How would I elongate these sweaters?

I like these sweaters, but I am very tall and the entire point of knitting for me is to have sweaters that are long enough for me. How would I make the body of the sweaters longer? Thanks in advance for your responses.

This is the first one. It’s Glampyre’s minisweater:
http://glampyreknits.tripod.com/glampyrephotos/id62.html

The second one is the picture that I’ve attached. It’s from the 2004 issue of Tahki magazine.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

With the Glampyre pattern, just keep knitting until it’s as long as you want. (I replied with more detail to your craftster post). With the Tahki sweater, the same, you knit more inches to the sleeves.

sue

Thank you for the advice. I am worried that the body of the Tahki pattern will be shapeless if I extend it even more. Is there a way to shape it, i.e. adding increases and decreases, so that it will look more shapely? Thanks again for your response.

The Tahki pattern is pretty loose anyway, making it longer won’t make it more shapeless. You’re aware that this is made vertically and the collar is made horizontally?

sue

Thanks for your qoute. I dont understand the bolded portion. Also, which one would be an easier first sweater? I am either going to do one of these or Cosmic Pluto’s top down cardi: http://www.cosmicpluto.com/blog/?page_id=397

I have very little time, so I am leaning towards the ones that I dont have to sew in addition to knit. The only problem is that I only have bulky (UK Chunky) yarn or double-knitting yarn (UK Worsted), so I would have to alter the guage for the Takhi sweater, while I would not have to alter the guage for the others.

The Tahki is a real chunky yarn with large needles, so I don’t understand.

What I meant “vertically and the collar is made horizontally?” is that the fronts are made from the bottom up, it looks like and the collar is made by picking up stitches along the fronts and neck and knitted sideways to the body of the sweater.

I think the top down cardigan would go really fast and it’s a lot easier to do than the Tahki because you won’t have seams to sew up. It’s based on the Boobholder pattern, I think, though most top down sweaters are similar.

sue

Thanks for all of your tips. About the Takhi, it actually calls for extra bulky yarn, while my yarn is a bulky yarn. Hence my concern that it would more work because of the different guages.

Yes, I think that I will start the top down cardigan, as it seems less complicated than the Boobholder. The problem is that I do not understand a lot of her knitting instructions. Can someone explain what she is saying should be done in plain in English.

Well she’s speaking knitting, which is a totally different language. :rofl:

Like what don’t you understand, for instance…?

sue

Well she’s speaking knitting, which is a totally different language. :rofl:

Like what don’t you understand, for instance…?

sue[/quote]

Thanks for your message. I am going have bolded the sections that I do not understand.

DIRECTIONS
NECKBAND
Cast on 83 (87, 91, 95) stitches.

1×1 Ribbing
Row 1: k1, p1, repeat from * to * to end of row, k1.
Row 2: p1, k1, repeat from * to * to end of row, p1.
Repeat these two rows for 1 - 1.5”.

-OR-

Seed Stitch
Row1: k1, p1, repeat from * to * to end of row, k1.
Repeat this row for 1-1.5”.

YOKE
Next row (RS): k 15 (16, 17, 18), pm, k 12 (12, 12, 12), pm, k29 (31, 33, 35), pm, k 12 (12, 12, 12), pm, k 15(16, 17, 18).

Row 2 (WS): k5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

This sets up the cardigan fronts to be edged in garter stitch (the 5 stitches that are knit at the beginning and end of each row). If you wish, you can work these 5 stitches in ribbing or seed stitch.

Row 3 (RS): k to 1 st before marker, kf&b, sl m, kf&b, repeat from * to * three more times. Knit to the end of the round.

If you want buttonholes, work
Buttonhole row 3: k to 1 st before marker, kf&b, sl m, kf&b, repeat from * to * three more times. Knit to last 3 stitches, ssk, yo, k1.

Round 4 (WS): k5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 21(24, 27, 31) times TOTAL, working buttonhole row 3 every 2 inches.

NOW IS THE TIME TO TRY IT ON!
Slip the stitches to scrap yarn and try it on. If the two sleeve markers meet under your arm, you’re good. If you need to add a few more increase rounds or take out a few, do so. End with right side facing for next row.

Next row (RS): knit to first marker, slip stitches between next two markers onto scrap yarn (these are the sleeve stitches), cast on 2 (3, 4, 5) stitches to the right-hand needle, knit to next marker, slip stitches between marker to scrap yarn, cast on 2, (3, 4, 5) stitches to right-hand needle, knit to end of row.

BODY
Continue working in stockinette stitch, creating buttonholes every two inches, until body is 12 (13, 14, 15) from underarm or two inches short of total desired length. Work k1, p1 ribbing or seed stitch for two inches, then bind off in pattern.

Optional side shaping
Side shaping can make the sweater more flattering and generally uses a little less yarn. To work shaping, place a marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches in the previous row (so for the 32” size, cast on 1, pm, cast on 1 in the underarm). These will be the side markers.

Decrease row (RS):
Work as established to 3 stitches before side marker, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk.
Beginning 3” below the underarm, repeat decrease row every 5 rows 4 times.
Try on the sweater as you go; you should be near your natural waist.
Work an inch even, then:

Increase row (RS):
Work to 1 stitch before side marker, m1, k1, sl m, k1, m1.
Repeat increase row every 5 rows 4 times.

Then continue as above, working even to desired length.

SLEEVES (make two, of course!)
Slip sleeve stitches back onto a 16” circular needle or double pointed needles.
Pick up and knit 1 (2, 2, 3) stitches under the arm, place marker, pick up and knit 1 (1, 2, 2) stitches, and join for knitting in the round.

Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit around to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1.

Repeat the decrease round every 5th row 10 times or to desired narrowness.
Knit straight until sleeve is 2” short of desired length, work K1, P1 ribbing (or edging of choice) for two inches and then bind off in pattern. Repeat for other sleeve.
http://www.cosmicpluto.com/blog/?page_id=397

I also am not able to understand how Glampyre is able to achieve the puffy sleeves in her sweater. That is what I love the most about it. The puffiness of the sleeves. Would I have to additional decreases to elongate it? Also, could I knit the sleeves in the round to avoid having to sew up the sleeve or do they need to be sewn up for some reason? Thanks in advance for responses.

She made some increases, then decreases in the middle of the sleeve for the puffiness. You can take that part of her pattern and put them in. To make long sleeves you can knit them longer and you may want to do some decreases to taper them unless you want them a little floppy. They can be knit in the round too.

Now the parts you don’t understand…

Row 3 (RS): k to 1 st before marker, kf&b, sl m, kf&b, repeat from * to * three more times. Knit to the end of the round.

You probably don’t undertand the abbreviations. Look at the Glossary tab at the top of the page here and you’ll see that kf&b is an increase. sl m means to slip the marker from the left needle to the right; it’s there to mark where the increases go.

Next row (RS): knit to first marker, slip stitches between next two markers onto scrap yarn (these are the sleeve stitches), cast on 2 (3, 4, 5) stitches to the right-hand needle, knit to next marker, slip stitches between marker to scrap yarn, cast on 2, (3, 4, 5) stitches to right-hand needle, knit to end of row.

That’s to put the sleeves on either waste yarn or a stitch holder while you work on the rest of the sweater. The cast on stitches for the underarm; use a knit CO or cable or backwards loop.

The rest of it is shaping instructions. If you don’t understand these abbreviations, refer to the Glossary again. They’re all in there, many of them with videos.

sue

You are so helpful. Thank you so much! How would I know when to begin decreasing on Glampyre’s sleeves? It is great to know that they can be knit in the round, as I would like to avoid seaming up at all costs. What would I do, just join the first full row of knitting in the sleeve area?

Okay, you made me go look at the pattern…

Row 15, work increase row as normal, but increase five stitches evenly over both sleeve sections.
Row 16: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 17: work increase row as normal, working sleeve sections as k3 m1, k3 m1, etc. over both sleeves.
Row 18: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 19: repeat last increase row.
Row 20: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 21: resume normal raglan increases.

When you’re doing the whole top part of the sweater, on R 15, 17 and 19, you increase stitches over the sleeve portion. Then when you get to doing the sleeves, you’ll be doing decreases on Rounds 8,10, and 12.

Rounds 8 and 10 (RS): k3 k2tog to end.
Round 9 and all odd rounds (WS): purl
Round 12: k5, k2 tog to end.

After the decs are done, work on the sleeves the same way as the other pattern.

sue