Jack sent me a PM to remind/ask me to describe the linked markers I use. These aren’t my invention, but I’ll pass the info on to you.
As you can see from the attached photo I make them with split rings. I either just use my thumbs or a pliers…whatever is handy. Once I make them I tend to keep them as they are and if I need a different number I make a new one. I put beads on the bottom so I know which is the top.
These come in really handy for something that you don’t do every row, but you want to be done on a specific row. Like cabling for instance - if you want to twist the cable every 6 rows you’d use a 6 ring marker. I place the marker in a few stitches on the row so it won’t fall off. I have also placed it on the previous row at the end (1 stitch in).
Each time you come to the marker you pick up the next loop with your right right needle and keep on knitting. If it’s the loop with the bead you know it’s time to do the cable cross (or whatever).
I’ve actually got a linked marker that I’m using right now that is long and has a bead at the end and another midway down because I’m doing two different things that require two different number of stitches. It’s a little trickier to use, but I’ve done this enough it’s pretty easy.
I have been using linked marker since I started knitting. I find them very handy since I have limited knitting time. I may to be able to knit one or two rows/rounds in a day. It may be a couple of days before I can pick up my knitting again. With linked markers it is easy to tell where I am in the pattern.
Increase/decrease every other row calls for a two ring marker. Increase every time the beaded ring is picked up I need to increase/degrease. If I put the piece down for a week, when I pick it up I look at the marker, if the marker on the needle does not have bead, I know the last round/row was a plain knit and the next round/row will be a increase/decrease round/row.
If it is a complicated pattern where one part of the pattern changes every 5 rows and another part of the pattern changes every 7 row, I may use two different markers, one with 5 rings and another with 7 rings.
That’s a really neat idea … I never would have thought of doing that on my own! I think I remember you mentioning this a while back, but I guess the idea didn’t stick since I didn’t have the same use for them when I was starting out as I would now … Thanks for bringing it up again!
You’ve described this before. Being lazy, I’ve done the same thing with the plastic safety pins and put a solid ring marker at the end as the ‘charm’.
and
Not a pretty, but it works.
I have gone as far as buying a pack of your split rings, I see them looking at me everytime I’m digging around for some markers. Next time I want to use this type of row counter, I’m going to open it up!!
I like the split rings because I can get them close to the size of the needle I am using. I find that if the marker is a lot larger than the needle that I get ladders or larger stitches.
You mentioned you use split rings… wouldn’t that be hard to get out of the yarn when you needed to repeat? Split rings are like the ring you have on your keychain… you’re sure they’re not jump rings? Jump rings would be like split rings, only they don’t overlap each other… you would open them with pliers or your finger, then close them. I know this because I do jewelry and maille items… lol… not only a knitter. If you’re having problems finding the correct sizes, you can order online. However, theringlord.com (my favorite place to get them) sells by the ounce. Aluminum is cheap, though… a few dollars per ounce, really. You can also buy wire at the store, if you can find something around 18-22 gauge, then buy a wooden dowel at the correct size, wrap the wire around, then either use a saw with a very thin blade or use wire cutters to cut the coil into jump rings (or even split rings). If you use wire cutters, you end up getting a join area that looks like |< instead of || and it could snag things. Hmm… I think I have pictures…
Alright, I know… I didn’t have a picture of just a jump ring but do you see near the clasp how there’s a few rings you can see nearly the whole thing? They look like an O, with a single wire for the entire thing and it doesn’t overlap at all.
Lol, yeah, I was a little confused… You can buy the jump rings already made at theringlord.com in any color and metal you want, as well as size. Aluminum would work for this, though, and if it’s not the cheapest, it’s very close. Seriously… around three dollars for about five hundred or whatever… it’s a lot when you’re doing something like this. You can make several markers this way. Now, ID is inner diameter and it’s typically in inches, I believe. They cater to use silly people in the USA, who don’t conform to the rest of the world lol… even though they’re Canadian (ringlord is). I suggest the saw cut ones over the others, so you don’t have that pinch on one side. Also, if you buy enough over time (it just keeps accruing) you get a free gift card to buy free stuff with! It’s not a whole lot but hey, it’s better than nothing! I’ve found them to give me exactly what I wanted for the price I saw, shipped in the time mentioned, etc. I’ve never had a problem with them. Also, they keep track of all your orders, even when they’re already sent to you, etc. You can always look things up in your account to see past stuff you’ve bought. You can use past orders to order again (if you want to order the same thing again) set up a wish list, make different lists of stuff to save on the site where you can easily choose one, then check-out and order.
Oh, they also have riveted rings, which are jump rings that have a hinge on the side opposite from the opening… that way, you don’t have to worry about opening them wrong. Normal jump rings, you have to open them so they look like a spiral- you have to pass the ends by each other, basically. If you don’t, you warp the ring and it pretty much becomes useless and ugly. :s
‘Split rings’ are jump rings [I] with a split opening[/I], as opposed to ‘closed jumprings’ which are soldered shut, no opening. I use sterling silver ‘closed jumprings’ to make my own stitch markers because they don’t snag my yarn, ever.
I never use split (open) jumprings for stitch markers, but I will for this project. But I’ll stick with sterling silver. I’ve had real good luck with SS. No tarnishing. Stays satiny smooth, shiny and bright.
I checked on Amazon. They sell sterling silver jump rings, open or closed style. They’re not expensive. I didn’t realizethat Amazon had jump rings of any kind! That’s cool!
For stitch markers they don’t need to be open/split.
After you’ve loaded your beads, etc. onto the SS headpin, the naked end of the headpin goes through the closed jumpring, bent down like a u-turn, then it’s coiled around itself, and excess snipped off.
Can you find that stitch marker photo tutorial I did here at KH a few years ago?
You are a genius and your timing is impeccable! I’m trying a new pattern with a new technique both of which should be simple but for some reason I keep losing my place in a very, very simple cable pattern. This will help me keep track. Thanks!
The key to good tight wraps is twofold: use 3" headpins only, and use SS only.
SS is softer and more malleable, and 3" headpins give you an extra inch to hold on to while working the wrap. These two tips make all the difference when you’re not a pro jewelry maker, which I’m definitely not!
So, I’d say I work best with better materials, and in the end it saves money cuz I don’t trash mis-wrapped stitch markers. I never blow a wrap when I use 3" (SS) headpins. I guess if I made stitch markers every day, or even once a week, I’d have better skills at using 2" headpins. But I’d always use SS! It’s so bright and beautiful, and retains it’s good looks, never discoloring my knitting or hands. It’s worth the extra pennies. But I’m not making stitch markers for profit. Just for me, or as gifts for close friends who are knitters, avid knitters.
Get either half hard or whole hard sterling. It’s nice and strong… doesn’t bend as easily but still easily enough to open and close when you want to. If you’re going to be opening/closing them a lot, I’d suggest half hard. Dead soft is just that… really soft and easy to bend.
I wasn’t trying to flame or anything… was just really confused because of the training I received at an accredited art college… sorry… maybe I should just not post… :s
