Knit Tips & Tricks


I Just a beginner knitter and one problem i kept coming across was a tightness in my casting on which made it very hard for me to knit the first row. As once i start knitting my knitting is fairly good and not as tight. I found a solution to that though. What i do know is place two kneedles together as im casting on and then remove one needle once i have all the stitches i need. It made things so much easier. i recommend it to any new knitters who have a very tight casting on. It works wonders. :balloons:


That IS a great tip! :woot:


That is a great idea! Another trick I’ve used, because I still tend to cast on too tightly is that I use a needle one or two sizes larger to cast on my stitches and then just begin knitting with the needle size I am actually going to use for my pattern.


The cable cast on is also good, I almost exclusively use that for my socks especially.


This is a great one. I am also a tight knitter, so I use this trick also.


I solved that problem of 2 “equal sides” as well as with the sleeves…I use two sets of needles and yarn and work at least 10 rows of the left side, then work 10 rows of the right side. If I have a detailed pattern, I will complete the pattern before moving on to the next side. Sometimes I use a counter.


I do this, but do both sleeves on the same needles. The only drawback is that if I mess up, I have to frog two sleeves.


I use [B]two separate sets of needles & yarn. [/B] If you mess up on one set, you will not make the same mistake on the other set.
Go slow, speed comes with experience. Also [B]talk to yourself [/B]i.e.k1, p1, yo, etc. This registers with your brain which sends the message to your fingers. (This method is a scientific fact & I use it to tutor music which helps to get the rhythm in the hands & aids the memorization process.) If you cannot afford the Knitting Help CD, an excellent source of technique info, then try the and search “knitting tech”. Hope this helps.


I think most of us eagerly run to the patterns whenever Knitty puts out a new issue, but lately I’ve been going back and reading some of their technique articles, and there is some really good stuff there!

One I think is especially good is Jenna Wilson’s article on gauge. Wish I could have read that when I was first learning and didn’t get the concept of how important it is…otherwise I might not have ended up with the giant oversized sweater of doom that still lurks in my closet somewhere. :teehee:


Hi, Marria! :waving:

WHAT an article! Thanks for posting this. My eyes have practically crossed reading it :roflhard: but I can honestly say I’m enlightened! This is a GREAT article and I definitely plan to go into it again much more thoroughly.

Although I always understood, reluctantly, the importance of swatching, and did it, I had no idea of the intricacies involved that are explained in this article.

This is a great piece of work and I appreciate your generosity in sharing it! :thumbsup:

Happy knitting (and swatching!) :yay:

Ruthie :knitting:


I regularly visit goodwill and other thrift stores to find small open straw bags. I put each project that I have going into them as well as a copy of my pattern. They usually have inside pockets too. I only buy ones that have a flat bottom to they stand up on their won. And, I pay less than $5 per bag. So, when I need to grab something to knit on the go I have everything I need for the project in a cute bag I can grab and toss into the car!

I also use a small magnetic dry erase board to keep a row count and pattern info on certain projects.


I like to use charts in knitting, but sometimes I will find a pattern with many lines to the repeat that isn’t charted, and I worry about making a mistake if I were to chart it myself. But on the other hand, when the pattern repeat has, say for example 24 rows, it’s really easy to get off track and make a mistake. To avoid this, I started using index cards and a little ring (sort of like the ones that are in a 3 ring binder, except they are just individual rings). A rubber band will work too.

Then, I write one individual line along with what line number it is on one card for each line. I punch a hole in the corner, put them on the ring or rubber band in the proper order, and then just flip the card each time I finish a row. This really helps to prevent getting on the wrong row. Also, if I have to stop on a particular row before the pattern is done, I just put a post-it on the card I stopped with and write the date on it. Easy peasy!

(Note–if I am doing a lace pattern where all the even rows are purled across, then I leave the even rows out.)


I made some row counters and someone thought I should put in the Tips. So here they are and how to use them

When you start knitting row 1 knit to the middle of the row and then put the first loop on your needle( this tells you you are knitting row 1) then knit to end of row. Knit back across and when you get to the loop slip it back to your other needle BUT put it on the second loop (now you are on row 2).Just keep slipping the loop to the next loop every time you come to it. Hope this makes sense:eyes:


[COLOR=royalblue]Yes, That makes complete sence :thumbsup: [/COLOR]


Momwolf - they do look nice. Being a guy I’m not quite into the bling, do not read this as a negative just different style. I do have some type of dangle at one end to show where the count starts I use split rings interlocked into each other. Quick simple and easy to redo if I need different counts.

I have many with one ring to show a change in pattern, two rings for 1 row increase/decrease row and plain row patterns, three rings for 1 row increase/decrease row and 2 plain row patterns.
I have a five ring but normally use the 10 ring change. On the 10 ring counter the 5th and 10th rings are different color to make it easy to see when I am have way there.

I will say that after seeing Momwolf’s fine example I may have to add some bling to my counters.


I have been knitting for 21 years now, and I still come across stuff that seems sooo simple. Forinstance, joining yarn. I recently learned that when you run out, you don’t tie a knot on the wrong side of your work…ha ha. I had no idea. I learned that on a 4 ply worsted or sport weight, unravel 2 strands of the old and the new and cut the 2 strands of of each. You can loop the old yarn with the new and rub it back and forth on your jeans to felt the two together…you can’t even tell the difference, and you don’t have that uncomfortable knot on the wrong side of your work! That was my duh moment.


Just to add…This only works with wool and other animal fibers. Superwash wool won’t work either. :wink:


Thanks Jan! I was going to say the same thing.


I’ve recently learned to use duplicate stitch for weaving in ends, and I love it! The weaving in doesn’t show at all. You can do this on reverse stockinette and garter stitch as well as on stockinette. The article that taught me how to do this is here:

Check it out. You may never want to weave any other way again!


Thank you so much for this link. Weaving in ends is one of my top three things about knitting that I don’t like to do (even though it’s a necessity). Now I might like it because I know how to make it more secure.