Kids Cardi Help

I am making my daughter an alpaca cardigan with a goblet hem. I was doing great until the pattern assumed I understood what I was doing rather than just doing what the pattern told me.

Work ruffle as follows:
R1: (WS) k5p11, k5 rep from to end
R2: p5 *k2tog, k7, ssk, p5 rep from * to end
R3: k5 *p9, k5 from * to end
R4: p5 *k2tog, k5, ssk, p5 from * to end
Cont in the way, dec 1 st at each side of knit sts on every RS rows and working 2 purl sts less in each rep on every WS rows until 3 knit sts rem for each ruffle ending with a WS row.

I am completely confused with what I have to do after frow 4. Any guidence would be GREATLY appreciated!

On each of the even numbered rows, for each repeat of the pattern after the asterisk, you are doing two decreases which aren’t made up for by doing any corresponding increases, so for each even row, you are going to have two fewer stitches per repeat. (When I say per repeat, I mean for each time you repeat the instructions after the asterisk.)

So, let’s look at each individual line.

Row 1: k5 *P11, K5, etc… <–Here the stitches in the repeat add up to 16 (P11 + K5=16 st.)

Row 2: P5 *K2tog, K7, SSK, P5, etc. <–On this row, you “lose” two of the stitches for each repeat, so instead of 16, you will end up with 14. (K2tog + K7 + SSK + P5 = 14 st)

Row 3: k5 *p9, k5, etc. <-- P9 + K5 = 14 stitches, which is what you end up with after doing the decreases on the previous row.

Row 4: P5 * K2tog, K5, SSK, P5, etc. <–The reason you only have a K5 here (instead of a K7 like you did on row 2) is because you lost the two stitches from the K2tog and the SSK you did on row 2. So you’d have 12 stitches in each pattern repeat. (K2tog + K5+ SSK + P5 = 12 st.)

So to continue on–

Row 5: K5 * P7, K5, etc. <-- P7+K5 = 12 st., which is what you’d have for each repeat after your decreases on row 4.

Row 6: P5 *K2tog, K3, SSK, P5, etc. <–You only have a K3 here (instead of a K5 like in row 4) because you lost two more stitches when you did the decreases on row 4. So for each repeat you’d have K2tog + K3 + SSK + P5 = 10 st.

Row 7: K5 *P5, K5, etc… <–Your repeat is for 10 stitches because that’s what you decreased to on row 6.

Row 8: P5 *K2tog, K1, SSK, P5, etc…

Row 9: K5 *P3, K5, etc…

So if you look at the numbers, you can see a pattern where the number of stitches K after the asterisk on the even rows, and the number of stitches purled after the asterisk on the odd rows keeps decreasing by two.

I hope this makes some sense. This is kind of hard to explain in writing!

Marria gave a very good answer. I’m not sure what you’d do after row 9, you wouldn’t have enough stitches in a repeat to carry the pattern any further.

Cont in the way, dec 1 st at each side of knit sts on every RS rows and working 2 purl sts less in each rep on every WS rows until 3 knit sts rem for each ruffle ending with a WS row.
Maybe that means you continue the repeats of the pattern rows only until you have the 3 knits in each repeat. That would be through row 6 only, then add a row 7 worked like Marria said to end with a wrong side row. Does that make sense with your ruffle?

Yeah, I totally missed that part. So I think you probably would end after row 6. Do you have a photo of the pattern that you could post.

I would love to post a pic but its from the book Natural Knits for Babies and Toddlers. But if you see the book its the picture from the cover. (you cant see the ruffle around the bottom though)

What’s the name of the pattern? If others have made the pattern, I might be able to find some pictures on Ravelry.

How is the sweater coming along?

I scanned in a pic. Hope this helps!

the goblet hem is going well. Thank you for all the direction. It made so much more sense once you explained it. I have done through row 6, but I am thinking there must be more??? My hem is about 1 inch long. And from the pics there’s looks about 2?

Then you probably repeat the rows.

Yes, I agree. Does it tell you how many stitches you are supposed to have when you finish all the decreases? If so, you can use that as a guideline.

Well do you think I can add an extra row like 1 or 3? Here are the directions up to the pint where I am knitting strait until the back is the correct length. I checked my tension with my swatch and I was right on, but now I am a little off when I am knitting. Is it safe to add an extra row every couple rows to create a little more length or will that make the hem silly? Thanks for all the help with this. I have never had so much trouble with a pattern. I feel like a newbie to knitting when I have been knitting for years actually!

Work ruffle as follows:
R1: (WS) k5p11, k5 rep from to end
R2: p5 *k2tog, k7, ssk, p5 rep from * to end
R3: k5 *p9, k5 from * to end
R4: p5 *k2tog, k5, ssk, p5 from * to end
Cont in the way, dec 1 st at each side of knit sts on every RS rows and working 2 purl sts less in each rep on every WS rows until 3 knit sts rem for each ruffle ending with a WS row.
Next row: P5 sl2tog, k1, psso, p5 rpt from * to end
Next row: k5
p1, k5 rep from * to end
**
Change to st st and beg with a knit row, dec 1 st evenly across next row (76 sts)

Hi Deja,

Everyone runs into a pattern sometime that completely throws them for a loop!

I am not sure what you mean about what you posted being the pattern up to the point of the ruffle–it looks like it is the ruffle. It looks though like the pattern up to the point of the ruffle is very straightforward. Is it stockinette? If so, I don’t think there should be a problem with your adding rows in the main body.

The way the ruffle is written with the decreases you must do the ruffle first and then go into the body of the sweater. Is that right? Yes, I think you could do an extra even row (or would you have to do 2 to make the decreases on the correct side?) between the decrease rows to make the ruffle longer. Throw in as many as you need to get what you want. Should work.

I guess I am hoping that it would be alright to add an extra even row inbetween my decrease rows of the ruffle. I want to do this to add length…

Marria,
I am hoping to increase the ruffle length. My ruffle is not as long as it should be and if I left it at the current length it would look very silly.

MarigoldinWA,
Yes, you are right to think that I am supposed to knit the ruffle and go right into the sweater body.