MAJOR help needed to convert falt to round!

Hey Y’all:

I totally understand if I get no replies at all to this, because a) I need it done by Sat and b) it is somewhat time intensive.

However, I am knitting this sweater for the newest member of the family I nanny for (number four!!yikes!), and want a few things to happen…one, to knit in the round, and two, to have the edges curl.

So, question one. I would need to cast on 92 stitches and work even in st st for 8 and three quarter inches, and then split for the shoulders?

Question two: how would I knit the sleeves top down? Would I pick up 20 stitches around the arm hole and follow the pattern backwards, casting on stitches as needed?

Question three: because there is a placket on the left shoulder, I would 3N bind off only on the right?

thanks everyone for all their help…I appreciate it in so many ways, especially when the yarn shop isn’t open as often or as late as I think it should be!!lol

Katy

Actually, you’d only cast on 88 stitches (omit 2 selvedge stitches for each seam).

When I convert patterns from flat to circular, I usually join the shoulder seams (in this case yo’re right, join the one and then follow the placket instructions for the second) then pick up stitches around the armholes and knit them from shoulder to cuff in the round. So you’d pick up 44 stitches and follow the sleeve directions in reverse, ending up with 22 stitches.

And if you want it to curl, knit all stockinette instead of doing garter on the edges as written.

Good luck! :smiley:

Can you (or anyone else, for that matter) please explain the sleeves in a little more step by step detail?? I am a little muddled.

TIA
K

PS
Not a rush I am going to do the body first!!

Here are the directions as written:

Cast on 24 (26,28) stitches in CC, on smaller needle. Work 10 rows of garter stitch (1½ inches [4 cm]). Change to larger needles, and MC. Work in stocking stitch. Increase one stitch at start and end of 1st row. Then increase 1 stitch at each side every 2nd row 10 times. (46) stitches) Work even until sleeve measures 6 inches [15 cm] from start.

So this is how I’d figure it…

Pick up 44 stitches around the armhole opening – place marker at center of underarm
Knit even for 1.5 inches
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker, every other row until 22 stitches remain
Knit even for 1.5 inches

(this is assuming the row gauge is 10 rows=1.5 inches)

thanks so much Julie! I was just trying to figure out where you got the 44 stitches from!!

K

One more clarification, if you don’t mind. How long do I knit until dividing for the front and back? Is it 8 and 3/4 inches (and do you always follow the front length for dividing)?

Thanks!

When I did Alex’s pullover in the round, the instructions were the same for the front and back up to the armholes. If there is a difference of more than a ¼", I would be questioning why. As a side note, I use stitch markers to indicate the “side seams” until I divided so that I would know where the beginning of my round was, as well as where to do the decreases and bind offs.

Well, the only thing I am still confused about is the fact that the front starts shaping the neck at 8.75 inches, and the back doesn’t start shaping until 10.5 inches (or whatever it is). So, yeah…when exactly do I split?

I am sorry I am so dense!!!lol

K

The armpits are the same length from the bottom. That’s where you split. Then you can shape the front and back according to their directions.

My son’s pullover was the same way. Once I split it at the armholes, I worked the front and back sections separately working back and forth in rows, and followed the specific shaping directions for them. If you see the pic of him wearing it on my blog {can’t remember if I posted it in the Whatcha Knitting forum}, you can see the difference in the “stripes” of the varigated where I went from knittin gin the round to knitting flat.