Male V neck sweater trouble

Hello everyone. My name is Milton. I’m a fairly experienced knitter. I’ve recently learned how to knit inbred round and found what seemed to be an informative video on YouTube explaining in detail, how to measure someone and design a knitted sweater in the round.

I’m using worsted weight yarn. Red heart yarn and size US 8 29" circular needles.

My measurements are as follows:
Bust: 33 1/2"
Underarm to hem: 12 1/2"
Shoulder width: 20"
Total length (top neck to hem): 8"

My knitting gauge is: 6sts/inch

In to video Paula Ward offers the following formula for calculating number of cast-on stitches to start the work.

Bust + Ease (standard ease is 2"-4", I chose a 2 1/2" ease) = Chest measurement.

So here’s what I get when I plug in my measurements.

33 1/2" + 2 1/2" = 36"

To get the number of cast on stichtes in the round. She offers the following formula:

Chest measurement x stitch gauge = # of cast on stitches in the round.

Again I pull in my numbers:

36" x 6 (sts per inch) = 216 sts.

I’ve CO 216 sts and the loop of cast on stitches won’t fit around my body…

What did I miss here?! I’m really annoyed. Lol.

*I should mention that I knitted my swatch flat…

Also, which size circular needles should I use in terms of length? Or should I get a large size and use the magic loop method?

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Hi Milton and welcome!
That all sounds correct. If your gauge flat is close to your gauge in the round, you should be fine. Since it’s a comparatively large number of sts you might check this on a swatch knit in the round.

It may be that your cast on is a little tight but you need to knit several rounds more to see the actual size of the sweater. The cast on can compress or expand to a wide range of sizes. Knitting more rows should give you the measurement you’ve planned.

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What is “inbred round”? Or is that a typo?

If you have cast on to the 29" circular and are measuring with it on the needles it won’t work unless your hips are way smaller. You need to knit a few inches usually as well to get a better feel for circumference. Then either take if off the needles and put it on waste yarn or use another circ or two so you can let it relax and stretch out so it’ll fit around hips. Does that help?

Okay. That’s true. I remember now that I am a particularly tight knitter.

Another question. If I were to divide the number of stitches (216 sts), I
can simply knit the piece flat with a front and back? And which size
circular needles would you recommend using?

Sure, knitting flat on half the sts will work. You may want to add on an extra stitch at each edge which will become part of the seam. I prefer the stability of seams at the sides for myself.
Your 29" circular should work just fine for that.

Thank you SOOO MUCH!!! That definitely helps!!! And makes logical sense. As I read this I’m thinking…Ummmm. duh!!! This is on the second project I have done where I’m not following a pattern to the letter. Lol.

My first large project was a hoodie made out of 100% wool blend yarn but it was knitted flat and a bit more bulky. I love knitting and finishing a project and then seeing people in disbelief when the realize that you made your garmet handmade. Lol.

Okay. So my stitch gauge was off. I have four stitches per inch. But even with a St gauge of 6 sts per inch and casting on 216 sts in the round. I ended up with an excess of about 7"…where did I go wrong? I’m going to start all over and be sure to swatch before starting the project. And I have decided just be safe I’m going to probably take my ease down from 2 1/2" to 1"?

I have enough trouble getting an actual pattern to fit the way I like so I won’t be much help here, but that sounds good if it’s way too large.

You’ve figured out the problem; it’s the gauge. Be sure to measure gauge over at least 4 inches in the middle of your work. You’ll need to knit 4 inches length and something greater than 4 inches width in order to do this. Don’t include edge sts in the measurement. Cast on about 30ss for the gauge swatch and work it in the round if that’s the way you plan to knit.

Okay. So I’be know worked 12.5" in the round, which is the length from the bottom of my armhole to the hem of the sweater. Now I’m ready to start shaping the armholes and v neck. I’m still utilizing Paul Wards videos for consistency. I’m just confused as to which to start first…the armhole shaping and then the v neck? Or should I do it the other way around?

I’ve also realized that I’m not going to do any sleeves for this first sweater…I’m going to make this a v neck sweater vest and I would like to add maybe a 1/2 to 1" of 2x2 ribbing along the edge of the armholes so they will lay flat, unfortunately Paula Ward’s videos don’t seem to mention this…any ideas on how this can be done?

*Also, I noticed in the videos that she uses marker yarn…is that necessary to mark this way? I feel like my OLd would freak out.

Here are the videos for shaping/creating armholes and v neck if you guys would like to check them out for reference:

Armhole shaping videos (Parts 1 & 2)


V neck shaping videos (Parts 1-3)



**Another random thought. I know the v neck has to be worked with two separate skeins of yarn…do I just add the second skein of yarn as I normally have? (E g. Add a new color to a work, adding a new skein of yarn after I have run out, etc)

Congrats on the great progress! A sweater vest sounds good.

Working the back first may help you decide where you want the V to start on the front. If you have a V neck sweater, see if you like the placement on that or look of one in a store. Usually the armhole bind offs are worked first but it depends on how deep a V you want.

Here’s a video for picking up sts which gives some helpful numbers that will work for picking up around an armhole in stockinette.

Markers are always helpful and the pieces of contrasting yarn in the videos are cleverly used. It’s a good idea, certainly the first time around.

Yes, start the second strand of yarn the way you would start any color change.

So when you say working the back first…does that mean I work the armholes…and then I’ll go back and work the v neck?

Yes, bind off for the armholes. Now you’ll have 2 sections of live sts separated by 2 gaps if you’re working in the round. Finish the back up to the shoulder bind off. Then you can use that to plan where you would like the V-neck to start.
I suggest doing it this was because the V is most likely going to start after the armhole bind off. I’ve only made one sweater with a deeper V than that for myself.

If you look at any sweater you have, you can gauge this yourself just in case you do want a very deep V that would start before the armhole bind off.

Got it. So I think I have a major problem. I ended up with an kid number if stitches. I’m thinking I lost one somehow. Is there a way to make a stitch or would I be able to start shaping the armholes as normal with an odd number of stitches?

You can always increase a stitch if you need to but it may be simpler to just bind off one fewer on the armhole bind off. One stitch isn’t going to make much difference.

Okay. So work the armhole as she instructed in th video but just bind off 1 stitch fewer on which side/armhole do I bind off 1 stick less? The right armhole or the left armhole?

It doesn’t really matter. You’re fudging the number here. How many sts are you binding off on each armhole?

I haven’t done the math yet using the methods in her videos…but I’ve cared on 135 sts. And the first step is to divide that by 2? But I have an odd number. Ugh!!!

As I understand it you’re going to knit this sweater in the round. Is that right? Dividing by 2 separates the front and back, yes? Why not cast on one more stitch so that when you divide by 2 you’ll have an even number for front and back?
Or are you at a different part of the sweater, say dividing for the neck and shoulder shaping?