Dot! That’s got to be one of the best ever tips! I’m rooting around for bobby pins now!
Dot! That’s got to be one of the best ever tips! I’m rooting around for bobby pins now!
Legal disclaimer - I’ve only been knitting a little bit, however, I read a lot and take ideas and put them together.
A. To minimize ladders it is not the first stitch after the move from one needle to another, it is the second and third. The first stitch after going from one needle to another 1) doesn’t have enough tension to prevent ladders 2) the needle with that first stitch has to much movement to make a tight stitch.
Knit the first stitch, begin knitting the second stitch and as you start to pull the new stitch through the loop pull on the yarn until you see the first stitch pull tight. Do this with the third stitch, on the fourth stitch begin knitting normally.
B. If you pattern will allow - rotate the point where you pass from one needle to another every so many rounds. For example. assuming the use of 4 DPs. Needle 1 has stitches 1 to 10, needle 2 has stitches 11 to 20 and needle 3 has stitches 21 to 30.
For the first four rounds knit the stitches on the needle as above. On round 5 knit stitches 1 to 10, when you come to stitches 11 and 12 knit them on to needle 1. Then move to needle 2 and knit stitches 13 to 20 and then knit stitches 21 and 22 on to needle 2. Move to needle 3 and knit stitches 23 to 30 and then knit stitches 1 and 2 onto needle 3.
Depending on your pattern you may want to put markers Between stitches 10 and 11, 20 and 21, and 30 and 1.
While knitting in round, i join new and old yarn together by tying a knot and then knit with the new yarn - i really dont like it as there is always a bump/knot there and that stitch seems to be smaller/tighter than the rest. Is a sore-eye to me!!
Would love to hear and learn new trick to this, thanks.
Hi, Jackie! :waving:
One way to deal with this “knotty” problem is to knit almost to the end of the old yarn, leaving a tail of about 5 or 6 inches. Tie the new yarn, in a knot, [I]around[/I] the strand of the old yarn and also leave a 5 or 6 inch tail on this. Slide the new yarn all the way up the old yarn strand so that you can pick up the next stitch with it. Continue knitting. When you’re finished, pick the little knot apart and then weave in both tails as you normally would.
In the KH forum, there are some super great videos on different ways to join new yarn. Check them out and see if you can find your favorite!
Also, I use the larger ones to count rows
I keep a section of the round with the number of rows between increases/decreases, each round when i get to the first marker, i knit to the moving one, when I get to it, i ignore it and knit the stitch behind it and pick it up again with that stitch (it moved over one space) when it gets to the end, it is time to do the increases. I hope some of your brains around this, its hard, but I know U R a lot smarter than I am.
Also, i make my own, using metal needles as a size guide. Then I have plenty. I only use the plastic ones for counting.
I knit that first stitch (when joining the first row in the round) with the C.O. tail and then take over with the yarn itself starting on stitch 2 of join. You have to tighten that first stitch only while you knit the 2nd row, but then it stays tight.
I have found that slipping the first stitch can be done a variety of ways
yarn back, then slip as to purl makes a tight clove-hitch type knot at the edge
slip as to purl THEN yarn back makes a nice neat edge like in stockinette
I felt VERY clever when I figured this out
I have found a digital kitchen scale to be a nifty help with knitting. I first used it to split skeins of sock yarn equally so I could knit 2 socks at a time. I set the scale to grams and then put a bowl on the scale and zero it. I weigh the whole skein of yarn and figure out what weight I need for a single ball. I hand wind my balls so I just put the ball in the bowl every once in a while until I have the weight I need. I cut the yarn and then wind the second ball.
My other use for the scale was figuring out if I had enough yarn to finish a shawl. I needed to do eight rows and knew I could do at least 4 with the yarn I had left. After the second row I weighed the yarn I had left. I knit one row and weighed the yarn again. I figured I had enough yarn to do the next six rows. I was still increasing so I measured the weight of the yarn after each row I knit. I finished the shawl with about eight inches of yarn to spare.
I do the exact same thing! In fact ,I used a Christmas gift certificate from a kitchen store to get my scale last year. Maybe one day I’ll use it for food, but so far it’s a yarn scale!
I was at Bass Pro Shops and saw a fishing line counter and the light went off that this could be used to count the yardage left in yarn spools.
They have two versions one is electronic ~ $12 US and a this one which is mechanical ~ $13US. I like the mechanical because I find batteries always run out just when I need them.
One day I’m going to mount it on some thing nice, however, while waiting for that “one day” I use the handle of a coffee cup.
I bought a toe ring at a craft show about 25 years ago. I haven’t worn it in years, but I dug it out for a stitch marker. Makes me feel like hot stuff, having a Real Gold stitch marker. It also brings back great memories of The Sawdust Festival.
When I have to attach a new skein in the middle of a job, I use a square knot, so both ends lie flat (one before the knot – the other one after the knot–and the knot is flat, too). I leave about a 1-2" tail on each piece, then knit the first tail in as I go, working across the knot, then working the 2nd tail in after the knot. (I hope this makes sense.) The result is NO TAILS TO WORK IN LATER, which is one of the few things I don’t like about knitting.
I used my wedding band once. :teehee:
LOL! I hope the project was a gift for Hubby.
This is such a helpful post! Thank you all.
I am about to knit my first lace scarf (in between knitting an afghan), and appreciate all the tips here. I have no extra tips to add yet, but hope to soon.
I seem to do more knitting away from home then at home, lunch at work, riding the metro etc., so I carry a lot of odds and ends. Once of my favorite odd or maybe end is a thread puller/nit picker from my sewing knit. This is the little latch hook devise used to pull snagged threads to the back side of fabric or clothing. I has a cover to protect the hook and extend the handle when in use. If I drop a stitch while out I pull out my nit picked and reach through the last loop and pull the yarn back through. Since it is small and light weight it is a great addition to my knitting bag.
Also, I normally use two circular needles to knit socks but while at my LYS I saw some DPs on sale. I picked them up to try. Got back to work with time to knit and replaced the circular needles with DPs. When I started to pack up my knitting I was concerned about the needles falling out of the stitches. Looking around I saw two old dried up markers that I had just thrown out. the caps looked like just the right size to go around the needle points. I cleaned the caps and then taped a rubber band around the ends of the two caps. I now have a DP needle holder that I’m not afraid to lose.
As I said in the post above I do a lot of KIP(K) (knitting in Public - frequently Kilted) and carry a lot of odds and ends but often it in not easy or easy to pull out what I need. One item is the tape measure to see where I am. Therefore I have taken a set of knitting measurement:
base of palm to tip of longest finger = 8 inches
hand side to side at base of fingers = 3.25 inches
longest finger - 3.5 inches
tip of thumb to tip of pinky fnger ( stretched ) = 9.25 inches.
These are not exact, but what I’m looking for is a gauge to tell me when to pull out the tape measure. If the foot of my sock is 9 1/2 inches before I start the gusset then I don’t have to worry about the tape measure until I reach from the tip of my thumb to about 1/2 the way up my pinky finger.
I find that it is easy to forget my tape measure but it is not easy to knit if I have left my hand at home.
When joining a second color:
Do not knot the new yarn but leave a tail so the first stitch won’t pull out, you may then adjust the tension of the first few (new color sts.) later. Also, when knotting these (for finishing) if your yarn is strong enough: untwist the tail (to be knotted) into (2) 2 ply strands, pull one of these through the nearest st and tie the 2 plies tog. for a bulk free knot!
When knitting a seamed item such as a sweater I like to reduce knots wherever possible ('cause I don’t like having to hide them!) - by leaving a tail long enough to work the side seams before casting on a sweater bottom; also before the wrist rib on a sleeve.