Knit Tips & Tricks


I had trouble knitting with circular needles because of the twisted cables between the needles. What I did was to heat water on the stove and dip the cable into the hot water and then hung it over the curtain rod in the kitchen. This straightened them out. They now hang over my fireplace tools. They stay straight and are so easy to use.



So many ideas to choose from! I love the idea of using ziplocs and having something written to show where I left off-I’ve undone many a project after leaving it too long! Well time to get back to my latest piece of knitting, again, something I started and have had to start again!


It is a lot more secure I’ve found. The only trouble I’ve run into–I used to weave my ends in as I go, but now I’m leaving them to the end, because once I do it this way, I can’t find them if I need to frog! :teehee:


Marria, finally! I’ve never been able to figure out why folks do it any other way. But you are right, do it after unless you really want to frustrate yourself.


Marria could you leave a marker of contrasting colored yarn at the point you weave in the ends? If you have to frog - frog to the marker. Once you are finished you remover the markers.


This is on Vogue Knitting’s website.

A to Z and Beyond the Basics

This has a lot of the same information that is in [U]Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book[/U]. I think the illustrations are particularly good on this site.


[B]This idea seemed to really work nicely-what do you think?[/B]
So…I hope I can explain this without going in circles…You know when you are doing a garment in the round, from the top down, and you separate to make armholes. At the bottom of the armhole you usually cast on a few stitches to each side and then re-join to knit the body in the round. The problem here is that there is a small hole at the first and last newly cast-on stitch. (At least for me).

This time, at each armhole, I cast on 2 more than the pattern said to, and worked my way on around. When I came to those newly cast-on stitches on the next row, I knit 2 tog with the with the last original stitch and the first cast on, and the last cast on and the first original stitch at the other end of the armhole.

Can anyone see what I’m saying here? It left me with an underarm without holes.
3 grandbabies:woohoo:


Great idea!


When I decided to knit my first sweater, I just couldn’t knit something simple - no way! That would be just too easy! I had to knit an aran sweater with cables galore! Needless to say, I got lost pretty quickly and had to go to the LYS to get some major help. One of the suggestions I was given is something I still do today if I am knitting something that has a pattern block in it such as cable work. I use stitch markers to mark the beginning and end of the area that is complicated. That way I know exactly where I am in the pattern and there is less room for mistakes such as forgetting a stitch in the pattern or beginning the pattern a stitch later. I find it really helpful as it means I don’t have to guess so much where I am and I don’t need to frog as much and guess what the mess is supposed to be!


After a long hiatus from knitting, I am getting reacquainted with this craft. After knitting several scarves I was ready to progress and attempt something more challenging. When a friend recently announced that she is pregnant I decided to try my hand at making the Diamond and Lace blanket by Bernat. Thanks for the tips on keeping track of a pattern and working with lace. I’m sure they will be a big help and thank you very much for this forum.

My addition – Always use a yarn winder [New Wool Winder by Royal] and keep each skein in a knee high stocking.


What I also do for aran type projects, if all cables aren’t on same row repeat (i.e. one might be every 8 rows, another on 6 rows and the others every 10 rows), is I place a stitch market for each cable at the beginning of the work, that way I know EXACTLY where I am on each cable at all times.


I picked up a package of split rings at one of the craft stores in both silver and gold. If I have a pattern repeat every 6 rows I interlock 6 split rings. I have something, a bead or some kind of dangle, that say this is the beginning, and a different color ring for the fifth ring. Each round I advance a ring and when I come to the end I cable or do what ever the pattern requires.

This allows me to put the piece down and know how many rounds/rows till the pattern action.


Did you know you could steam iron the cord on your circulars?

I was getting really frustrated while trying to unkink my circular needles. I have several sizes of the 29" bamboo type circulars. I tried running hot water over them while stretching them. And I tried steaming them over a kettle. That gave only a slight improvement, but mostly it just got my fingers burnt. Ouch! Finally after steam-blocking a swatch one evening I went to bed, and while dozing off it occurred to me that I could probably also steam/iron the cord of my circulars.

The next morning I wet a washcloth and folded it into a thick wad. I put one end of the circular cord in the middle of the wad with the bamboo part sticking out. I placed the iron on top of the washcloth wad, then grabbed the bamboo end and slowly pulled the cord through while holding the iron on top. It worked great! In no time the cord was straight and my fingers weren’t burnt. I was so excited I immediately ironed all the rest my circulars. I’m really amazed how easy this was, and how fast. It has solved all my kinking problems. And if the circulars revert back to kinkiness from being rolled up in my knitting bag, I just iron them again, ha!

It may seem like a small thing, but I was so happy to figure this out that I acted just like this little guy ==> :woot:


[COLOR=blue]This is a great idea! Thanks for the tip.[/COLOR]


There is another quick way to loosen up the cord on circular needles. I just use a blow dryer on the high setting. I put the circular needles on the bathroom counter, and blow the hair dryer very close to the cord. It unkinks itself as you blow it…you don’t even have to stretch it out…it just slowly unfolds.

I usually pick up the needle and give it a good stretch anyway when I turn off the hair dryer. It works very well for me.


When I have more than one pattern in an afghan such as I do now for 2 blankets, I use index cards for each pattern. I write one row on each card. Makes it easier to pick it up the next time.

I use markers between each pattern. This way if there’s a problem with the pattern, I know it at the end of the pattern and not the end of the row.



One of the best tips I have…(I did a happy dance when I came up with this, and continue to do a mental happy dance as it just takes too long to do the actual dance while knitting). Put the yarn you are working with in a plastic grocery bag(or bag with handles), and if or when it twists up…either on itself, or if you are working with two strands and they twist around each other, take the project you are working on, and hold it up with one hand, take the bag in the other with your pointer finger holding the bag lower to the ground, and twirl the bag around and around. I twirl the bag clockwise as that is how the yarn untwists for me when knitting with double strands. The yarn strand(s) will wind around the top of the bag…just under your finger. When it winds up to the point you don’t have any more room to wind or you feel its been enough spins, drop the bag, and gently pull up on the yarn strand and it will come off the bag top, and it should be untwisted. Repeat as needed. I hope this helps, and I hope there will be a lot of happy dances out there!


This is great, I do it too. Especially helpful when working with 2 strands so they don’t constantly twirl around each other.


I just did that, but after a few tries I realized I needed to spin it counter clockwise. :think:

I use a canvas bag, and I’m planning to try some modifications on it.

  1. Put an oval piece of wood in the bottom as a base so it will stand up.

  2. Run a seam down the middle from top to bottom to divide it into two “tubes.” I can then put one skein up in each side.


I am a very tight knitter and when working stockinette in the round I have trouble sliding the stitches on the left needle. I have found that just using a tip one size smaller on the left needle makes it easier to keep things moving, and it doesn’t affect my gauge since the right hand needle forms the stitches.

On the other hand, when working stockinette back and forth, my gauge with purling is looser, so if I am having a big discrepancy, I will put different sized tips on my needles in order to use a larger one for the knit side and a smaller one for the purl side. I guess these only work with interchangeables - love my Options!

I am trying to tighten up my purl stitches to match, but with some yarns the difference is more obvious. Also, when I get tired or stop actively thinking about it, the purl stitches get looser again.

PS - Jack did you go to NCSU? I went to vet school there (Carolina for undergrad)! :slight_smile: