Knit Tips & Tricks


Thanks, yup I’m Arielluria there too, add me to friends and I’ll see you there when I get off my Ravelry diet. :wink:


I don’t know if I have said in this thread before or not, but,

[SIZE=5]There are no mistakes in knitting![/SIZE]

What occurs are design elements that we did not initially plan on. If we like the new design element we keep it, if we don’t like the design element, we save the idea for possible latter use, frog back to a good point and work on other new design elements.

The pair of socks I am now working on have had about eight new design elements that I decided not to use in this design.

True I could finish projects faster if I paid more attention to the intended design elements, but, I knit for fun, not speed.


Here’s a gauge/sizing tip:

When you begin a garment that’s constructed in pieces, make the size your gauge swatch says you should and then CHECK your gauge BEFORE you get to any size-specific elements. THEN, if necessary, change to a different size.
For example, I’m making Athos. I began on the back using my gauge swatch of 4.5 spi, so I CO for size S. When I got to the sleeves, I discovered that my gauge was actually 4.75 spi. I’m doing the sleeve decreases so that my bind-offs and decreases bring the stitch counts to the size M stitch counts. Then I will begin the FRONT on the size L. When I get to the sleeves, I’ll switch so the bind offs and decreases will bring the stitch counts to match the M so the front and back will match at the shoulders. This way, it’s big enough around the middle, the side seams are slightly toward the back (no big deal), but the shoulders will match and it will FIT! I’ve done this on other projects and it turns out beautifully without a lot of re-knitting.

I hate it when my gauge swatch lies, but when it does, I can (usually) still make it work!


I have been getting my patterns in large binders, the millions I have in drawers and cupboards. Bought a couple binders at wallmart. Also found a great way to keep all the needles and hooks. Also at wallmart It is a folding case for bathroom items for travel and little file case for the cables. The travel case was 13.99 and the binders 4.99 . Here is photo of some results, if you need some ideas for organized. link to photo to big to post here:


Good work :cheering:, I just LOOOOOOOOOVE getting organized! :woot:


silly question I know but what is a []‘lifeline’?[/]


Not a silly question, we have all asked it one time or another.

A life line is a piece of floss. thread or some type of marker at is threaded through a know good row of knitting. If you have to frog this will stop the frogging at a know good point. If you have interchangeable needles you can put this line in the hole used to tighten the needle.

#208 all done it. While doing our magic loop socks ,2 at once, our yarns become twisted around each other. I was working on two sleeves and came up with this idea. When you finish one item (sock, sleeve) store that ball of yarn inside your item, then go on to the next one, pull out the ball of yarn, work the second sock,sleeve, put that yarn inside. NO MORE TANGLES. Ellie:woot:


My hints may have already been noted but here goes:

As I get a lot of my patterns from those who are gracious enough to share through websites and blogs, to keep track I have started a database that includes the following: website, pattern author, recommended needles and yarn, yarn and needles used (if different), and a photo of completed work. When written down it may seem time consuming but believe me it’s come in very handy for me.

We all know how hard it is to pass up a good yarn sale, which results in a multitude of yarn skeins with no room to store. I now store mine in vacuum storage bags. Works great with wool and other natural fibers. Keeps it dry and I have stored about 30 skeins in a large bag.


Here is a rip from me:yay:

If I do a pattern and I go wrong within the rows I had done. I put a smaller single pointed needle in that row and undo it till you get to that row with the smaller needle on and it saves loosing your stitches :happydance:


I am trying my first ever two at once socks and have a little case that separates the two balls of yarn. I now that I have used it for a while I am beginning to really dislike the case because it has solid holes in the lid where the yarn passes through. If for some reason I want to change the case I either have to cut the yarn or unravel the entire ball of yarn.

When in Target yesterday I noticed in the dollar section up front a small bag designed to hold six bottles in separate pockets. My intent is to put each ball of yarn in its own pocket and have pockets left over for tools. pattern ect.

I think the multi-pocket bag will also come in handy when I start some color work.


I thought I’d add in my own tips; don’t think I saw them listed.

I have two tote bags and two snap top lid boxes; tote bags I keep my yarn (not in use) in and boxes I keep projects, working yarn, and needles/crochet hooks in. I also bought a knitting book w/cd that has some plastic zipper bags that can be useful. (Can be meaning I haven’t used them yet.)

Patters: I have trouble reading them with just the “boxes”; can’t use a ruler because I have a 2 year old and I’d lose my spot. Don’t want to mark on it and can’t afford plastic sleeves/dry erase markers? I copy the pattern in a spiral notebook and then when I number the rows: odd numbers on the right, even on the left. That way when I stop I can see what row I’m on based on if I’m knitting (odd) or purling (even). Now if the first row is purling you can just reverse the idea: purl (odd) knit (even). Helpful to me at least.


Hi, everyone! :waving:

Cacuun mentioned using a container for knitting with two balls of yarn. Some time ago I came up with this idea and it’s been very helpful -

I take a gallon zip loc bag and using a zig-zag stitch I stitch down the middle of the bag. This gives me two pockets for yarn and I can either clip the corners and pull the yarn out through the bottom or, if I’m using one without the little zipper thingy for closing it, I can pull the yarn out the top corners and just squeeze the top shut along the tracks in the middle.

This was so helpful to me. All I had to do was just flip the whole bag over and if I flipped it the wrong way, just another couple of flicks of the wrist and I was good to go!

Hope this helps!

Ruthie :hug:


Good idea. I use the ziplocks too. Before starting I punch a hole with a paper hole puncher just under the ziplock zipper to thread my yarn through. If I need to stick the project in the bag, only about 1" of yarn is exposed.


Ok so how do I tell the difference between a knit or purl on the row under the one I just knit?


As you’re facing the next row, a purl stitch will have a pearl appearance. It looks like a turtle neck
A knit stitch will have a v-shape, like a v-neck.



[I]Late at night, when the family’s all asleep,
you will find me counting stitches
instead of counting sheep![/I]

Did you make this saying up or find it somewhere? I love it & would love to add it to a scarf I’m knitting. Do you mind?:muah:
Thanks & (((HUGS))) Verna


I haven’t read all the pages so maybe this has been mentioned but I will re-list it

If I have an intricate pattern and I’m working in a dark color. I do a test piece with bigger needles and light colored wool. I then mark each row with different colored pieces of wool. So I just take that piece of wool out of the test piece to remind me where I am in the patter…

Hope this helps…:mrgreen:


Here’s another one that’s probably been mentioned before, but it just came up in my latest project, so I thought I’d share in case someone else may have forgotten this one.
If you’re working on a pattern where you have to count rows and might lose track, remember that the tail of your work is at the front when you’re starting an odd-numbered row, and at the back when you’re starting an even-numbered row. Sometimes that little clue is all you need to figure out where you are in a pattern. :wink:


I use my plastic blocking board to hold the pieces of knitting that I am sewing together in place. I line up the two pieces and hold them in place with pins. This helps keep the pieces lined up across from each other so that you don’t end up with one piece being shorter than another. It is a great help in setting in sleeves.