Knitting both arms at the same time

#1

I took a class on making a sweater several years ago, and we were taught how to knit both arms at the same time. I believe it’s somewhat similar to two socks on two needles, but I just can’t remember the method. Does anyone know how to do this? Is there any reason not to cast on from two separate balls of yarn and knit R1 arm 1 then R1 arm 2? And is it worth the confusion? Thanks

#2

I’ve just started knitting things (mittens, socks) in the round two at a time on one long needle.

Using either two separate balls of yarn or one center pull ball (using both ends) I CO the first item using ML method and knit an inch or so. Move it to a couple DPNS to hold it, CO the second and knit the same number of rounds.

Transfer first item back onto the ML needles and proceed. Knit side 1 of first item and side 1 of second item. Then side two of second item and side two of first item. It may sound confusing, but when it’s sitting in front of you it’s very clear what to knit with which strand of yarn.

Psychologically, it’s much faster as both are done at the same time. It also insures that tension, increases, decreases, color changes, etc, are done at the same time so items are identical.

You do have stop periodically and untwist the yarn, but it’s not a big deal, IMO.

Is it worth learning? Totally!

#3

I used to knit both sleeves at the same time all the time when I was knitting flat. I can’t see why you can’t cast on the sleeves in the same manner you would cast on 2 socks. For one large circ I would cast on half the stitches for the first sleeve then with my second ball, cast on the all the stitches of the second sleeve, then drop that yarn and cast on the remainder of the first sleeve.

For 2 circs, I’d cast on the first half of one sleeve and then with the next ball cast on the first half of the second. Then with the second needle I’d cast on the remainder of the second sleeve stitches and again, move on to the first ball of yarn and finish the first sleeve.

Thanks for mentioning this cause I’m going to do it on my next sweater project!

#4

I would think you’d have to use a separate strand of yarn for each sleeve. The other ladies have given you some ideas – go for it!

#5

I like that idea! Thanks! I’m knitting my first sweater and was looking for a way to knit both sleeves at the same time. This will work great. I’m really not looking forward to working on the DPN again.

#6

Yes, you are right about the method you suggested:
Row 1 for Sleeve A with Skein A, then immediately knit Row 1 for Sleeve B with Skein B.

Here is a GREAT SUGGESTION I received from one of our KH knitters: After you cast on both sleeves, take a safety pin and join the sleeves together. Just pin the last stitch on Sleeve A to the first stitch for Sleeve B. You can pin, or tie a piece of contrasting yarn for the ‘holding hands’. [U]Why connect them?[/U]

[B]Sometimes,[/B] after you’ve knit Sleeve A/Row 5 from left needle to right needle…you forget where you are. If you get a little bit distracted, or heaven forbid, have to put the work down…you might forget which is which! You might *start knitting the (Row 6) other side of Sleeve A before you knit Row 5 for Sleeve B! Then you are ALL TURNED AROUND! :eyes: You might not even notice it til 10 rows down the pike! :?? [I]Then you’re really lost![/I] Been there, done that! :teehee:

#7

Good tip, thanks ArtLady!

#8

[color="#330099"]For a two circular needles, I use loops of contrasting yarn as markers. I put one marker after stitch one of item one, then on item two I put two markers between sts 1 and 2.

That way I know the start of each round and which is “Thing 1” and which is “Thing 2.”

ArtLady, I like the idea of linking them together. Sometimes Thing 2 tries to escape off the other end of the needles as I’m getting ready to start a new round. It beats tucking my “Thing 2” sock between my left arm and body while still trying to knit on the first one. :oops:

Another advantage to two circulars over one ML.

When you find a mistake several rows back on only one item, you can separate them (slip stitch to move the trouble maker to a time out needle for corrections) The good one can rest and be rejoined once you’ve made your correction and caught back up. Oh and mark off (with thread) and count the number of rows back to the error to be corrected [B]BEFORE[/B] you FROG. (I bet most of you all knew that already, but no-one told me. :sad: )

(Currently working two at a time socks on two circulars.)
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