between the k2togs. So it is K1, k2tog, k6. Then repeat that k2tog, knit 6 across.

Cont to dec this way until 17 sts rem, ending with RS faci ng for next row.
Now they are assuming they have made it clear enough how this all works and they just tell you to keep doing the same thing until you have 17 stitches left. So you purl all the wrong side row (next row is one) and then on the right side rows begin with a K1 and then k2tog and then put 1 less knit stitch between the decreases than you did on the last row you decreased.

You can count every time to keep track of where your decreases go every other row or you can use some stitch markers. Using them makes for less thinking. A stitch marker is anything that will go over the needle and between the stitches. You can use a rubber band (they work but don’t slide easily), store bought stitch markers, or make little doughnuts out of scraps of yarn (these are my favorite, low cost and work fine). Here is how to use them:

On the first of the decrease rows (row 1 above) K1, k2tog, knit 8. Then as you begin the repeats of that k2tog, k8 sequence place a marker (PM) over the right hand needle right after you do each k2tog. So you would begin with k1, k2tog, knit 8, then (k2tog, PM, k8) and do what I put in the ( ) over and over to the end of the row. When you finish that row hold it right side facing and take a good look at it. You will have 11 stitches before the first marker on the needle. Thereafter you have each marker followed by 9 stitches, except the last segment where you will only have 8 stitches following the marker.

As you purl back across on each worng side row, when you come to the markers you just move them from the left needle to the right needle, called slipping the markers.

Now on all the right side rows you will work exactly the same on each one, in that you will K1, k2tog and then knit across to 2 stitches before the marker and knit those 2 stitches together. Then work across to 2 before the next marker and knit those 2 together. The markers will automatically mark where you do the decreases and you won’t need to count anymore.

Purl all the wrong side rows. On all the right side rows begin with K1 K2tog then work to just before the marker and K2tog and do that across. When you have 17 stitches left you follow the final direction.

Kl, (K2tOg) 8 times. So now you knit the first stitch and then across all of the other stitches, you knit 2 together every time. You now have 9 stitches. There you finish off the hat.

By the way, on the ends of the decrease rows there is a number. At the end of row 1 it says 73. End of row 3 it says 65. Those numbers are there to tell you how many stitches you should have on the needle at the end of that row. It is a good idea to check those if you have any tendency to get off track. In other words, stop and count and see if you have the right number after you do the row.

Row 1 - Kl, * K2tOg, K8, rep from * to end. 73 sts.

OK SO THIS MEANS THAT I WOULD KNIT 1 , KNIT 2 TOGETHER FOLLOWED BY KNIT 8 THEN STARTING AGAIN KNIT 1 , KNIT 2 TOGETHER FOLOWED BY 8 TILL I GET 75/73

ALSO ON A STOCKING STITCH HOW DO I COUNT THE ROWS I THINK I HAVE ALMOST 30 ROWS BUT I AM NOT SURE

no, you would not include the K1 in the repeat. See where the star is, you repeat from there, so everything after that. It would be K1, k2tog, K8, then k2tog, K8, etc…

to count rows in stockenette, you would want to count how many little “v” stitches you have going up. I suggest you invest in a stitch counter so you never have a question how many you have. My cell phone has a stitch counter, you could check with that first and see if you have a downloadable application for it. It’s great!

so counting in rows would be like :
v
ll
v
ll
v

if they were rows i would have three rows

jimhim, make an effort to count the stitches the way firedancer says. I count the vees by inserting a needle tip into the center of each one as I count. Don’t worry overmuch about having the count perfect, just be sure you are ready to begin a right side row when you begin the next direction. If you are off and have 28 or 32 it won’t be the end of the world.

I saw your little diagram of the stitches. I don’t understand the use of the "ll"s that you used. The vees fit right into each other so that the bottom of one vee goes right into the top of the next vee. The little hole I mentioned that I count is at the bottom of one vee and in the middle of the next one. But there is just one hole for each row, so that is what I count.

I think this:
v
ll
v
ll
v
It looks like you’re counting the ribbed rows, and that’s 6 row. Count the Vs above the ribbing. It should look like this
v
v
v
v
v
v etc. Or you can count the purl bumps on the purl side, I find it’s easier because you can feel them as well as see them. [I]Don’t include the ribbing when counting the 30 rows.[/I]

ok i have finished my thirty rows and have started counting down row 1 and row 2 now my knitting has turned around inside out is that normal

What do you mean it’s turned inside out? I thought you were knitting the hat flat?