Keeping pattern in knitted triangle?

How-to Questions
1

Hi!

I was thinking about knitting a triangular shaped shawl, but it was kind of long time ago since I last knitted one. I would need a little reminder.

I’m planning to make this simple net pattern:

http://www.ensaligblandning.se/2010/04/sticka-ett-harnat/

1st row: (inside) knit one, purl 43, knit the last.
2ond row: (outside) knit 1, put yarn over the needle, knit two together repet betwen -

How am I supposed to do to follow the pattern, and make increases so it looks even? I don’t want to go “off pattern”, the net still has to look symmetrical.

Explanations or diagrams would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Linnea

2

This pattern won’t make a triangle, more like a square. So if you want to start at the tip of one, then CO 3, knit 1 row, then k1 YO, k2 on the next. Do alll WS rows as k1 YO knit the rest of the row, and the RS rows would be k1 YO k2tog, yo to the end of the row and k1, repeating the (k2tog yo) sts. Keep alternating a yo knit row with the pattern row until it’s as large as you want.

3

Thankäs alot. I THINK I understand, but I have to admit I’m getting kind of dizzy.
Could you do me the favour to be a little bit more specific and make an example? Like:

CO 3

Row 1: K3
Row 2: K1, YO, K2
Row 3: K1, YO, k2tog, yo, K1

Continue some rows so I can get help to see the pattern… :S

I get a little confused. Shouldn’t the “inside row” be Knit 1, Purl, knit the last? Where are the purls in the inside row in the example above?

Thanks!

Linnea

4

Here’s the triangle I want do do:

This is the pattern i want to follow:

1st row: (inside) knit one, purl, knit the last.
2nd row: (outside) knit 1, put yarn over the needle, knit two together repet betwen -

Can anyone show me where and how my increases should be?

Like:

Row 1:
Row 2:
Row 3:
and so on

Thanks!

5

There’s a couple ways to do it - with purls on the WS or aslo repeating the yo k2tog pattern on the WS. The lace pattern will add only 1 stitch on the row that it’s done, but to make a triangle you need 1 inc on every row or 2 on every other one. So if you do a purl row, you would have to do a YO at the beg of it.

Play around with both ideas and see how you like it. I know there’s several basic shawl recipes that would work, but I can’t recall where to find them. I’ll try to look and see if I have a copy of one and let you know.

6

Oh, I just noticed your diagram, and you want a shawl that starts at one side and goes to the other. There’s lots of those.

Here’s one that would work very well - Aubreyand the extra lacey baktus. These are both done by knitting every row, but they don’t look like it so much. You could purl the WS rows if you wanted.

7

Thanks!

Is this the right way to go? My own yo are fat and cursivated. I DON’T want to loose the pattern.

(pic: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_l4HAKwaolzI/S0NpUE9ACEI/AAAAAAAAAqg/2fKvJg8PEAE/s1600/giveaway.gif )

My yo are fat and cursivated.

CO 3 sts

Row: [U][B]yo[/B][/U], K1, [U][B]yo[/B][/U]
Row: K1, P1, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B]
Row: K1, P2, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P3, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P4, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P5, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P6, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P7, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo[/U][/B], K1
Row: K1, P8, K1

etc

Will it work?
And… If i shows I need more tilting to the right, I’ll have to make to increases in the same row… Where should I put the other one, to not go off-pattern?

8

With an end to end shawl, you want one edge straight and one edge increasing. Or do you want it bottom up?

These 2 rows - Row: [U][B]yo[/B][/U], K1, [U][B]yo[/B][/U] and Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B][U]yo [/U][/B]- won’t work, you need an edge st with the YOs inside them. Maybe you meant - k yo k yo k on that first one which gives you 5 sts, then next would be: K1, P2, K1 and on the follow row - k, yo k2tog, yo, k2 tog.

What’s a fat ‘cursivated’ YO? A yo is a YO, and its size depends on the needle size and how loose or tight you make it.

9

Thanks!

Okej, nevermind "Row: yo, K1, yo and Row: K1, yo, k2tog, yo " They’re wrong.

But the rest. The fat YO is the one’s iv’e put there MYSELF, so I wonder if they will work.

I want one edge straight and one edge increasing and I want to do this pattern:

Have I calculated right or will I mess it up?

10

The picture you link to is a snood, a head covering, and the pattern is sort of a square. I understand that you want to use the same stitch pattern to make a mesh.

If you want one edge straight and the other inc to the center, then the inc edge decs look at the shawls in the links I posted above. They’re very similar to what you want, and if you want purl rows on the WS instead of knit, they’ll work with that. But pretty much, your ideas should work out.

When you’re making your own pattern, sometimes it’s better to figure it out by actually knitting it than to ‘see’ it in your head. So go ahead and try it, and if it doesn’t work out as you’ve written, then see where you could make changes.

11

I know, you’re absolutely right! I just find it so sad knitting wrong… It makes me cry, honestly. :help:
But I feel a bit more secure now and I will go ahead and test it.

Short question: Which decrease will match my yarn over in tilting and such? There is a couple to choose from:
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/decreases

12

You can’t really knit ‘wrong’. It’s all a part of making your own pattern - you try it one way and if that doesn’t give you the result you want, do it another way. You can use either k2tog or ssk, even though they lean differently, when they’re between yarnovers it really doesn’t matter.

13

Well, I know. You try, you fail, you learn, you do it right. A necessary part of the process. But I get so upset I might just leave-in and stop trying.

Thanks for the decrease-tips. Since the rest of decreases are k2tog, it probably would be best to do mine k2tog too? :slight_smile:

14

You can keep 'em all the same. Or… you can do k2tog on one row and ssk on another and usually get a different look. You can experiment - k2tog yo on one and ssk yo for the other. That sometimes gives you a zig zaggy effect.

15

That would probably look nice, but I want it nice and even just like the picture. :slight_smile: So k2tog it is, then?

16

It’s your knitting… whatever you decide will be fine.

17

Hm… thought about this one too… :wink:

CO 3 sts

Row: [B]yo[/B], K1, [B]yo[/B]
Row: K1, P1, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B]
Row: K1, P2, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P3, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P4, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P5, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P6, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P7, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P8, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P9, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo[/B], K1
Row: K1, P10, K1

Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P9, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P8, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P7, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P6, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P5, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P4, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P3, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog[/B]
Row: K1, P2, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog, K1
Row: K1, P1, K1
Row: K1, yo, k2tog
Row: K1, P1
Row: k2tog

Bind Off

18

Throw out this row - [B]yo[/B], K1, [B]yo [/B]- after casting on 3 sts you have to use them all , same for this one -K1, yo, k2tog, [B]yo, [/B]don’t end a row with a YO. It’s perfectly fine to have a few rows before the mesh pattern. So begin with CO 3 and knit all sts. Then next row - k2, YO k1, and k1 p2, k1 on the next row. Then you can continue as written… I think.

The rows beginning here - Row: K1, yo, k2tog, [B]k2tog, yo, k2tog [/B]- won’t work you have 2 decs at the end and only 1 YO. Just keep going the same as before.

Now I have a suggestion. Please try one or both of the patterns I linked to in post 6 and I think you’ll find the mesh stitch they produce is the same as what you’re going for. Except for the lacy baktus being in garter, but you can purl the WS rows. These patterns have been made several times and will work; at the very least they will show you how to work the incs and stay in pattern to get what you want.