Newby in need of help

How-to Questions
1

Hi,
Newish knitter here. My lovely other half has chosen a pattern and yarn and suggested I might find it relaxing to knit him a new jumper during my work holidays. So thoughtful.
Pattern bought, yarn bought, project started and I’m quite impressed with myself so far.
Top down saddle shoulder jumper (cotton and cloud)
Have now got to

'Neck and sleeve shaping occur simultaneously.

Neck and Sleeve shaping occur simultaneously. Please read the
following before you work.
Shape Neck
Next row (RS): K to end, inc 2 sts at the end of the row.
Next row (WS): P to end, inc 2 sts at the end of the row.
Next row: K to end, inc 3 sts at the end of the row.
Next row: P to end, inc 3 sts at the end of the row.
SHAPE SLEEVES & JOIN THE FRONT
At the same time, shape sleeve as follows:
Work the following 2 rows twice. When you encounter yo made
on the previous row, work the stitch tbl to twist to prevent a
hole being made.
Inc row (RS): *K to m, slm, yo, k to the second m, yo, slm; rep
from * once more, k to end – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each
sleeves).
Inc row (WS): *P to m, slm, yo, p to the second m, yo, slm;
rep from * once more, p to end – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each
sleeves).

168 (170, 180, 184) sts; 27 (27, 28, 28) sts for both right and left
fronts, 22 (22, 24, 24) sts for both sleeves, 70 (72, 76, 80) sts for
back.
Next row (RS): *K to the first m, slm, yo, k to the second m, yo,
slm; rep from * once more, k to end, then CO 16 (18, 20, 24) sts
using cable cast on – total 20 (22, 24, 28) sts inc’d. Then carefully not to twist the cast on stitches, join to the beginning of
the row to knit in the rnd. Then cont k to m1.
Note the beginning of the rnd is now moved at m1. 188 (192, 204,
212) sts; 70 (72, 76, 80) sts for both front and back and 24 (24,
26, 26) sts for both sleeves.

And am lost! I can’t get my head round it.:thinking: Any help gratefully received.:blush:

2

Welcome!

Let’s start with the neck and sleeve shaping:

Row 1 Inc row (RS): *K to m, slm, yo, k to the second m, yo, slm; rep
from * once more, k to end and inc 2sts at the end of the row – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each
sleeve) plus 2sts inc at end of row.
Row 2 Inc row (WS): *P to m, slm, yo, p to the second m, yo, slm;
rep from * once more, p to end and inc 2sts at the end of the row– 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each sleeve) plus 2sts inc at end of row.
Row 3 Inc row (RS): *K to m, slm, yo, k to the second m, yo, slm; rep
from * once more, k to end and inc 3sts at the end of the row – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each
sleeve) plus 3 sts at end of row.
Row 4 Inc row (WS): *P to m, slm, yo, p to the second m, yo, slm;
rep from * once more, p to end and inc 3sts at the end of the row– 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each sleeve) plus 3sts inc at end of row.

What size are you making?

3

Many, many thanks for getting back to me. It has started to become clearer in my mind.
I’d started the knitting the 44" chest - without knitting a swatch!
Decided I was foolish so knitted a swatch. The rows were ok but the stitch count was way off. Have tried 6mm needles (but unfortunately not in the same material). Stitches now ok but rows too long. Not sure what to do.
Stick to original needles and up the jumper size to 47"?
Change to 6mm needles and reduce rows? But would this be difficult with the saddle shoulder?
Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks.

4

Good for you for recognizing the value of a swatch. For most items the stitch count is more important since patterns tend to give length in inches anyway. There are exceptions like raglans where you may need to compensate for the row gauge.
So go with the stitch gauge here. The saddle shoulder shouldn’t be a problem because you essentially want the length to match the top of the main body shoulder.
It’s such a classic design and should be fun to work.

5

THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.
Would it be worth trying the 5.5 mm as I’m a bit wary that the stitches are a bit loose on the 6mm swatch. other half prefers the knit on the 5mm!

6

It’s worth a try. The swatch also helps you decide if you like the feel of the knit fabric.

7

Hi, me again. :grinning:
Have finally got going again with different sized needles. Have got to the shape neck part but am struggling with the yarn over. :thinking:
I thought the idea of a yarn over was to create a hole.
Aware that pattern states to work the stitch tbl (through back loop) to twist to prevent a hole being made.
No matter how many times I try this, I still have holes!! It’s driving me crazy!! :crazy_face:
The yarn over creates a new stitch -yes? But also an unwanted hole. Why can I not use a m1 instead?
Any advice? I’m not one for giving up easily but…

Also when it states inc at end of row, which method would you suggest for both the knit and purl rows?
Many thanks in advance. :hugs:

8

A yarnover does create a hole and that’s how it’s used in lace patterns. In this case, knitting or purling through the back loop tightens that hole up. By all means use any increase that you like. A m1 will work nicely.

If it’s increasing 2 stitches at the end of the row as for the neck shaping, I would cast on those sts. You could use a thumb loop cast on or a knit or cable cast on (nicer, firmer edge) and it’ll work for both knit and purl rows.
Here’s a video for the cable cast on.

9

You’re a star!
Diolch yn fawr.

10

Croeso!

11

Hello!
Hope you’re keeping well.
Unfortunately life/work got in the way of my knitting.
I have finally given it another go and have just joined in the round :grinning:.
Thought I’d check in with my knitting guru before continuing.

Upon reaching m1 having joined and knitted up to here. I have read and written out the next step but thought I should ask just to be sure. Can you please confirm the next part?
Diolch o galon :heart:

12

Yes, life has a way of intruding. Glad you’re back to knitting again and hope you too are well.

“Then carefully not to twist the cast on stitches, join to the beginning of
the row to knit in the rnd. Then cont k to m1.
Note the beginning of the rnd is now moved at m1.”

Make sure the round isn’t twisted. You can check when you first join and also on the next round to make sure. The increases may continue at the markers, sometimes only on one side of markers sometimes on both sides depending on your pattern. Writing out the rounds to note the increases is a good idea.

13

Good morning, Hope you’re well. Knitting is progressing slowly.
Just not sure of the next section - wondering if perhaps there is an error / typo in the pattern. Would really appreciate your opinion before continuing.

CONTINUE SHAPE SLEEVES
Work the next 3 rnds 6 (7, 7, 8) times:
Next 2 rnds: *Slm, yo, k to the marker, yo, slm, k to the next m;
rep from * once more – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts inc for each sleeves).
Next rnd: Knit.
236 (248, 260, 276) sts. 70 (72, 76, 80) sts for both front and back and 48 (52, 54, 58) sts for both sleeves.
HAVE COMPLETED UP TO HERE
NOW I’M NOT SURE ABOUT

Work the next 2 rnds 2 (4, 5, 5) times.
Next rnd: Sl m1, *k to m, slm, yo, k to next m, yo, slm; rep from

  • once more – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts each for both front and back).

IT STATES: Sl m1 and then includes 4 yo. SLIP and MAKE 1? This would create 5 new stitches not 4.
Is it an error that should read Slm?

Rydych werth y byd. :earth_americas:

14

So I read it as Next rnd: Slip marker 1, (k to marker, slip marker, yo, knit to next marker, yo, slip marker) repeat once more. Four sts increased, 2 each for front and back.

Is that the confusion?

15

YES!
I thought it would say Slm like it had done at the start of previous rounds, so was confused by Sl m1 - thinking it meant to slip a stitch and make 1.
So it’s just a case of carrying on I’ve been doing in previous section, slipping the marker and knitting to the next one.
That is what I thought but wanted my knitting guru to confirm it just in case.
Diolch yn fawr iawn. :hugs:

16

You’ve got it! These increases sound like they’re only for front and back whereas you may have previously been increasing for front, back and sleeves (8sts inc).

17

Your support is giving me such a boost. Thank you.
Have completed this part:
Work the next 2 rnds 2 (4, 5, 5) times. Next rnd: Sl m1, *k to m, slm, yo, k to next m, yo, slm; rep from

  • once more – 4 sts inc’d (2 sts each for both front and back). Next rnd: Knit.
    244 (264, 280, 296) sts; 74 (80, 86, 90) sts for both front andback and 48 (52, 54, 58) sts for sleeves.

I am now here:
Cont in St st until the armhole height measures 21 (21, 22, 22)
cm.
As this is my first jumper, I have never measured armhole height before! Do I lay it flat and measure to the base of the saddle shoulder? Apologies if this is a silly question. Any advice gratefully received.
diolch

18

Good question. It’s come up for most of us before too.
Here’s a tutorial for measuring armhole depth. The important point is not to measure along the curve of the armhole. (see about 1/3 down the page)

19

What I do is i thread some waste yarn through four or five of the centre stitches and then I have a point to measure from

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20

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Attached are two pics.
The one of the jumper shows the saddle shoulder under which I think I should put a straight edge across and then measure down 22cm as I have tried to demonstrate in the drawing. Am I right?
Thank you