Hi there, I need some help with this pattern :)

Pattern Central
1

Hi there,
I am knitting a men’s ribbed full-zip cardigan sweater and this is the first portion of the pattern:

[B]Full-Zip Directions[/B]
Using US 7 needles, CO 22 (226, 244, 276, 290, 308) sts.

[B]Work set-up row (RS):[/B]
S, L, XL, XXXL: P2, K3, P2, K6, work from * to * ; rep to last 7
sts, P2, K3, P2.
M, XXL: P2, K6, work from * to * ; rep to last 2 sts, P2.

At same time, place markers after sts:
S: 54, 58
M: 57, 69
L: 62, 82
XL: 70, 206
XXL: 73, 27
XXXL: 78, 230
Work in rib as established, slipping st st of every row, for 2.5”;
switch to US 8 needles and continue for 12 (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14)”.
End after WS row.

[B]Underarm[/B]
Work in rib to 4 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12) sts before st marker; BO 8(12, 16,
16, 20, 24) sts. Repeat with second marker; work across row.
[B][COLOR=“Red”]Place back sts on holder. Using 2 balls of yarn, Continue to work both
fronts at the same time.[/COLOR][/B]

[B]Armhole decreases[/B]
Decrease st at each armhole edge every row 8 (8, 9, 11 , 11 , 11)
times, then EOR every other row 0 (0, 1, 5, 5, 6) times, keeping
armhole edge st in St st.
Work in rib pattern for 48 (49, 53, 39, 41, 46) rows.

I am knitting a size Medium. I am not quite at the part I don’t understand yet, but the part highlighted in red already has me a bit confused. What does the pattern mean when it says “place back sts on holder”? It didn’t say to use a stitch holder before…and it wasn’t in the list of required materials.

Thanks! :slight_smile:

2

There’s these things called stitch holders that you can get at stores. That’s all it means. It wants you to place those stitches on a holder.
Here’s a stitch holder. :slight_smile:

3

Hi there, thanks for your reply, I know what a stitch holder is and actually already have one…I just don’t get what stitches on the pattern to actually place on the stitch holder. :slight_smile:

4

Sorry, I thought you meant that you didn’t know what a stitch holder was…hmmmmm…do you have a link to the pattern?

5

Hi there its okay :slight_smile:
Um…the pattern is a paid pattern I bought on knitpicks to be downloaded/viewed in the pattern library, so I don’t think there is a link, but try if this works:

https://www.knitpicks.com/cfCart/DownloadPattern.cfm?ID=S7PF8W

Thanks!

6

Your work will be divided into 2 fronts and a back after you BO the underarm sts. Put the sts for the back onto a holder.

7

You will have to use a long loop of yarn as your “stitch holder” since it is the back of a sweater. Use your tapestry needle threaded with yarn to take the loops off the knitting needle, then tie the yarn in a “circle” to hold your stitches while you work on the two fronts.

8

I like to use another circular needle for a holder and then just knit right off it.

9

Omg thank you so much to the all of you! :slight_smile:

10

Okay so I’m now at the armhole area and it says this:

[B]Armhole decreases[/B]
Decrease 1 st at each armhole edge every row 8 (8, 9, 11 , 11 , 11 )
times, then EOR every other row 0 (0, 1 , 5, 5, 6) times, keeping
armhole edge st in St st.
[B][COLOR=“Red”]Work in rib pattern for 48 (49, 53, 39, 41, 46) rows. [/COLOR][/B]

At the same time, work collar.

[B][COLOR=“red”]At row 12 (14, 13, 1 , 4, 8) of straight section, work as follows:[/COLOR][/B]
Left front collar (RS)
Work to last 5 sts. K2tog, PM, K1, M1L, P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 6 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L, K1, P2.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 7 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, K2,
P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 8 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, P1,
K2, P2. Work WS row.

Continue in this manner, decreasing before marker and increasing
and working collar in K2, P2 rib, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows.

Right front collar (RS)
Sl, P1, MR, K1, PM, SSK, work to end. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K1, M1R, K1, SM, SSK, work to end. Work
WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K2, M1R p-wise, K1, SM, SSK, work to end.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: Sl, P1, K2, P1, M1R p-wise, K1, SM, SSK, work to
end. Work WS row.

Continue in this manner, increasing and working collar in K2, P2 rib
before marker and decreasing after, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows

I highlighted the parts I don’t quite understand/have a question about in red.

[B]My Questions:[/B]

My [B]first question[/B] is (first highlighted section)…can I add additional rows to the 49 rows I’m supposed to knit? That is because I found out that my vertical gauge is not the same and it is impossible to get it to the gauge they have of 23 sts= 4" vertically when blocked. Mine is 28 sts vertically - 4". So this means that my 49 rows will be shorter than their 49 rows because the gauge is different. Their 49 rows will be 8.5" while mine will be only 7". So can I add more rows to compensate for the 1.5" difference? If so, I think I might have to alter the sleeve pattern a little too right?

My [B]second question[/B] is (second highlighted section)…what is the “straight” section?

Thanks a bunch!

11

Okay, so I hope my armhole shaping isn’t off either. Each of my row stitches is 0.14 inches and the pattern’s row stitches is 0.17…that is so close per stitch that it is very hard to get it any closer…and the pattern said to “decrease each armhole edge of every row by 1 stitches 8 times” for the armhole…so yeah…that makes it even harder to get any closer.

12

Convert the number of rows to inches based on the pattern’s row gauge, then either knit to the inches or convert that to your row gauge and do that number of rows. You’ll have to do that both for the ‘49 rows’ instructions and at the ‘row 14’ of the straight section which is where you quite doing the decreases and just knit ‘straight up’. And yes, you’ll have to do more rows on the sleeve cap to make the measurements come out right.

Don’t worry about the “decrease each armhole edge of every row by 1 stitches 8 times”, when you dec every row, it’s not as noticeable.

13

Yes to question one. You’ve already figured out the difference in inches so just knit extra rows in pattern to the equivalent length. And yes, you’ll probably have to adjust the row directions for the sleeve but you’ll have the front and back to use as a guide.
For question two, I think the straight section is the pattern rows where you’ve completed the armhole shaping and are knitting in the rib pattern (no shaping). Again, you should figure out where to start the collar shaping based on your row gauge compared to pattern’s. Sounds like a lovely sweater!

14

Yes to question one. You’ve already figured out how many inches more you’ll need so just continue rows until you have the equivalent inches. And yes, you’ll have to alter the number of sleeve rows but you’ll have the front and back as a guide.
As to question two, the straight section is the part after the armhole shaping where you’re knitting “straight” or without shaping. You’ll have to figure out where to start the collar based on the difference in row gauge too.

15

Yes to question one. You’ve already figured out how many more inches to add so that you’ll have the correct length. And yes, you’ll have to adjust the sleeves as well but you’ll also have the front and back as a guide for the sleeves.
The “straight” section is knitting in pattern without shaping. In your case, it’s the rib pattern above the armhole shaping. Again, you’ll need to convert the row to begin the collar shaping based on your row gauge.
You have the idea already that the inches measurement is almost always more important than the row gauge, so good luck with the rest of the pattern!

16

Thanks!

Now what I need to know is…do I count up or down from the straight section…like should I start counting 14 rows from the bottom of the armhole or the top?

Also…how do I “work the straight section”? Do I have to attach a new yarn to the 14th row or something? Pick up the side stitches? I’m pretty confused about how to work the collar as it seems to be missing a “bridge” step.

I’m done with the straight section of the armhole. :slight_smile:
Oddly, now the 49 rows does add up to 8.5"…

EDIT: Omg…I think I know what I did wrong…ugh…the directions are pretty disorganized. I was supposed to incorporate the collar while I was knitting the straight section. Soo uncool, now I have to take my stitches apart >_<…

17

Yes, it’s those pesky “at the same time” instructions that we somehow never read enough ahead to discover in time. I treat every project as a learning experience and try not to make the same mistake again. The least I can do is try for new mistakes!

18

Okay I’m stumped again T_T

[B]Left front collar (RS)[/B]
Work to last 5 sts. K2tog, PM, K1, M1L, P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 6 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L, K1, P2.
Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 7 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, [B][COLOR=“Red”]M1L p-wise[/COLOR][/B], K2,
P2. Work WS row.
Next RS Row: work to last 8 sts. K2tog, SM, K1, M1L p-wise, P1,
K2, P2. Work WS row.

[COLOR=“red”][B]Continue in this manner[/B][/COLOR], decreasing before marker and increasing
and working collar in K2, P2 rib, a total of 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 19)
times: 36 (36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rows.

Questions:
In red, I have highlighted my confusing points.
#1 I’ve only found one video of how to M1L p-wise:
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s319/hoffhaus/Tutorials/?action=view&current=DSCN3630.mp4

Is that correct?

#2: Also, if I do the front (M1L purl-wise) wouldn’t that mean I have to knit the back (WS)? Or should I purl the back?

#3: When it says “continue working in this manner” what does it exactly mean? Should I M1L or M1L purlwise for the subsequent rows?

So confusing…

Thanks!

19

Actually…I think I know the pattern now…the collar is supposed to be in K2 P2 rib…so the M1L and M1L purlwise creates that rib. I just hope I’m doing the M1L purlwise correctly because it looks a little funny to me. Mine looks like a tinier, tighter version of a regular purl stitch, is it supposed to look like that from the front (right side)?

20

Thanks so much for the video! When I started knitting I made up that method of M1 purlwise and always thought it was weird but effective. Yes, it works, just loosen up a bit on the yarn you pull through so it’s not so tight. It should just look like a knitwise M1 from the WS and since it’s part of a rib, it really won’t be so noticable on the RS. The st gets knitted on the WS.

So you can see how the pattern is setting up? It’s just a repeat of the last 4 rows you gave, increasing the number of sts worked before the marker. Do just what you’re doing, watching the pattern develop. You’re answering your own questions!