I'd love some help- I'm making my first sweater and running into problems right away!

How-to Questions
1

First of all, thank you to anyone that came here to help me. I have never knitted a sweater before and really want to tackle THIS PATTERN

Forgive my inexperience please. I have never utilized a “pattern” diagram except for in sewing. I am wondering if this is a complete pattern for the sweater or is there something missing? To me it looks like I’m going to be making parts that will be attached somehow. It looks like I am going to start making panel A first. I want to make this sweater in size large.

MY FIRST PROBLEM:
I see nothing about casting on to start but it looks like somehow I’m supposed to just start right with purling 8??? I’ve never made anything without casting on first. Did I miss something? Should I start with casting on 15 and then start with the directions under “Panel Pat A”?

After I finish row 30, which is the last row of Panel Pat A, what am I supposed to do? I see nothing about casting off, or how to end it.

I am sure I will have many more questions but I’ll just start here since I can’t even figure out how I’m supposed to begin without the casting on.

Thank you for your help! :blush:

2

Thanks for including the link for this amazing sweater. It took some looking but I found that the actual pattern starts in the lower half of the right hand column on page 4. The instructions for when to use which panel chart start on the next page.

aran sweater
aran sweater606×748 58.3 KB

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3

Wow, great sweater. It’s a challenging knit.
I see this is your first sweater, so you may be familiar and experienced in knitting other projects, just not sweaters.
I recommend a few things before jumping in.

  1. Check the size you want to wear. This pattern has helpfully given the bust size and the finished item size, be sure to select the right one for you with some ease (space).
  2. Make a gauge swatch of say 30 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette on the larger needles. Wash or block as you would a sweater (check the ball band for washing instructions) and then measure how many stitches and rows are in the centre 10 x 10 cm square.
    The sweater requires this tension to work out the right size:
    t E N S i O N
    14 sts and 18 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] with larger needles in stocking st.
    The stitch gauge is more important than the row gauge. Jot down on your pattern what your tension is with which size needle. If needed make another with a different size needle.
  3. Have plenty of stitch markers or prepare some thin yarn/thread loops to use as markers.
  4. You may need more than one counting device. This could be row counters of various designs or a pen and paper set up. I like to use the barrel shape counters in different colours for different sections and I write on the pattern which colour row counter is for each cable pattern. I have an additional counter for the total number of rows worked so that I can exactly match front and back lengths (it will say a measurement to the armhole for example and I jot down how many total rows that is so my front can be the same as my back. Even the ribbing on the back has a measurement, 7.5 cm, and i would write down how many rows i did for this so i can copy exactly for the front).
    If you look at the row numbers in patterns A, B and C they have 30, 12 and 42. When you begin a pattern for a second repeat you could be on row 1 of pattern A but row 31 of pattern C (and… erm, row 7 of pattern B?) so it can be confusing if you don’t set up a way to count those rows.

You are correct that the sweater is made in pieces but they are bigger pieces than you guessed. A back, a front, 2 sleeves, a cowl neck. You will seam the back and front together and seam the sleeves on and seam the cowl collar on.

The set up rows (just after the ribbing) are often the trickiest bit in a cable sweater but take your time, use markers, and ask questions.
One stitch at a time and you’ll get there.

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4

Welcome to the varied (and often confusing) world of sweater patterns! Some designers will start right off with the cast-on and ribbing and put the instructions for the different panels at the end of the pattern, and some (like this one) will do it the other way around. Things like this are why it’s recommended to read through the whole pattern before starting.

I hope you did a gauge / tension swatch! It would be so sad to knit this lovely sweater with that fantastic cable pattern, and then find out it doesn’t fit! I might even practice the cables with some scrap yarn, just to be sure I understand how they work. Swatching can seem such a bother when you want to dive into the project, but can save you grief in the long run.

It’s a really lovely sweater, and I hope you’ll post pictures at some point along the way!

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5

Thank you so much for looking this over. :smiley:

I have just completed this part of the sweater:

1st row: (RS). K0 (4-8-13). P2. Work 1st row
of Panel Pat A. P2. Work 1st row of Panel Pat
B. P2. Work 1st row of Panel Pat C. P2. Work
1st row of Panel Pat B. P2. Work 1st row of
Panel Pat A. P2. K0 (4-8-13).
2nd row: P0 (4-8-13). K2. Work 2nd row of
Panel Pat A. K2. Work 2nd row of Panel
Pat B. K2. Work 2nd row of Panel Pat C. K2.
Work 2nd row of Panel Pat B. K2. Work 2nd
row of Panel Pat A. K2. P0 (4-8-13).

The directions go on to say:

Last 2 rows form pat. Panel Pats A, B and C
are now in position.

Then it says:

All sizes: Cont in pat, keeping cont of Panel
Pats A, B and C until work from beg
measures 20 ins [51 cm], ending with a WS
row.

I’m not sure what it is telling me to do? I am ready to begin on ROW 3.

ROW 3 on Panel Pattern A shows P7 T4B (slip one backwards, K3 and then P1 with the slipped stitch) P4

ROW 3 on Panel Pattern B shows K8

ROW 3 on Panel Pattern C shows K15 P2 K15

My Row 3 has to be 106 stitches but if I do the above stitches, there are only 55 stitches.

Where are the other 51 stitches?

When I look at Panel Pat A instructions for the 3rd row it says, “P7 T4B P4”

When I look at Panel Pat B instructions for the 3rd row it says, “As 1st and 2nd rows 4 times” but that doesn’t look like what is on the diagram. Is it asking me to K8 P8, K8 P8, K8 P8, K8 P8?

When I look at Panel Pat C instructions for the 3rd row it says, "As 1st row and 1st row says, K15 P2 K15.

If I add all of those up it comes to 111 stitches, not 106.

I’m lost. Can you enlighten me? Thanks so much!

6

Thank you very much for all the helpful suggestions! I’m not sure I understand "
If you look at the row numbers in patterns A, B and C they have 30, 12 and 42. When you begin a pattern for a second repeat you could be on row 1 of pattern A but row 31 of pattern C (and… erm, row 7 of pattern B?) so it can be confusing if you don’t set up a way to count those rows." but I’m going to write stuff down as I go and maybe it will begin to make sense.

I did get the ribbing done and I think I got the set up rows done??? or at least it said, “Last 2 rows form pat. Panel Pats A, B and C are now in position.”

I’m ready to start Row 3 but there is a lot that I am not comprehending. I laid it out in the reply to GrumpyGramma if you wouldn’t mind taking a look because I’m lost now as to what I’m supposed to be doing.

Thank you!

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7

Thank you for your suggestions. I’m really hoping that I can complete this. I’m at a standstill right now and ready to start Row 3 but now I’m confused as I try to understand the instructions in conjunction with the pattern. I explained my confusion above in the reply to GrumpyGramma if you’d care to take a look. I appreciate it!

8

Panels A, B and C have different numbers of rows so you idea of writing these out is a good one. Make a chart or spreadsheet, whatever is easy and in one column list the absolute row numbers 1-100 or whatever it takes. In the second column write the row numbers for pattern A 1-30 repeating 1-30 as many times as it takes. Do the same for pattern B in the third column (rows 1-12 repeated over and over) and in the fourth column for pattern C (rows 1-42 repeated). Then you can check off the rows as you work them and you’ll have a guide to which pattern row you’re on for each panel.

The sts add up. For size L there are:
8+2+15 (A)+2+8 (B)+2+32 ©+2+8 (B)+2+15 (A)+2+8=106

Don’t forget to count the p2 between panels and the repeats of the panels.
This isn’t an easy pattern for a first sweater but it is do-able. Use markers to set off the A, B and C panels and do work from your own chart for the rows. It’ll be worth the extra effort to write out so that you can keep your place in the panels (and your sanity).

9

That’s progress if the set up rows are done.
The bit you mentioned you didn’t understand about number of rows in a pattern. The overall number of rows for your sweater might be 100 or 150 or something else. The decorative cables and patterns (a, b, c) are not written out for 100+ rows or else the pattern would run to many many more pages, so instead pattern writers will detail the pattern for one repeat and when you complete it (say the 30 rows of pattern a) you will begin the pattern at row 1 again. You would really be on row 31 of the entire sweater but only in row 1 of pattern A. This happens with all 3 of the cable patterns. They each run for a different number of rows an will need to be repeated. It will make more sense when you get to it. A chart to track them is a good idea. My preference is row counters. As you go along with the pattern (or future patterns) you might decide you have a preference for one method or another for keeping track. My method changed as I learned more for instance.

Do you have coloured stitch markers you can put on the needle? These are really helpful and I can’t imagine trying to follow a complex pattern without them. As each of your patterns are seperated by a filler stitch (salmonmac mentioned the P2 between patterns, there are the knit stitches beginning and end of row too) you can place coloured markers to ‘enclose’ each set of stitches and where you have a second instance of the patern you can use the same colour, its eeally helpful to see the visual reminder if which set of instructions to use for each part of the row. The markers are a huge help in counting stitches too.

Hopefully the directions salmonmac has given will help you understand the stitch count.

If you’re still stuck just ask again. Or either way let us know how you get on.

10

I am still having problems. I am trying to start Row 3. I wrote out all the stitches on separate papers for A, B and C. For instance: I wrote out each row and next to each row I wrote out the stitches. Problem is that when I add up the stitches for my understanding of how to do Row 3 they come out to
well over 106 stitches which is what it should be for a size L.

The next thing I did was went back to this part in the directions, (below), and substituted Row 3 for everywhere it said 1st row so now it looks like what I wrote below it and labeled “My understanding”.

(From the actual directions)
1st row: (RS). K0 (4-8-13). P2. Work 1st row
of Panel Pat A. P2. Work 1st row of Panel Pat
B. P2. Work 1st row of Panel Pat C. P2. Work
1st row of Panel Pat B. P2. Work 1st row of
Panel Pat A. P2. K0 (4-8-13).

MY UNDERSTANDING on how to proceed with the 3rd row:
3rd row: (RS). K0 (4-8-13). P2. Work 3rd row**
of Panel Pat A. P2. Work 3rd row of Panel Pat
B. P2. Work 3rd row of Panel Pat C. P2. Work
3rd row of Panel Pat B. P2. Work 3rd row of
Panel Pat A. P2. K0 (4-8-13).

Actual Pattern Directions:
2nd row: P0 (4-8-13). K2. Work 2nd row of
Panel Pat A. K2. Work 2nd row of Panel
Pat B. K2. Work 2nd row of Panel Pat C. K2.
Work 2nd row of Panel Pat B. K2. Work 2nd
row of Panel Pat A. K2. P0 (4-8-13).
Last 2 rows form pat. Panel Pats A, B and C
are now in position.

MY UNDERSTANDING on how to proceed with the 4th row: was to replace everything from the 2nd row directions with 4th row:

4th row: P0 (4-8-13). K2. Work 4th row of
Panel Pat A. K2. Work 4th row of Panel
Pat B. K2. Work 4th row of Panel Pat C. K2.
Work 4th row of Panel Pat B. K2. Work 4th
row of Panel Pat A. K2. P0 (4-8-13).

In detail here is what I understood the 3rd row to look like:
K8, P2
(A) P7, T4B, P4
P2
(B) K8, P8, K8, P8
P2
© K15, P2, K15
P2
K8, P8, K8, P8
P2
(A) P7, T4B, P4
P2, K8

Please help me see what I’m doing wrong. Thank you again!

11

Yes, the problem is in Panel B. Panel B consists of 8sts total. Delete the bolded sts and the total is 106.
K8, P2
(A) P7, T4B, P4
P2
(B) K8, P8, K8, P8
P2
( C ) K15, P2, K15
P2
(B) K8, P8, K8, P8
P2
(A) P7, T4B, P4
P2, K8

Markers on either side of the 5 panels will help especially as you begin to knit. I like to write out a table with a column for repeats of the row numbers for the various panels. This helps since they each have a different number of rows in each row repeat.

12

Have you looked ahead to the last pages of the pattern and seen the charts?
If you haven’t followed a knitting pattern before you might be totally new to this sort of chart but sometimes, even if not sure how to use a chart yet, it can help to visualise what each set of pattern instructions is leading towards. It’s more visual. You can see for instance that pattern B never changes from 8 stitches wide. Markers before and after those 8 stitches on the needle will help you see the 8 sts and their position throughout the knitting.

You might even find the charts easier, possibly not right away, they take a bit of getting used to, but comparing the written instruction to the chart may be worth a few minutes consideration. A chart is a smaller, shorthand way of stating all the same information that the pattern words are saying.

13

Adding to what @Creations said: If you’re new to charts, be aware that they are read from bottom to top! I see that the pattern clarifies this, but it seems kind of odd at first.

I prefer to print out the chart and then keep track of rows with either a magnet board or just some post-its, placed ABOVE the row I’m working on so I don’t accidentally work the next row up, and also I can compare to the rows already worked.

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14

Yes, I have looked over all the pages and the charts. I have not really used a chart before although I’ve seen them included. I hadn’t thought about that, so thank you, but yes, I can see that pattern B is always 8 stitches wide.

Here is something that confused me on panel B:

3rd to 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd rows
4 times. (so I thought I had to do K8, P8, K8, P8 because that is 4 times)
(1st row is K8, 2nd row is P8)
So, should I be alternating K8 and P8 so that the 3rd row would include K8, the 4th row would be a P8, 5th row a K8, 6th row a P8 and so on through row 10? Or are those all going to be K8? The 4 times instructive is confusing to me.

Salmonmac said that I had everything right except for this area and she said it should be just K8. And, as you said in panel B there are only 8 stitches so that makes sense but since it says, “as in 1st and 2nd rows” that’s why I want to know if I’m supposed to alternate between the K8 and P8.

I will definitely have to get some markers though. I’ve never used them but will take all of the advice to use them!

Thank you

15

Thank you, I did figure that out after reading but definitely an important thing to know for those of us new to charts!!

I need to print them out. Right now I have them open in different windows but printing out would be much more convenient!

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16

Ah, I see the confusion. The pattern was perhaps overstating the direction. The designer wants you to repeat rows 1 and 2 four times. So for rows 3-10 you would work 1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2. That would be rows 1 and 2 repeated 4 times.
And yes, you’ll be repeating all knits on row 1, all purls on row 2. When you get to row 11 there is the cable cross, C8F which is defined in the stitch glossary.

17

Thank you so much for pointing out the problem! I got confused where it says 3rd to 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd rows
4 times. I still don’t know why it says 4 times.

The instructions say:
3rd to 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd rows
4 times . (so I thought I had to do K8, P8, K8, P8 because that is 4 times)
(1st row is K8, 2nd row is P8)
So, should I be alternating K8 and P8 so that the 3rd row would include K8, the 4th row would be a P8, 5th row a K8, 6th row a P8 and so on through row 10? Or are those all going to be K8? The 4 times instructive is confusing to me.

Thanks again for clarifying it and getting me back to 106 stitches! Very much appreciated!

18

Take a look at my post above (#15)
The reason it says 4 times is that the designer wants you to repeat rows 1 and 2 four times. That’s 8 rows and that matches up to the 8 rows between rows 3 and 10.
row3 knit (as row 1)
row4 purl (as row 2)
row5 knit (as row 1)
row6 purl (as row 2)
row7 knit (as row 1)
row8 purl (as row 2)

19

Markers can be quite fancy and expensive from knitting shops and there can be an urge to buy some pretty ones, which is fine, but not necessary.
This is just an example of low cost markers which are absolutely fine. What’s great in this set is the big variety of colours, which enables colour coding on the needles to link to charts or patterns. I use some I got for free with knitting needles like this (i dont have this many):

I also use his sort, I like that they are thin but they have a pointy end like a safety pin which can sometimes be a nuisance and go through the yarn if you aren’t careful placing them.
Again I don’t have this manybbut they are low cost

My freebie was something like thus variety pack,mtheres a bunch I don’t use in it but the box is great, it is my constant knitting companion

You can also make markers with loops of coloured yarn, embroidery thread. My fav non-removable markers (just plastic circles) are recycled colour bands from my electric toothbrush heads.
You can begin with loops of thread just to get started on your project and change them later.

With regards the k8 P8 rows.
When you work a knit stitch it appears as a purl on the back of the fabric. When you work a purl stitch it appears as a knit stitch on the other side if the fabric. When rows show as all knit on the right side of the fabric (the side we look at the outside) it’s called stockinette and made by knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side (the insdie ir hidden side of the fabric), to produce knits on the right side.
Pattern B is mostly this stockinette knit a row purl a row until you reach a cable cross. Charts show you only the right side of the fabric which is why chart B shows 10 rows of knits (all the wrong side rows will be worked as purls to produce knits on the right side).
Charts look so confusing initially but ultimately they can be a lot clearer than words because you can see what is needed.

By the way. Do you have a cable needle for your project?

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20

Makes perfect sense now…enter face palm and oh duh emoji here lol. Thank you so much!

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