I feel so dumb for asking this, but

I want to make a pair of wristwarmers, and the pattern says after doing the cast on and dividing between 3 dpns, to “Join and place marker”.

I’ve also had these instructions when working on socks…and wonder how in the heck you do it??? It seems when I get to the join between needle 3 and needle 1, the stupid marker just drops off. I don’t know if it’s because the project is so small in diameter and it doesn’t give the silly thing enough room to “settle in” or what. I’ve used markers before and never had a problem, but it was on things that were on circs.

What’s an easy way to solve this annoying problem (or am I just too dumb to be doing this…)?:aww:

Thanks!!!

Don’t feel dumb for asking…how else would you get an answer?

You can either ignore the marker and use the tail of your yarn to tell you where the row(s) begin or you can place the marker before the last stitch on needle 3 or after the first stitch on needle 1.

I hope you 'll post a photo when your wrist warmers are done.

Judy

You don’t have to have the beginning of the round at the beginning of the needle. Join and put the marker on then knit a couple more sts onto that needle. It helps prevent ladders if you shift the sts around the needles every few rounds anyway, but the beg of round will always be at the marker.

I use the tail to mark the beginning of the round.

When I do need to use markers I always put them a couple stitches in not right at the join. Since I always do this I don’t bother noting it, but if you need to you can write that on your pattern.

I understand the moving the stitches to avoid the ladders, but does it ever get confusing when you get to the part where you have to start increasing/decreasing, transferring stitches to another needle for the instep on a sock, etc.? I’m so terrified of losing track of where I’m supposed to be…in fact, I have one sock done and have had to rip out it’s mate 5 times due to screw ups (I need to pick it up and try again, but I just HAD to put it away for a while due to the frustration factor). I tried correcting it, but it’s a lot different frogging sock stitches than it is the ones on a scarf or blanket. They’re so small they ended up slipping further down, and my lifeline also dropped down a row. ARGH!!!

I don’t knit socks, but I don’t think it would matter about the incs, decs, but if you need to put a certain number of sts on only one needle for the instep, then don’t shift them for that portion of the pattern.

I’ve asked dumber questions… a lot. Don’t worry about asking “dumb” questions. Everyone was a n0ob at one point or another!

I’m not sure if this will work for you but; I always cast on one more stitch than I need. Then when it is time to join the stitches together ‘in the round’, I knit the first and last stitch together, then place my marker and start knitting…

You can also stick a paper clip into the appropriate stitch and move it up as you go.

Well, I finally picked the sock back up and got through the heel, picking up the stitches on the side, etc. Now I’ve got a real mess. I did the “moving stitches” to avoid ladders, but when I redivided them to the specs given for each of the 3 needles, the major part of the instep (I think, it’s the part above the semi “V” that comes between working the heel and the rest of the foot) is lopsided. I have more stitches that look like stockinette on one side than the other. ARGH!!! I’m finishing it anyway and giving it to my niece for Christmas, as even though it’s a sock yarn, it looks like it would be awfully thick under shoes so I’m just going to say they’re “keep your feet warm in the winter” socks to wear around the house - not exactly slippers, hopefully enough to keep her toes toasty when she doesn’t want to wear shoes. And, if she doesn’t want to wear them at all, she can always hang it up for Santa, lol!!!