Need help for sandbar pullover tuck pattern

I need help for 1,2 and 3 row tuck knitting pattern.

1st row: k1,p1,yo, sl1 p-wise wyib,p1
2nd row:p1,k1,sl st and yo p-wise wyif,yo,k1
3rd row: k1,p1, k next st and 2 yo tog, p1

Thanks

What seems to be causing the problem?

Thanks for your reply. I am confused about the Tuck st pat: row 1, row2 and row3.

1st row: k1,p1,yo, sl1 p-wise wyib,p1. When you k1p1 the yarn will finish in front, bring the yarn to the back over the right needle toward the back (that’s the yarn over), slip one stitch purlwise. Now bring the yarn around the needle and to the front between the needle tips and p1.

2nd row: p1,k1,sl st and yo p-wise wyif,yo,k1. P1k1 bring the yarn to the front (the front is facing you) slip stitch and the yo from the previous row purlwise bring the yarn to the back over the right needle and k1.

3rd row: k1,p1, k next st and 2 yo tog, p1. P1k1, knit together the clump which is formed by the 2 yarn overs and the next stitch, p1p1.

Thank you so much for helping. :hugs::hugs::hibiscus::hibiscus::hibiscus:

Hi there, I too am interested in this pattern but struggling with deciphering it. Could you possibly repeat what you mean with the 3rd row as I cant see how I end on p1p1. ?

To be honest the whole pattern is probably beyond me but I am trying to give it a good go before I admit defeat and have so far roped in both of my Grandmothers but to no avail as yet. I cant help but feel if I could just get into a rhythm I will be ok, getting beyond the setup row is as far as I can successfully get though before having to redo again and again!

Any help would be much appreciated :smile:

Welcome to KH!
It’s sometimes difficult to get started on a pattern stitch but often working a smaller swatch helps. This pattern is a multiple of 2 + 3 so some multiple of 2 like 20 will work. Cast on 23sts and give it a try.

Row 3: K1, p1, *k next st and 2 yo tog, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

It looks like my mistake on row 3. It should end with p1 at the final repeat then the final k1. Sorry for that confusion.

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By golly I think I’ve got it hahaha! Thank you so much, it may take me some time but I expect I will be back with more questions as I work through the pattern

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Hi again. I have got the pattern to work but have now decided to start again as I wasnt happy with my yarn. I want to follow their gauge to check that I have the right weight and needles this time, could you help? It says:

16 sts x 32 rows = 4" in tuck st pat, blocked.

When looking at the main pattern instructions, there is a Setup Row of P1, K1 rep before then starting the 4 row tuck st pat.

Should I do the setup row in my gauge or go straight into the 4 row tuck stitch “blocked”?

Thanks again in anticipation of your answer x

** I have just tried quickly both ways and I cant make the pattern work with 16 sts so am going to work on your original suggestion of 20 sts again

I didn’t look at the pattern multiple which is a repeat of 2sts + 3 when I suggested 20 sts. I apologize for the confusion. You would need to cast on 21sts to work the pattern.
I suggested 20sts so that you could measure over the middle 16sts not including the sts near the edge in your measurement.

Yes, work the set up row when you work your gauge swatch.

So glad this tuck pattern for Sandbar Pullover was discussed. I’m trying to knit the same sweater and could not decipher the pattern either! Thanks!! Can’t believe I found this by a google of Rae Blackledge. And now to try again ….

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Hi there,

Help! I’m to the point of shaping the neckline in the front. But I’m confused as to the total length of the front panel of the sweater. The measurements don’t add up to the total in the diagram (i.e. 6 1/2” + 9” = 15”) but the overall measurement of the front is 24 1/2 (26, 28, 29, 30)".

I worked the first part of the front panel up to 6 1/2” and then started shaping the neckline, but it doesn’t seem like the front panel will be long enough if I continue for 9”.

Front
Work as for back until armholes measure 6 1⁄2 (7 1⁄2, 8 1⁄2, 9, 10)" [16.5 (19.1, 21.6, 22.9, 25)cm], ending with a WS row.

Shape Neck
Work across 29 (33, 36, 40, 43) sts for
left neck, BO center 15 (15, 17, 17, 19) sts, work across rem 29 (33, 36, 40, 43) sts for right neck. Place sts for left neck on st holder.

Right Neck
Note: Cont to work in pat, when necessary during shaping, k coordinating yo and sl st tog to complete BO or dec. At beg of next RS row, BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) sts—27 (31, 34, 37, 40) sts.
At beg of next RS row, BO 2 sts—25 (29, 32, 35, 38) sts.
Work 1 WS row.
Dec Row (RS): K1, k2tog, work in pat to end—1 st dec’d.
Next Row (WS): Work in pat to last
3 sts, p3.
Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) more times—23 (27, 30, 32, 35).
Work in pat until armhole measures
9 (10, 11, 12, 13)" [22.9 (25, 28, 30, 33)cm], ending with Row 3 of pat.
BO all sts in pat.

Welcome to the forum!
The measurements for the sweater in the smallest size are15 1/2" for the body up to the beginning of the armhole and 9" for the armhole opening giving the total of 24 1/2".
For the front, you should knit 15 1/2" from the cast on, mark the beginning of the armhole then measure 6 1/2" from the beginning of the armhole mark to the neck bind off. Then the Right Neck continues with some decreases for the neck and knitting in pattern until the armhole measures 9".
If that isn’t the problem, then just come back and ask again. We’ll all be happy to help.

Hello Salmonmac,

I thank you for your prompt response and hopefully I’ll have a finished sweater soon. I’ve been working on this off and on for about 3 winters now.

This forum helped me from the beginning. I’m a self taught knitter and realized after a few years, that I knit combination Western/Eastern so written patterns always take extra work for me to figure out.

First I had problems with the tuck stitch pattern, then my original cast on was too narrow, then too wide, and finally wide enough after I added and subtracted and then added more stitches to start. I just finished the back panel a few weeks ago and thought I had it mostly figured out enough to start the front panel, but there you go, I misunderstood the pattern.

You know after I laid it all out in my inquiry above, I kind of figured it out, and came to the same conclusion as your answer. Knit up 15 1/2”, mark for armholes, then shape neckline. I’ve never constructed a sweater before and was too close to the tree to see the forest, so to speak.

Again, thank you for your help!

Sometimes the sweaters that you fiddle with and reknit turn out to be favorites. This is going to be gorgeous when you finish.
Just to be sure, knit up to 15 1/2" then knit 6 1/2" more before shaping the neckline. That’ll be 6 1/2" past the armhole marker.
Enjoy finishing this one up this winter!

Hi,

More questions…

I’m working the sleeves and I’m confused by the increases.

“Setup Row (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * across.”

“Work in tuck st pat until sleeve measures 21⁄2" (6.4cm), ending with a WS row.”

“Inc Row (RS): K1, m1, work in pat to last st, m1, k1—2 sts inc’d.”

“Rep Inc Row every other RS row 2 (7, 15, 18, 22) more times—24 (57, 73, 83, 93) sts.”

“Rep Inc Row every third RS row 14 (12, 8, 7, 6) times—73 (81, 89, 97, 105) sts.”

Which row numbers do I do the increases? The tuck st pattern is made up of 4 rows. So I’m guessing on Row 1, the first RS row, I will increase once.

But what does it mean by “every other RS row 2 (7, 15, 18, 22) more times—24 (57, 73, 83, 93) sts.”? Does it mean every first and third rows of the tuck st pattern for a multiple of (7, 15, 18, 22) times until the stitch count is 24 (57, 73, 83, 93) sts?

If that is the case, what about the second increasing row? “Rep Inc Row every third RS row 14 (12, 8, 7, 6) times—73 (81, 89, 97, 105) sts.”?

Good progress!
At the given measurement, finish with a WS row. Call the next RS row, row 1. Increase 2sts, one at the beginning of the row and one at the end of the row on rows 1,5 and 9 (that’s every other RS row) then on rows 15,21,27,33,39,45,51,57,63,69,75,81,87 and 93 (that’s every 3rd RS row).
The easiest way to keep track of this is the write out a column with the above numbers. Next to it write out the tuck stitch row numbers 1,2,3,4 and repeat 1,2,3,4 down the column. Then you can check off the rows as you work the increases and know for sure which row of the tuck stitch you’re on.