I need someone to dumb this down for me please. the problem i don’t understand is in bold underline and large PLEASE HELP ME but i will type this whole paragraph. Shape neck: Next Row (RS) Keeping to Strip Pat, work 50 stitches, attatch new skein of yarn, work with seperate skeins of yarn, [B][U][SIZE=3]at each neck edge bind of 3 stitches 2 times, 2 stitches 4 times and 1 stitch 2 times. Work even in stitch pattern until front measures same as back to shoulders. Bind of remaining 34 stitches each side[/SIZE].[/U][/B]
HI, I resized your text so it wasn’t so big and screamy. It makes it hard to read when it’s so large you have to scroll the page.
I’m not sure how often they want you to bind off stitches…does it say to do it on every right side row or something? You do pretty much what it says… start with binding off 3 stitches twice, then 2 stitches 4 times, then 1 stitch twice. If it doesn’t say how often to do it you probably do it every other row. You’re shaping the neck and by gradually decreasing the number of bind offs you’re shaping it. I’m guessing you’re going to be picking up stitches to work the neck opening right?
If you have a link to the pattern it would help a LOT.
It seems like they are trying to condense a whole lot of directions down. This is what I would do:
Knit across 50 stitches and then start a new ball of yarn(Leave the tail hanging). BIND OFF the first three stitches you knit with the new ball and finish the rest of the stitches.
Flip the work. Work back across (always keeping in pattern) the 47 stitches that you did with your new ball. Go back to the first ball and work and bind off (always keeping in pattern) three stitches and then finish the rest of the row in pattern.
Do this again (binding off THREE at the neck edges) on the next 2 rows.
Do this again but bind of TWO stitches at the neck edges for the next 8 rows.
Do this again but bind of ONE stitch at the neck edge for the next 4 rows.
You should have 34 stitches left on each needle at this point.
NOW… continue the pattern until you have the same total length in the front as you had on the back and then bind off all remaining stitches.
I hope this helps. Sometimes when pattern writers sum it all up elegantly, we mere mortals are left in the dust.
I didn’t realize that it would be so large sorry about that but I’ve screamed that loud lol. Here is the link to the pattern and I hope that helps so I can get a definitive dumbed down answer because I am sooooooooooo lost. http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/kfw-cape.html?noImages=0
i cant answer your question directly, but i believe you can contact lion brand with questions about their patterns. at the bottom of the page it says:
We want your project to be a success! If you need help with this or any other Lion Brand pattern, e-mail support is available 7 days per week. Just click here to explain your problem and someone will help you!
The adding of another ball of yarn is to have a ball to work with on each side of the neck. It is not a deep neck line so I would have thought the decreases are worked on each row but only at the neck edge. does this make sense to anybody else.
Seeing the pattern itself, and the missing hunk of instructions from the part causing you a problem, helps heaps.
You have 113 sts on the needle, and you’re on the RS about to start shaping the neck. What you do is work in pattern across 50 sts, drop that yarn and attach a new yarn at that point. Use the new yarn to work 13 stitches (which you then place on a holder… you’ll use them again later when knitting up the neckband) and then keep on using that yarn to work in pattern across the last 50 sts.
So you’ll now have 50 sts on one side (with yarn dangling from that section), 13 sts on a holder, and 50 sts on the other side (these will also have a yarn dangling from them).
These are the two sides you are going to work on, using the separate yarns for each side and keeping them all on the one needle, with the stitches on the holder in the middle, just being ignored for now.
Turn your work (WS) and work in pattern across 50 sts and at the end of that set of 50 stitches, which is where the neck is, bind off the last 3 sts. Drop that yarn.
Pick up the yarn from the other set of 50 sts and bind off 3 sts (ie that’s at the neck edge), then work to the end. So what you have done is bind off 3 sts at the neck edge for each side piece (leaving 47 stitches on each side).
Turn work to RS and work across, again binding off 3 sts at end of the first set of 47 and 3 sts at beginning of the second lot of 47. (44 sts on each side.)
Turn to WS and work across, binding off 2 sts at end of the first set of 44 and 2 sts at beginning of the second lot of 44. (42 sts on each side.)
RS - Repeat the above decrease. (40 sts)
WS - Repeat. (38 sts)
RS - Repeat (36 sts)
Turn to WS and work across, binding off 1 st at end of first set of 36 and 1 st at beginning of second set of 36. (35 sts)
RS - Repeat the above decrease. (34 sts)
No more decreasing. Just work on those 34 sts on each side, in pattern, till front measures same as back, up to the shoulders.
Then bind off the 34 sts on each side.
: Next row (RS) : Keeping to Stripe Pat, work 50 sts, attach new skein of yarn, work center 13 sts and place on holder, work rem 50 sts. Working both sides at the same time with separate skeins of yarn, at each neck edge bind off 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 2 times. Work even in Stripe Pat until front meas same as back to shoulders. Bind off rem 34) sts each side.
. This is what the pattern says leaving the other sizes out.
You left that first part out in what you said above. You were supposed to work 50 stitches and then leave that skein hanging and join a new skein of yarn right there as you begin to knit those next 13 stitches. After you do those 13, slip them to a holder and with the same yarn go ahead and knit the rest of the row (50 more stitches).
Now you are set up to do the two shoulder parts on each side of the center neck stitches that you have saved on the holder. You will work them at the same time. Each side has it’s own skein of yarn attached. You will move from side to side. It is kind of like you were knitting across the whole thing as you were doing before but now you have a gap in the middle of the row. When you get to the gap leave that yarn there and go to the yarn at the other side of the gap that should be waiting for you.
Now the pattern says
at each neck edge bind off 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 2 times
. The neck edge is on the inside of the sweater, right next to the gap on both sides, picture it as it will be worn. You are shaping the part where the person’s head will stick through. You always need to bind off at the beginning of a row, so on one side you will need to bind off on the knit row and on the other side it will be on the purl row. Remember, the decreases will aways be starting at the edge of the gap, so that you are shaping the part that goes around the neck.
bind off 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 2 times
So you will need to do all of that on each side of your neck opening. When it says, “bind off 3 stitches 2 times”, it means when you are at the beginning of a row on the neck edge bind off 3 stitches and then the next time you are at the beginning of a row at the neck edge for that side, bind off 3 again. But you need to do that on each side. Like I said, one time the decreases will be on the knit side, and on the other side of the gap they will be on the purl side.
Then 4 times you are at the neck edge you will bind off 2 stitches and then when you come to the neck edge the next 2 times you will bind off 1 stitch. Do that on each side of the neck. Of course the whole time you do all that you keep the stripe pattern going like it was before.
Now you have all the neck shaping done and you just keep knitting in pattern until the two sides of the neck (the shoulders) are the same length as the back. Then you bind off the remaining 34 stitches you have on each side.
Do you literally flip the work and work backwards?
Not work backwards no. You turn like you normally would at the end of the row and work on the wrong side. It’s just telling you where you should be at that point.
I wrote my long reply last night and by a click of the mouse lost it. My DH found it this morning and that is it above. I had not had a chance to read any other new posts before I wrote that.
Miss Molly and Karina, You can’t bind off at the beginning of a row can you? If so, it is a secret I don’t know. It leaves a gap between the yarn and the stitches you next need to work. If you have a way to do BO at the beg of a row I’d like to learn it. A lot of us have given this some thought and between the bunch of us we’ll figure it out.
Okay now I totally understand. Thank you guys so much for helping me you have no idea how much I appreciate that. this has been driving me crazy and now that I understand it makes perfect sense.
Wow that is a tougth one. I don’t get how you can bind more than once. I can’t follow that myself? I would love to find out how you resolved that one.
You wouldn’t be binding off all the stitches, just a few at the beginning of rows for shaping. You know how when you BO all the sts there’s the looop leftover? When you BO 3 or 4 sts that loop becomes the first st on the row and you work across it.
I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to say you can’t bind off at the beginning of a row, what I was thinking was you can’t bind off at the [U]end[/U] of a row. I swear, wires get crossed in my brain sometimes. LOL
MerigoldinWA I have been thinking about this and you as far as I know are right you bind off stitches every other row at the beginning.
Sorry jcurry if I caused you more confusion than than solution, hope to see photos when you are done.
Thank you guys so much for your patience on trying to figure this out. I went ahead and emailed the company before I got the helpful replies in this message board and you guys helped me more than they did. I did finish the neck and it looks okay again this is my very first project and I shouldn’t have started with a sweater but it’s good to be ambitious I guess. The best thing I did was bind off at the neck edge where it said so when I held it up it made sense by looking at it and instead of skipping the 13 stitches in the middle I put it on a holder and used a third needle for the other side at my mom’s suggestion. Luckily I had a shorter size 8 needle that was originally bought to practice with. It’s funny because now the back is longer than the front because I knitted loose but hopefully that will be fixed while sewing this together. I am now working on the sleeves. My goal is just to get this sweater to be wearable. If it is I’ll be shocked but keep on trucking. That’s the only way to learn. Thank you so much for your fast replies. Please feel free to email me at email@example.com at any time and I will help you as well if I can.
Oh also I went ahead and did the bind off on every row like for exactly bind off 4 stitches 2 times as an example I did that by the neck edge on 2 separate rows and after I did the bind off for a row I continued in the stripe pattern. It was a headache that’s for sure!
Miss Molly and Karina, You can’t bind off at the beginning of a row can you?
I wrote my reply late at night here, and it shows! You can bind off at the beginning of a row, and you also CAN bind off at the end of a row, but at the end of a row makes problems as it means cutting and rejoining the yarn. I’m sure that isn’t what the pattern would want.
I was thinking along the lines of decreasing on every row, but of course the pattern needs her to decrease on alternate rows.