How much bigger will it be on bigger needles?

Okay, so I’m NOT a lazy knitter, refusing to knit a swatch. I’m a desperate knitter with Carpal Tunnel and arthritis who wants to make thisstole, but can’t knit on size 5’s. [SIZE=1](I have a translation in English, but couldn’t figure out how to attach it. PM me and I’ll send it to you) [/SIZE]The smallest my hands tolerate (I hope) is a US 7. I started this on size 5’s and couldn’t knit for a week. So I want to try it on 7 or 8’s, but I don’t want to end up with a blanket. I’m okay with it being a more open gauge cuz I live in Texas, and ya know, it gets hot.

So here are my questions:
[li]The pattern says the final size is 22.5 X 55". Is that small for a stole? Large? About right?[/li][li]How much bigger will it be if I knit on 7’s or 8’s?[/li][li]Should I make it a whole (11 st) repeat smaller?[/li][*]Is there some sort of gauge secret figure-outer that tells you what percentage larger you’ll get with bigger needles? It’s lace, so does that make a difference?[/ol]I’ll knit a swatch if I have to, but since I can’t knit much, I hate to waste my time on an unnecessary swatch if there’s an easy answer.

:inlove: Wow that is very pretty!!

If you do use a lace weight it would make it larger and more open…I would do a gauge swatch and see how wide it would be… the length you can always change by leaving out a few repeats… I have read though that some change the yarn to a worsted and larger needles with nice results…most were surprised that it really wasn’t any larger than what the pattern stated for lace yarn and smaller needles… the worsted weight might be easier on your hands too…:thumbsup:

:teehee: I can’t tell what yarn they want you to use so it may be worsted to start with… but looks like lace :teehee:

Take care of your hands!! :hug:

Thanks Dustina,

It calls for lace weight and that’s what I have. It’s a pretty easy pattern. Mostly knits and with yarn overs and sl1, k1, psso’s. On the chart, the blanks are knit, the u’s are YO’s.

I think probably leaving out 1 of the repeats would work, so you’d CO 88 plus the 6 edge sts. I’ve knit laceweight on 9s and it comes out okay too, if you want to go up another size. That’s pretty, looks like flames.


dustinac really covered it for me :doh:

I’m SO not used to knitting with lace-weight yarn! I decided to knit on 9’s for ease on the hands, so I cast on with 10.5’s. (Pattern said to CO with larger needle.) After two rows, It wasn’t loose enough, so I frogged and started over, CO on 11’s. K 1 row and found I was 1 stitch short! :doh: Went back to the frog pond. :frog: Can’t knit anymore today. Gotta rest the hands. I WILL GET THIS!!!

I want this done for DS’s graduation in May. At this rate, He may need to graduate late.:roflhard:

Which cast on do you use? I did it with a long tail, but very loosely, leaving more space between the sts.

Let me know what you think of row 17 when you get to it; the way it’s charted/written throws off the YO. I changed it and I think it’s going to work out better.

Are you making this, Suzeeq? How did you translate the pattern?

I CO using size 11’s and am knitting on size 9.
I’ve never knit with a chart except color work. What’s wrong with row 17? Is it charted wrong?

Here’s the basic pattern:

[FONT=Arial]Stitch number divisible by 11 plus 6 stitches for border.[/FONT]
K3 rows. Then follow the pattern.

[FONT=Arial]REMEMBER TO K the first and last 3 stitches of each row.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]1. * p1, yo, k7, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]2. On all even rows / wrong side rows, all stitches have to be knit as they appear, meaning knit the knits and purl the purls – and the yarnovers are purled, too.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]3. * p1, k1, yo, k6, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]5. * p1, k2, yo, k5, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]7. * p1, k3, yo, k4, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]9. * p1, k4, yo, k3, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]11. * p1, k5, yo, k2, k2tog, p1*[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]13. p1, k6, yo, k1, k2tog, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]15. p1, k7, yo, k2tog, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]17. p1, sl1 k1 psso, k7, yo, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]19. p1, sl1 k1 psso, k6, yo, k1, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]21. p1, sl1 k1 psso, k5, yo, k2, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]23. *p1, sl1 k1 psso, k4, yo, k3, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]25. *p1, sl1 k1 psso, k3, yo, k4, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]27. *p1, sl1 k1 psso, k2, yo, k5, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]29. *p[/FONT][FONT=Arial]1, sl1 k1 psso, yo, k7, p1 [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]Repeat these until you have 32 repeats.[/FONT]
K3 rows.
BO loosely.

When it says:
[INDENT][FONT=Arial]2. On all even rows / wrong side rows, all stitches have to be knit as they appear, meaning knit the knits and purl the purls – and the yarnovers are purled, too.[/FONT]
[/INDENT][FONT=Arial]does it mean you knit the ones you knit before or do you knit the ones that are loops and purl the V’s?

You knit knits and purl purls on the row you’re working on, forget the last row. So when they look like Vs, knit them, and the ones that look like bumps, purl (and purl the YOs too).

GJ, yes, that’s how I figured it too, the chart is fairly simply to read. It’s just that when you get to row 17, the chart makes the YOs look evenly stacked (a few sts only shown):

O----- (row 17)
–O— etc, but when you knit it according to the chart/pattern, it actually looks like:

O----- (row 17)

On the other rows, you knit the YO from the previous RS row and then yo. But because of the SSK at the beginning of R 17, you knit the YO and one more stitch, then YO. So it throws off shifting the YO over one st by shifting it 2 sts and that doesn’t show on the chart. I wasn’t sure I liked that and did R 17 different, but now I guess it’s just how the pattern goes. I’m trying it out now in some different yarn and maybe it’ll look better. I’m using 7mm with some sport/dk weight yarn. I wanted to use some of the KPs laceweight I just got, but I only got one skein and I think I’d need 2 for this.

WOW! I’m so impressed that you figured out the pattern from the chart! I had help with someone on Ravelry from Germany who helped me translate it. I can email you the whole translation, if you like!

No that’s fine, I got it; I know a bit of german and it was pretty obvious the U was a YO and the < and > left or right leaning decreases. The purl st on the RS got me, but I looked up a post over on craftster. Someone posted translations for knitting terms in 4 languages here -

Hi Suzeeq!
How’s your stole coming along? Mine is VERY SLOW, since I can only knit a couple of rows a day.
I have a couple of questions for you:[ol]
[li]My CO seems a bit tight even though I CO using size 11’s and am knitting on 9’s. Should I frog back and start over? I hate to waste all the knitting I’ve already done. If it ends up too tight when I’m finished, can I put a needle through, remove the CO and then knit on an edge? I DO have a lifeline on row 4, so picking up the stitches wouldn’t be a problem.[/li][li]Do I need to change row 17 or knit according to written instructions?[/li][li]My written instructions seem wrong for row 29 and row 31 is missing. I THINK it should be this: [FONT=Arial][/li]29. *p1, sl1 k1 psso, k1, yo, k6, p1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]31. *p[/FONT][FONT=Arial]1, sl1 k1 psso, yo, k7, p1
Is that right?[/FONT][/ol]THANKS!

I only knitted up a sample to see how it would work following the pattern as directed and the needles and yarn I wanted. I have a couple others I think I want to do (or finish) before I get to it. I dunno what to tell you about the cast on; I used a longtail, but spaced out the sts a bit and even being the same needle size I’m knitting the rest of it on, seems fine. Of course it’s only 7" wide. Maybe experiment with a loose knit cast on or backwards loop just to keep the edge loose.

The written instructions and chart are also here - not just in the pdf. And yep, looks like you’ve got it.

GJ- here is a lace tutorial (the cast on part) from Eunny Jang (of IK)

since your pattern will be on larger needles, i’d probably choose to use a backwards loop cast on or the lace cast on. nice and stretchy with out having to use a larger needle size. HTH

Oh, Jeanius, I SO wish I had seen this BEFORE I cast on and knit a bunch on it. Do you think I could cut off the original cast on and then re-knit and cast OFF loosely? The first three rows are just knit, so it would be easy…:pray:

you probably could, just go slow and be careful to just cut away the cast on row. I knit a picot edge on my dd’s dress, and i could not figure out how to do a crochet cast on (to make it simple to pull off and KTOG) so i just cast on with a different yarn (to see it better) then cut it away and slipped the stitches on a needle as i removed the cast on edge. Probably not a ‘proper’ knitting procedure, but it worked :thumbsup:

I frogged it :waah: and started over using the backward loop cast on. At this rate, it’ll be done in a year or two. Oh well. Better do it right, I guess. I was chicken about finishing the WHOLE THING and THEN having to frog…