I need help with DPN's

I want to start a sweater and I know what it says to do but I don’t know how to do it without making a mess. Here are the first directions…

Usng 5.5mm dpn cast on 8 st. Place 2 sts. on the 1st needle, 4 sts on the 2nd needle and 2 sts. on the 3rd. needle.

I’ve tried casting them on one needle and “moving” them but made a mess. Then I tried casting them on individually as they call for and that was no easier.:hair: They seem to be twisted and I really cannot tell if they are twisted or not.

I’ve knit socks from the toe UP so I know how to use dpn’s but NOT like this. Please help!!:pray:

Hmm. How are you moving them? I’ve used dpn’s a few times. I’d cast on the 8, then use a free needle to slip 2 sts onto it. Then slid the remaining 6 stitches to the other end of the needle and slip 2 stitches on another free needle. Then just make sure when you start knitting that the stitches are all connected below the needles, and not twisted.

You may be further ahead (and less frustrated!) to cast them on one needle and work them with a second, like regular straight knitting, until you get a few rows in, then join in the round, separate the st as needed and continue from there. You can always go back later and seam up the beginning rows. This will prevent twisting them also. Just remember you are knitting flat, so you will need to convert some rows (i.e., if the original pattern was in stockinette, you will need to do a knit row and purl row until you join in the round).

Thank you both for your help. Krazy I think your idea would be WONDERFUL to do…here is the pattern. AS you can see the beginning is a VERY important part since its right smack center of the back of the sweater. Here is the sweater…


I will try it your way. Thanks so much!!

Hmm, all those YOs…I would definitely consider joining after row 2 though, before you start all those YO at the end of rows.

If I couldn’t join after row 2, I would skootch all my stitches over by 1 from row 3 til I joined, meaning, for row 3, I would K1, yo, K2, yo, repeat to to second to last st and end with a K1; for row 5 I would K2, yo, K3, yo repeat to to second to last st and end with a K1. This keeps the pattern in line by removing 1 knit st from the beginning of the row and adding it to the end - not only will it “enclose” that last YO, but it will be easier to join when you go to seam up those first few rows, and it won’t make any difference once they are joined in the round (you can always move your marker over by one to mark the start of the round once you’ve joined). Remember to do your even rows in purl if you are going back and forth!

I would also think about starting on circs (interchangeables), if I were doing the skootch method - I would use a capped cable on each needle for my back and forth knitting, then when it got long enough I’d join the needles with one cable, join the round together and then continue knitting, now in the round. Then there’s no transferring of stitches to other needles (although not such a big deal if you just knit right onto the new needle).

You don’t YO on that first increase row - it’s kfb. So what can be done is CO 8 sts on one needle, inc in each one (16sts) then divide onto the other needles and join.

ETA: I’m making this one (one of the other variations, actually) and managed to join 8 sts using 2 circs. 'Tweren’t easy, but I dun it…

I saw the YOs don’t start til row 3, Sue, which is why I suggested considering joining after row 2 (although there’s the same st count for rows 1 and 2, there’s a little more “meat” after row 2 to work with). I offered the other suggestion since I didn’t know if Quiltlady might have problems dividing the 16 st, although putting them on 3 DPNs vs. 4 would be easier. Also thought about 2 circs or ML, both of which I think would work.

Sue, are you doing the other Pinwheel on elann, with the crocheted edges? I saw that’s kfb for increases throughout, saved that pattern, too, LOL.

Ehhhh, I’m sorta making up my own as I go along… lol. I’m not doing kfb, but the KLL which makes a line giving the pinwheel effect. I’m not crocheting the edges, too much work, though I like it, but am looking for a nice lacey knit stitch. However, I need one that’s sorta reversible; most lace patterns are all purl on the opposite side and with the collar turned back, won’t look as gooe.

And I look forward to the crochet part! Learned that years ago when I was little, but just taught myself knitting last year, so I still struggle with it. Find crochet much faster and easier, but I like the knitted look for some items, especially wearables.

A picot edge might be nice if you can’t find a knitted lace one that you like.

Last time I crocheted something, the motion really upset my tendonitis. Though it’s a lot better now, I don’t want to aggravate it too much. Besides I like knitting better; I don’t have to pay attention as much and I like how it looks. A picot edge you say… I thought of a lacy rib. I’m going to have to visit the Nicky Epstein books at the library too - they have Over and On the Edge.

I looked through the Knitting On and Over the Edge before I replied the last time, there are quite a few in On the Edge, depends on how open and lacy you want to go, but a thinner yarn than their sample swatches would produce more airy spaces, of course. Over the Edge didn’t have anything really open, unless you wanted to make an I-cord loopy edging.

Tendonitis - yuk! My left hand spastically cramps and literally contorts if I do too much continental, so I know how that goes - I usually stick with English!

I’m fine now working on the sweater. Starting on one needle for the first few rows WORKED. :cheering:Thank you so much for the idea. Now I’ll know for next time.

I’ve got it on regular circular needles now and going strong. So far so good~~:happydance:

Okay, thanks; I’ll stick with On the Edge. Since I’m using worsted weight and size 10.5 needles, it shouldn’t be too airy.

My wrist bones got misaligned due to overy tight arm muscles and tendons. I finally got fed up with it (gradual improvement, but not much) and went to an acupuncturist. The first treatment helped a little, but not a lot, so I went back. For over a week after the 2nd visit, it felt worse. Then I noticed it was better, every day felt better and better. Now the pain is gone, the bones are back where they’re supposed to be, and I just get an occasional twinge when I move my thumb wrong or overwork my wrist. Yay!! :cheering: Sooo much better!

Quiltlady, glad you got it to work. I think I figured out a method similar to what I did on 2 circs. You’d put the stitches on only 2 dpns, take the third and start the increases with it. When you have 6 sts on that needle, take the 4th and put another 6sts on it. Then you should have the 1st one free to finish up the last stitches and then adjust how many you have on each needle at that point.

I have spent this morning trying to figure out how to knit on the dpn’s!

My problem is at the beginning. I cast on 8 as called for and tried moving 4 to another needle and then knitting with a 3rd free one. I am not sure if I should slip the stitches from the top or the bottom. I mean starting from the beginning of the cast on row or at the end.

Is there a way to tell if they are right. It seems that they are immediately twisted when I knit the row either way.

Do I slide the stitches to the bottom for the non-cast on side?

Maybe someone would take pity and do Step 1, 2 3.

Thank you for any help to the dpn-challenged.


Barbara - If you’re new to DPNs, you will probably find starting with only 8 st especially challenging. You may want to work 1 or more rows before you join, as Sue and I said earlier in this thread.

But for the other questions…When you slip your st, you start with the last one worked and go toward the first one cast on for as many as you are slipping. Slip purlwise - you are just transferring you st from one needle to another. You will join the last st knitted with the first st knitted, either by knitting an extra st at the end and then knitting that together with the first cast on st or switching places with the first and last cast on st.

When you join, all your little bumps from the cast on should be in the inside of the circle, all the loops over the needle are facing outward, like this pic from knitty.com:

You can lay them down on a flat surface and check, this is sometimes easier than holding it and trying to see what’s where. Be careful as you work the first couple of rows that it is not twisting as you are working. Once you get a few rows in, this is not an issue.

:thumbsup: Congrats, Quiltlady! Are you using the same colors as the pattern? You’ll have to post some pics on your progress - it’s a great looking sweater.