# Need help understanding a pattern

hello my name is meg and im been working on the sweater for my boyfriend and ive completed the body but the collar instructions have got me lost … its in a 1x1 ribbing and it increases and i just cant get it … NEED HELP! ive included the link and the copied portion of the part im having trouble with… if anyone can break it down and explain ill be very thankful.

[B]http://berroco.com/exclusives/kyle/kyle.html[/B]

[B][U]PArt im stuck at [/U][/B]

Right Placket and Collar: With smaller needles, cast on 14 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, p1.

Row 2: * K1, p1, rep from * across. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 4” from beg, end on WS. Mark end of last row for beg of collar.

[B]Inc Row (RS): Work to last st, M1p, k1 – 15 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge EVERY row 15 times more, working incs into ribbing – 30 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every RS row 13 times – 43 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every other RS row 5 times – 48 sts. Work even in ribbing as established until collar, when slightly stretched, measures 9(9 1/2-10-10 1/2-11)” above marker, end on WS. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even for 4 rows.

Note: Short rows are worked to give shaping to the collar. When working these rows you will work part way across a row, turn, sl 1, then work back to the beginning.

Short Rows: Row 1 (RS): Work 42 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even.

Row 2 (RS): Work 38 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even. Continue in this manner to alternate short rows and even rows, working 4 less sts each short row until short side of collar measures 5 1/2” above markers, end on WS. Sl 48 sts onto holder. Mark placement of 2 buttons on placket, one 1” up from cast-on edge and the other just below beg of collar.[/B]Left Placket and Collar: With RS facing, sl 12 sts from front holder to smaller needles and join yarn.

Inc Row (WS): P1, M1k, (p1, k1) 5 times, M1p, k1 – 14 sts.

Row 1 (RS): (P1, k1) 6 times, p1, sl 1.

Row 2: * P1, k1, rep from * across. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 1” from beg, end on WS.

Buttonhole Row: (P1, k1) 3 times, p1, yo, k2 tog, work to end. Continue to work in ribbing as established until piece measures 3 1/2” from beg, end on WS. Make 2nd buttonhole, then work even until piece measures 4” from beg, end on WS. Mark beg of last row for beg of collar.

Inc Row (RS): K1, M1p, work to end – 15 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge EVERY row 15 times more, working incs into ribbing – 30 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every RS row 13 times – 43 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every other RS row 5 times – 48 sts. Work even until collar, when slightly stretched, measures 9(9 1/2-10-10 1/2-11)” above marker, end on RS. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even for 4 rows.

Short Rows: Row 1 (WS): Work 42 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, work to end. Work 4 rows even.

Row 2 (WS): Work 38 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, work to end. Work 4 rows even. Continue in this manner to alternate short rows and even rows, working 4 less sts each short row until short edge of collar measures 5 1/2” above marker, end on WS. Sl 48 sts onto holder. Sew shoulder seams. Sew inner edge of left placket and collar to left front. Sew inner edge of right placket and collar to right front. Weave sts from holders tog at center back neck. Sew cast-on edge of right placket to picked-up sts of left placket. Sew on sleeves between markers. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew 2 larger buttons to right placket. With crochet hook, make a chain 2” long. Fasten off. Sew ends of chain tog and then to center of last row of pocket detail on left front forming buttonloop. Repeat for right front. Sew smaller buttons under buttonloops.

Inc Row (RS): Work to last st, M1p, k1 – 15 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge EVERY row 15 times more, working incs into ribbing – 30 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every RS row 13 times – 43 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every other RS row 5 times – 48 sts. Work even in ribbing as established until collar, when slightly stretched, measures 9(9 1/2-10-10 1/2-11)” above marker, end on WS. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even for 4 rows.

Okay, you have cast on 14 sts and repeated those 2 rows for 4 inches, and put a little marker of some kind there to mark that the collar part starts now (that first 4" will be the neck placket).

I believe when you continue that you should begin the RS rows like you did over the first 4", in other words do the slip stitch at the beginning and then rib across until you have one stitch left. I think it would be a good idea to mark your RS some way, with a safety pin, or I like to take a length of scrap yarn and pull it through a stitch with a crochet hook and tie a big bow knot on the right side, you can move it up occasionally so it is easy to see. Now you are to do a M1P.

To do that I would pick up the strand of yarn between the last stitch you have yet to work and the last one on the RHN (right hand needle) with the LHN (left hand needle) from behind the strand and then purl into it in the front. That will make one new stitch as a purl. Then knit the last stitch. You now have 15 sts. (If you are not familiar with this type of increase at all and need more help on it let me know)

Next is

Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge EVERY row 15 times more, working incs into ribbing – 30 sts.

So you need to increase 1 after the first stitch in the next row. It is a little weird right at the edge when you increase every row as you have to do here. You can’t help having two stitches the same in sequence, but they will soon be worked into the ribbing pattern and it will work. I would: Purl the first stitch, then M1P the same way you did at the end or the row, by lifting the strand between that first stitch and the next one and purling it. Then knit the next stitch and keep working the rib in sequence across.

You are supposed to keep working like that, RS rows slipping the first stitch, ribbing across to till you have 1 and then M1P, k1. Turn ( now you are on the WS) and purl 1, M1P, K1 and keep ribbing across until you have increased to 30 stitches.

Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every RS row 13 times – 43 sts.
Now you only do the increases on the RS rows, so that will be every other row. So slip 1, (p1, k1) across to till you have one and do the same increase as before, K the last stitch. On the WS rows you will just be doing (p1, k1) all across. You keep increasing like that on only the right side rows until you have 43 sts. (If you are careful to always do your increases when you should, you wouldn’t have to count rows but keep and eye on how many stitches you have and stop at the right number [or count rows if you prefer, or both ])

Next is:

Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every other RS row 5 times – 48 sts.
Do the same thing you were doing but now only do the increase at the end of [B]every other[/B] right side row instead of each right side row. Keep doing that until you have 48 sts.

Work even in ribbing as established until collar, when slightly stretched, measures 9(9 1/2-10-10 1/2-11)” above marker, end on WS. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even for 4 rows.
So now you just work over the 48 stitches as you have been doing slipping the first stitch on the RS rows and ribbing across, then ribbing back until you have the number of inches you need for your size when it is slightly stretched. End having done a WS row and put another little marker of some kind at that spot along the edge. Then do 4 more rows the same way.

Note: Short rows are worked to give shaping to the collar. When working these rows you will work part way across a row, turn, sl 1, then work back to the beginning.
This just gives a little general information about the next part. You may have heard of something called “wrap and turn”, you don’t have to do that here. You only turn you don’t do any wrapping.

Short Rows: Row 1 (RS): Work 42 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even.

Now you begin the short row shaping of the collar. Not so hard just follow the directions exactly.
Row 1: (this is the RS, have it marked to make it easier on yourself) Work your ribbing across 42 sts just like always, now instead of finishing the whole row, turn the work in your hands like you would at the end of a row so that you can start working in the other direction. Slip the first stitch and rib to the end of the row. Now work 4 rows across all the stitches with no increases or fancy stuff.

Row 2 (RS): Work 38 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even.
Work your ribbing across 38 stitches (note this is 4 less than the 42 you did on row 1 of the short rows), turn to work the other direction, sl 1 and work to the end. Work 4 more rows even.

Continue in this manner to alternate short rows and even rows, working 4 less sts each short row until short side of collar measures 5 1/2” above markers, end on WS.
So they want you to keep throwing in a short row after every 4 even rows (the short row will always be a RS row), but work across 4 less stitches before you turn each time until your collar is 5 1/2" above the last marker you put along the edge.

So for your next short row you would rib across 34, and turn, sl 1 work across. Rib 4 rows even. Next one would be rib across 30, turn, sl1, rib across. Rib 4 rows even. Etc. However many you need to do to get to 5 1/2". End having worked a WS row.

Sl 48 sts onto holder. Mark placement of 2 buttons on placket, one 1” up from cast-on edge and the other just below beg of collar.
Then you put all 48 stitches of your collar on a holder. Go back to the first part (the first 4") of the collar part (the placket) and put some kind of markers where the buttons will go later. One 1" from where you cast on, and the other a little below where you put the first marker for where the collar started.

I hope that is some help. It isn’t that hard if you follow each direction one at a time and keep track of where you are. Good luck with your collar.