Knitting in the round

I love knitting in the round because I hate seaming and I love seeing the entire garment at once. I just found this pattern and I would like to make it in the round, if possible. Can this be altered? How?
Thanks!

Since it appears that the front is knit in one piece–I originally thought it must be knit in two pieces.

What I would do is write out the line for the back and the corresponding line for the front so you don’t get confused as to which line your are on for each side. You can leave out the selvedge edge since you won’t need them for seaming, and you’ll have to reverse all the stitches that would have been on the wrong side. In this case it just looks like you’d knit them all rather than purl them all.

Since it’s only two short sides to seam, rather than seaming sleeves and sewing them in and such, if it gets too confusing to work it in the round, there wouldn’t be all that much seaming to do.

The two stitch pattern used (the garter rib and the chevron rib) both have all purl stitches as the wrong side rows, which makes it VERY easy to translate this into knitting in the round.

  1. Your cast on # will be decreased by 1 stitch on [U]each[/U] edge of both the front and back because you will not be needing an edge stitch for seaming. This means that the garter rib pattern, for example, will begin with a K1 rather than a K2, and will also therefore end with a K1 rather than a K2. The chevron rib will be adjusted in the same way, beginning and ending with a M1 instead of a K1.

  2. All WS rows as written with purl stitches, when in the round will be all knit stitches.

  3. Definitely use stitch markers to divide the front and the back, especially since the front and back have different stitch count it could get confusing. And remember to mark your beginning of round.

  4. You will only be able to work in the round up until you divide for the armholes. At that point you will have to go back to working back and forth, and will do the front and back seperately at this point. So because you go back to working flat, the stitch patterns will be worked as given in the pattern, with WS rows being purled and RS rows in pattern.

I haven’t read through the entire pattern and there may be other adjustments that need to be made but as far as I can see it should be fairly straight forward.

I am going to copy your instructions and follow them very closely. :happydancing: I guess the different directions of the front and back pieces (diagonal versus straight) is what threw me off. Thanks again for your help!

I think you’ll have to start the front first and work back and for, then at the row where you start the decreases on the sides, CO the back stitches and join. If you notice, the back isn’t as long as the front with its point.

sue