# Newbie Question about "beg with row 2"

Hello.
Knitting charts are read from left to right but numbered from right to left.
This may be a really newbie question but:
Why are they numbered from right to left?
Row 1 always starts on the right side.
Should they not number the first row on the left side then if you knit from left to right?

(I am trying to knit a sweater’s left front side).
The text says to “begin with ‘row 2’” which starts on the left side of the chart so this kind of makes sense but what happens with “row 1” of the chart?
Do I ignore it altogether?
The text says to knit 4 rows of “row 2”.
But if I begin with “row 2” as the text says, I’d be knitting only 3 rows of “row 2” before the pattern changes (from looking at the chart).

A chart is an image of your knitting as seen from the RS. The odd numbered rows are knit from right to left, so the numbers are on the right side. The even numbered rows are knit from left to right, so the numbers are on the left side. Evidently you skip row 1 the first time through the chart and begin with R 2 which you do 4 times. I’m guessing that it’s a knit row so you end up with garter stitch? Or maybe ribbing? So do all 4 rows, then go on to the next direction. Which pattern is it, btw, we can help you a little better if we can look at the chart too.

Here is an image of the chart.

The instructions say to cast on 77 stitches and begin with row 2.
After placing the marker (PM) the text says to k1, p1, k1 for the rest of the row and “work 4 rows as established”

Are you knitting flat or in the round? For flat knitting, row 2 would begin at the left while the marker is on the right, which would be okay for circular knitting.

It also doesn’t seem to make any sense; the row looks like it should be all knit or all purl, so where does the k1, p1 ribbing come in?

1. I am knitting flat.

2. They didn’t include the k1, p1 rib in the chart probably to save space (shown in the chart are 28 sts in rows 1-4).
The text says to “work 49 sts in k1, p1 rib (beg with row 2)” after the 28th st.

Back to my original question:
Do I knit beginning from row 2 4 times and then M1R and M1L on the fifth row as it says in the chart?
Technically I’d be knitting beginning with row 1 from the left if I did this.
(I thought I was supposed to ignore row 1 which would lead me to knit only 3 rows before knitting row 5 in the chart).
This came from the “corrected” text instructions online.

This pattern is for a sweater from Vogue Knitting Fall 2008 edition.

Oh, Vogue. Their patterns can be confusing. Which pattern is it, maybe that will help. Okay then, follow the chart which is about 28 sts, then do the k1p1 for 49 sts. If you’re supposed to only do row 2, then you won’t do other rows from the chart. Unless it says “begin working from the chart starting with row 2”. What are the instructions after you do row 2 4 times?

I actually racked my brain thinking and reading the text over again.
I think I finally figured it out!
They said to work 4 rows as established which probably just means to follow the pattern exactly for 4 rows up to row5.
I don’t think I am supposed to do row 1 for the left front portion because I read the text for the sleeves and they use the same chart for the sleeves which incorporates row 1.
I have never seen one chart used for different parts of a sweater before.
It makes it so confusing.
So I have knitted up to row 5 which is 4 rows for the left front.
Just mulling it over on and offline helped I think but what an ordeal…
Vogue…go figure!
Their issues cost \$9 each and they make life so difficult!

Okay, that makes sense, you’d be starting with row 1 for one front, but skipping it on the other side. You’ll get to do it though, after you finish row 24…

Hello again.
On row 24 they say to ssk and k2tog.
Row 24 is on the WS so would I ssp and p2tog instead?
Thanks!

Yes, but reverse the order. Do a p2tog for the ssk, and ssp for the K2tog.

Thanks!