I am currently working on a Sugar’n Cream Bear sweater and am stuck on the front neck shaping. I am having a really hard time figuring out how to follow the pattern with the decreases. Would anyone be willing to help me figure this out? Here is the link to the pattern http://www.michaels.com/art/online/projectsheet?pid=e00515&categoryid=32
You’re doing one side at a time, the left side first. Knit across 10 (13) stitches and slip the rest to a spare needle. Then knit 2 or purl 2 together at the neck edge on the next 4 or 5 rows, depending on your size. You’ll have 6 or 8 left. Work those stitches for 5 more rows and bind off.
Then you put the other stitches back on the needle and work those the same way. You’ll have cut the yarn after the first side, so just start knitting with it and tighten up and weave in the end later.
Thanks. I understand that part. The trouble I am having is breaking down the pattern for each row. Any chance you can help me figure that part out?
Your very best bet is to look at the knitting. All through the pattern, except for when you cross the cable, you’re knitting the knits and purling the purls. So if there is a V (knit) on the left needle, knit it. If there’s a purl bump, purl it.
Looking at the pattern, the part you’re continuing on appears to be just the ribbing part. As you work the remaining stitches, it should continue looking the same. If it doesn’t, then you know you started wrong.
Thanks. Are you sure the cable is not involved in that part though?
The first 10 stitches are ribbing, and those are the ones you work. The cable part gets put on the holder and you’ll work those on the second side. It looks like you will need to keep continuity of that pattern going, but it should be obvious what part you’re working on.
I have 21 stitches left when I start the neck shaping because I casted off the first and last 6 in the shoulder shaping. Wouldn’t that mean I do the first 10 stitches in the neck shaping in a P1, K4, P1, K4 pattern?
The neck shaping for the front comes before the shoulder shaping. You have 21 on a holder for the back, but the front is worked differently.
You work the front until you have 10 rows less than when you started the shoulder shaping for the back. There doesn’t appear to be any shoulder shaping for the front. Just the neck decreases and bind off.