I hated every stitch of that neckband

#1

I have persevered through 30 rounds of neckband but despised every stitch. I disliked working it SO much that it could well put me off making another sweater with the same pattern or similar construction. Yes, it was that bad.

I have enjoyed the rest of the pattern and I really do like the sweater I’ve made. It would be a shame if I cannot work a similar pattern in the future.
I need advice on how to change working the neck.

The sweater is top down, seamless (mine has seams on the sleeves as I won’t/can’t do them in the round). The neck is worked last. I cannot leave a shoulder seam open to knit the neck flat because there are jot shoulder seams.
Is it possible to pick up stitches around then add a selvedge stitch each end, then knit back and forth on circulars? I know I can’t use a straight needle because of the circumference of the neck, but back and forth on circulars, would that work? Then seam it.

I tried magic loop, hated the ladders, I tried 2 circulars hated the ladders, tried 40cm circulars with short needles and hated it. Eventually turning the neck inside out helped alter the angle if the needles so I could knit a couple of stitches at a time but I still hated very minute of it.
My experiments show on the rib, the first several rounds are quite ugly rib, the rest improved after working inside out but I do dislike what I’ve made. Normally I would rip back something I don’t like the look of but I cannot face a repeat experience so it is staying as it is.

I’d love a solution for future projects. Or do I have to avoid any pattern with this neckband?

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#2

This is very frustrating to go through and even to think about. You have a good solution already in using a circular to knit back and forth. The extra sts will work for the seam.
What was the needle length on the 40cm needles?
What is the pattern you’re were working?

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#3

Good for you for seeing this through. Now you can consider how to make working another easier. I think your only decision after choosing to do the neckband flat is where to start picking up stitches - center back or at a shoulder seam. I can’t use short tips so even a 16" circular is out of question for me. I hardly ‘hold’ the needles, they both rest in my hands and there is no gripping or pinching involved. Short tips don’t allow me to do that and so hand pain sets in. I hold the tip very gently with my thumb and index finger to guide the right needle and my thumb and middle finger gently hold the left and move the stitches toward the tip. I had to watch myself knit and think about what I’m actually doing know. I think we all evolve the way we knit as we knit and don’t necessarily give it much thought.

If you’re interested in ways to cure the laddering problem working in the round, say so. Otherwise I will just respect your choice and leave you to your own device. :wink:

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#4


This pattern but I changed the yarn.

The least worst method I found was the inside out working, this was a 26cm cable and the shorter style needle which are close to 9cm each, so it was really 44cm in total length.
I don’t love the shorter style needle tips, i would actually prefer a longer needle, but I have used them for entire sweaters and got used to them.
The stitches (112 in DK yarn) did not seem too stretched out or too squashed up for the cable length, but should I have had a shorter cable do you think?
It’s the angle of the needles when I knit they are made very uncomfortable by being forced into the circle, my guess is that it would be even more uncomfortable with a shorter cable.

I think it’s my style of knitting which suits a more obtuse angle between the needles.
There are other problems which add to the discomfort too though, dragging stitches around the circular cable every few stitches instead of just knitting, stitches getting stuck at the cable joint because the angle of the cable to needle tip is not straight (tight circumference making almost a kink in the cable) and having to lift and turn the entire sweater every half round so it doesn’t all twist up underneath, it’s heavy for me (with my pain/mobility difficulties), so it adds to the discomfort of the whole process. When I knit back and forth I can leave and entire project in one position, I never need to turn or untwist it.
After all the perseverance it’s a bit of a knock to see the poor tension on the rib, I generally have good tension and rib is neat, the circular has killed it.

So, you think working back and forth on circulars can work with a neck circumference where the stitches cannot be opened out flat? I am imagining the seam opening to be almost like the loop in magic loop, ie allowing more freedom of movement on the needles, allowing angle change between the needles, but that rather than a ladder being made it is a seam I can close up.
I know I "should " just rip this neck out and try it, I can’t bring myself to it.

#5

On this the pick up for the neck is at the back shoulder (European shoulders, the mock cable shoulder detail sits a little lower on the back rather then right up on the shoulder) I would just put the seam in the seam place, it would not be seen at all on the outside. The neck is double with a fold so it would not even be seen on the inside.

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#6

Knitting the neck flat with a seam is very common in bottom up pieced sweaters. That seam usually aligns with a shoulder seam as you are planning. It should work just fine with a longer circular needle.
I haven’t used Flexi-flips for a neckband but I wonder if it might be easier for you. They are expensive but they’re now available from a couple of sources.
Thank you for the pattern link.

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#7

I’ve ripped it out!

I said I wouldn’t but I have.

There were several things I didn’t like, some mentioned already, untidy rib, also the decreases looked ugly, the final straw though was I tried it on and the neck band fitted perfectly for a regular crew neck but this style sweater is not supposed to look like that, it is supposed to be looser, more ease. So I just grit my teeth and ripped out.

Thanks for the help and encouragement, I am now trying the method mentioned with the seam, back and forth and it us a thousand times better already. I’m only 9 rows in but the difference is massive.
It’s a much much easier knit but also my rib looks lovely again. No baggy rib.
In addition, I used the rib I had produced to calculate how many stitches more to use for a wider neck, the pattern says pick up between 104 and 120, I had done 112, but now I’m using 128 (plus 2 selvedge) which I hope will give the wider look like on the design photo. It also meant I eliminated all but 2 decreases which are just on the back section so much less visible.

Feeling much more positive about it.

Thanks agajn

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#8

Thought I’d give an update.
Knitting the neck on 2 circulars allowed for the curve around the neck whilst also letting me knit back and forth. It is SO much better. More fun to work, looks heaps neater.
It’s not mentioned on the pattern but if you plan ahead on this neck the 2x2 rib can align with the mock cable on the shoulders which I have done. There is a transition of course because the stitches are going in opposite directions but despite the transition I feel it runs into the rib quite nicely. I’ve see this sweater with the rib neck not lined up and things like that niggle me.
Well, here is the result, I can’t tell which part of the neck is seamed. This is the back neck and shoulders

20240409_094239
20240409_0942392448×3264 2.31 MB

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#9

what an excellent result - that looks fab :slight_smile:

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#10

Thank you!

#12

That’s a beautiful pattern and beautiful knitting!

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#13

Glad you got this sorted to your liking. If you do knit another similar sweater and want to do the neck in the round, I suggest you might get on better with 5 or even 6 double pointed needles, like you use for socks. I’d never even think to use circulars for something like this, but DPNs make magic happen.

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#14

Thank you for the suggestion of trying dpns. I have never used dpns and don’t have any but at certain times I have wondered if having “more” needle tips would be better for me, in that there would be less strain on the stitches. I do wonder though if I would still get ladders and loose ribbing.
The difference in my ribbing is significant, I’ve done a body of rib in the round and all was well but that is a big diameter where my needle angle can be more natural for me, it’s the small rounds I just can’t do.
And never socks! Not even trying!

#15

If you’ve never used DPNs before, I won’t lie to you; there is a learning curve. I don’t suggest you try the first time on something you’ve already spent a lot of time on. But the next time you just want to do some stash busting with something like hats, you might have a go. When I was learning, back in the days of the dinosaurs, I would knit to within two or three stitches of the end of the needle, then transfer those last few stitches to the to-be-worked stitches on the left needle. I did this for each needle for a while, till I finally learned to control my tension between needles to avoid ladders. I’ve also found using more DPNs for larger projects works better. I’ve used 5 needles for socks for years, and it’s truly a much better fit than using just 4. If I have to work a sleeve or neck in the round, at least 5 needles are in play. Sometimes 6. Just depends on how many stitches I have to deal with. But I will switch to a circ if I’m dealing with as many stitches as a cardigan needs.
Most instructions for learning DPNs, at least back when I learned, was to knit the first few stitches on each needle tighter. But I found that just made the stitches even more wonky. Instead, cross the needles so the two “edges” of the fabric are right beside each other. Then you can tension the first stitch right up against the previous stitch as though the stitches were already on the same needle. It takes a bit of concentration at first, but once you master it, I feel DPNs open up possibilities circs don’t allow for. I hate dealing with all the extra cord when trying to use the magic loop for circs, and using two circs just irritates me no end. So on something small and familiar, like a hat, practice till you get the tension down. Avoiding ladders is all in the tension. Then I think you’ll sail through those tight necks.

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#16

This made me laugh Lihn! I have never made a hat, not a circular one anyway, I made a crazy coloured flat knit one once. Hats are not familiar to me. It seems many people work hats and socks but I do neither, no motivation to either although if I ever do buy dpns I will definitely take your advice to try a hat.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement, I understand what you’re saying about the number of needles, slipping the stitches and avoiding ladders etc. There are many years of knitting ahead so you never know, I could end up being a dpn hat knitter yet!

#17

Creations,
That is so very pretty! You persevered and ended up with a beautiful result; good on you!

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#18

Thank you. It’s a very nice design, I was glad I found that pattern,

#20

That looks beautiful! Way to persevere! You prob wouldn’t have worn it if you didn’t frog the neck. The final result is very neat and gorgeous. Good job!

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#21

Thank you. I have worn it almost nonstop since I finished it!

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#22

Here is a video of the technique I use to eliminate all laddering with Magic Loop. It has worked wonders for me! “Improved Magic Loop Technique” by Phrancko

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